Front end clatter diagnosis

[kuoh]

Probably not better, but certainly cheaper. And as for the possibility of them ruining the coilpacks, mine have been in for over a year and I haven't had any ignition problems.

KuoH

Originally posted by Boone The +4's are good but don't seem to be better than OEM. [/B]

[Earthworm]

Perhaps when they were fiddling with the spark plugs they cracked one of the boots?

OFF TOPIC


I have seen two instances in which plug replacement was immediately followed by coil pack failure. Both times it was the pack closest to the driver's feet. In the first case I did not look closely at it. The second time, however, I did a post mortem dissection and discovered that the tech must have pulled on the wire to get the assembly out. The wire is fragile, and it doesn't take much to damage it.

Upon presentation of the "evidence," the tech acknowledged what he had done, and (to my everlasting pleasure) the shop picked up the tab.

My #2 is the victim this time the first was the drivers side, closest to driver. That one went on it's own I believe. Funny though... When he called me with the diagnosis, they said if I buy the part they would pick up the labor..Hmmm, someone feeling guilty about something. I thought, big deal, It looks like the equivalent of putting on a regular spark plug boot w/the exception of a bolt. Am I close?...Anyway that was their deduction on my font end noise. I'll start something else on the coil packs.

[vkykam]

SVX_Commuter,

Can you describe the noise when the torsion bar bushing was kaput? Was it a metallic high-pitch clinking noise or more of a lower thud thud noise?

VK

Originally posted by svx_commuter
The stiffer strut mount didn't help on my car. I traced the problem to the front rubber bushing that holds the torsion bar. The noise comes from the top of the strut tower when the bar breaks free in the bushing. If you hear the nosie when you push up and down on the car bumper you should be able to find the source.

I got a different noise now that is from play in the rack (I think anywat too much play in the steering wheel) and I hope to do that adjustment tomorrow. I made this thing to loosen the lock nut on the steering box.

hmm... good arrow. (vkm)

[vkykam]

Shamelessly stolen, of course.

VK

Originally posted by Boone
hmm... good arrow. (vkm)

[svx_commuter]

Originally posted by vkykam
SVX_Commuter,

Can you describe the noise when the torsion bar bushing was kaput? Was it a metallic high-pitch clinking noise or more of a lower thud thud noise?

VK

It is a lower thud thunk noise and it happens with good bushings that squeeze the heck into the bar.

That describes my problem perfectly!

Some candidates are:

Missing brake pad shims
But it happens when the wheel moves vertically at low speed, and not when it's twisted

Calipers
They're tight

Upper strut mount
Some report that didn't help; noise persisted

Rod ends
Couldn't find anything loose

Strut itself
Good but money-hungry alignment shop says they're fine

Bushings
Thud-thunk!

So... what can confirm the diagnosis, and then how do we fix it?

[vkykam]

Crud.

I'm still trying to troubleshoot a high-pitch clinking noise over small bumps at low speeds... Oh well.

Thx anyways.

VK

Originally posted by svx_commuter


It is a lower thud thunk noise and it happens with good bushings that squeeze the heck into the bar.

Ummm, what does this mean?

Before putting the car on the rack we spent some time in an empty but bumpy parking lot, to localize the sound. It is definitely front left - no doubt about it. noise from front right is at most slight, and there's nothing from the rear end. The noise can be generated at anything from 5-15 mph, by rolling over any irregularity in the surface 1/2" high. Over 15-20mph it simply doesn't happen. With brake applied slightly, it doesn't happen.

However, we thought this would be easy because we could compare the "good" side with the "bad" side.

So...

My son and I put the car on a rack and very carefully checked EVERYTHING possible, comparing L to R. Using a long crowbar, we applied various sorts of stress and pressure to all components, checking play of bushings and rod ends. Nothing interesting! We then used appropriate tools to check tightness of every single bolt in the LF assembly. We looked carefully for any faulty weld or crack or broken bushing. We also shook and stressed everything in sight, on both sides.

Nothing. Nada. Zip. Shum duvar. Rien. Betoti.

I drove it from the rack onto the parking lot at 5mph, and as I rolled over a 1" bump I heard bang-bang again - like the car was thumbing its nose at me.

Now what?

[Paisan]

I had a similar knocking noise, almost like tapping an inflated tire. Turns out when they put it up the inner tie rod ends were shot and my endlinks for the front sway bar were shot. So I'm gonna order those parts and have em done and take it from there.

-mike

What -- am I going blind?

I did not see a sway bar!!!! My intuition said the noise was consistent with sway bar bushings, but when I searched there was nothing to find.

Or ???

[svx_commuter]

Okay I have a coouple of things here to talk about.

Henry, The front sway bar goes thru the subframe. It is attached with link ends to the struts. I hope you find it. You were kid'g of course? Or your car doesn't have one?

I had a lot of play in the steering wheel. The limit is set a .67" freeplay in the steering wheel and mine had worked it's way up to .75". I remember that I had no free play when I got the car and it has slowly been working its way up. Well I finally got to adjust it this weekend and a lot of the front end noise volume went down. So check your steering wheel free play for that item.

The other item is the front sway bar. I have noticed that mine keep sliding toward the driver side. The bend in the bar was working its way into the passenger side bushing. I have also noticed that the front end noise was less after pushing the bar toward the passenger side. So...... I put a hose clap on the bar on the passenger side to keep it out of the bushing. (I'll try that for awhile and it would be nice to have a washer or something like a split clamp ring to put on it instead of the hose clamp.)

It is a lot better than it was. I still have some noise but I can live with that. I am going to think it the rack valve Beav has been talking about. It's great to have the tight steering back again.