antiseize on sparkplug threads?

[mbtoloczko]

I was at the auto parts store getting new plugs for my SVX, and the parts guy recommended using antiseize on the plug threads. I've had lots of two stroke motors and VW bugs having Al heads, but have not used antiseize. Has anyone here used antiseize when replacing the spark plugs on their SVX?

[CDG]

I have not used it on my SVX, but I would always recommend it, I don't know of any issues with using anti seize, other than an argument that its a waste of money if you torque them properly.

I say use it, very cheap insurance.

The plugs will not fall out.

I use it , no trouble yet. Just dont get any on the element.

[benebob]

After having a spark plug break in my brat engine I HIGHLY recommend the stuff. I never used it before but with plugs designed to go 100k you're looking at replacing every 5 years at the very least for most people. Trust me its no fun trying to get out a broken plug. The anti seize is what like $2? That's nothing even if it doesn't work.

[svx_commuter]

A Q-tip is useful for appling the anti-seize. Use the Q-tip and then trow it away. With this method, dirt and chips will not contaminate the anti-seize.

I have not used this on the spark plug threads and I can see where it is a good idea. In a winter driving condidtion it may be possible to get some salt into the threads and that could possible cause some corrosion.

What brand of anti-seize do you use? I am using a copper based product good to 2000F

[mattski]

I recently read an opposing point of view which I believe is also promoted on the NGK website. Plug manufacturers coat their threads already and nothing else is required.

Matt

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by mattski
I recently read an opposing point of view which I believe is also promoted on the NGK website. Plug manufacturers coat their threads already and nothing else is required.

Matt

You're right, Matt. I posted an explanation of why anti-seize should not be used as posted by a Subaru Senior Master Tech. I'll try to find the post again, and post the link.

In my 30-odd years of owning cars and changing my own plugs, I have never used anti-seize and I've never lost a plug. But then, that's just my experience.

[benebob]

I heard that too but after my experience 2 weeks ago (drilling out ceramic to get an e-z pull in tehn vacumning out the pieces that fell into the head and praying!) I'd use it if I were leaving a plug in for a long long time. Granted these plugs were probably 7-8 years old and pretty much just fell apart but since I only put about 5k on my car a year now. Even if I change the plugs every 25k that's still 5 years! If it doesn't hurt and gives you piece of mind go for it. Most plugs do tend to have an oily type substance on them when new but I've also gotten some that didn't seem to have it or they were old and the stuff kinda got rubbed off in the box or something.

[mbtoloczko]

Interesting posts! Does anyone has any thoughts on anti-seize forming an insulating layer that would increase plug operating temperature and decrease electrical conductivity?

Cheers,

[kuoh]

I think many cases of siezed plugs are a result of rust or overtorquing. Since our engines are aluminum and the location and coilpack make it very difficult for that area to get wet, I seriously doubt rust would be a problem, unless the engine was submerged in water. Does the Brat have an aluminum engine? As for overtorquing, I don't think anti-sieze will help much there.

From my experience with my SVX and that of several friends, as long as the engine is cold and the plugs were not overtorqued, you should have no problems getting them out.

KuoH

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by benebob
I heard that too but after my experience 2 weeks ago (drilling out ceramic to get an e-z pull in tehn vacumning out the pieces that fell into the head and praying!) I'd use it if I were leaving a plug in for a long long time. Granted these plugs were probably 7-8 years old and pretty much just fell apart but since I only put about 5k on my car a year now. Even if I change the plugs every 25k that's still 5 years! If it doesn't hurt and gives you piece of mind go for it. Most plugs do tend to have an oily type substance on them when new but I've also gotten some that didn't seem to have it or they were old and the stuff kinda got rubbed off in the box or something.

I'm not trying to "preach" anti-anti-seize. I'm just trying to pass on information that was given to me so that people can make an informed decision. Whether a person uses it or not is certainly up to them. I'm just trying to help people make an informed decision.

A correction to my previous post: I did use anti-seize on the plugs in Peugeot, as per factory recommendations, and on One change in my Spitfire. So, I can't really say "Never" used it. In fact, I was a proponent for its use (although not adamant) at one time.

Anyhoo, here's a re-post of the explanation from Danny, a Subaru Senior Master Tech:

Sorry for the long story but I'm trying to save y'all some frustration. Concerning lubricants and anti-seizing compounds being applied to sparkplug threads.... If you go to NGK's website, somewhere in the FAQ's you will find their statement as to why they don't recommend anything on the threads. I don't recall it well enough to repeat it. Subaru does not recommend it because we have attributed misfire codes in the 2.5l motors, and had misfires in the 3.3l motor due to high resistance at the spark plug threads.
I don't currently endorse it, but at one time I did. When I started in this business 22 years ago (can that be possible?? I'm not that old!!!)The old guys that I worked with used neverseize to slather their spark plugs. Especially when aluminum headed motors became popular. I of course followed suit. Having been taught that not coating a steel spark plug in an aluminum head would mean the end of the free world. I religiously followed this procedure until 1990 when I went to work for my first Subaru dealer. Everyone in the subie shop followed the same notion. Except 1 guy who swore by atf on the threads. Anyway, as the turbo loyales got older we started having problems getting the spark plugs out. But we didn't see the same problem on the 1.8l mpfi xt. Even though it uses the same heads. Same plugs. Less heat, no turbo. Then I noticed that all these plugs that we had slathered in never-seize or atf had a brown sticky residue on the threads of the plugs ( on the turbo's, not the n.a.'s). I suspected that the compounds were "coking up". And contacted NGK. Eventually a rep from NGK showed up, Looked at my enormous collection of Spark plugs, some sticky, some not. He shook is head. And said," Do you have any idea how much money we spend in research every year?" I told him that I did not. "We roll the threads and apply a coating, there is no further attention needed. Quit putting never-seize on and your troubles will be over." I was skeptical but tried it. Over the next few years I was the only one in the shop not using a coating, and I was the only one in the shop that was not repairing spark plug holes or replacing cylinder heads on cars that I had previously tuned. Then the svx came out. We had some misfire problems after the first plug changes, not common, but it would happen. Subaru tracked the problem down to never-seize in most cases. On a side note, about half the old timers in my shop still wont buy it and believe they need to slather those plugs. And they do a lot of thread repair because of it. You can lead a horse to water......
danny

[benebob]

Very interested Randy. I'll have to look at those plugs I pulled out of my brat when I get home. They had some brown crap on them but at the time I just kinda attributed it to rust dust from the tops. I wouldn't expect that a brat engine would heat up more than an normal EA82 engine though.

[Earthworm]

If you do use the stuff just use a little bit and keep the stuff far away from the electrodes.