Painted alternator

[svxcess]

Depending on the vehicle applications and loads, at engine idle speeds of 650-800 RPM, the alternator current (amperage) output of our 95A alternator can be as low as 35% of the full-rated output.

This gives about 33A at idle and the rest at about 3000rpm.


The 160AHigh output alternator incorporates finer wire in their windings and is constructed for low-speed performance. These units produce about 55% of their max at idle.

This gives about 88A at idle if needed and the rest by around 1800rpm. this is more in the range that we need it.

.

[longassname]

sure sounds good...I don't know enough to have an educated opinion on it but if it's true it's definitely more along the lines of what we need.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by longassname

sure sounds good...I don't know enough to have an educated opinion on it but if it's true it's definitely more along the lines of what we need.

I agree totally.

Using the stock 95A alternator, I have turned on every possible accessory and system simultaneously. I think there is a total combined current draw of about 50-60A. A typical winter scenario: Idling in a snowstorm

Climate control
rear window defroster
Heated mirrors
stereo
headlights and fog lights
wipers front and rear
brake lights and/ or flashers

At idle, a vehicle's electrical loads may exceed the low-speed current (amperage) output (33V) of our stock alternator and when this happens the shortfall comes from the battery. This results in a drop in the electrical system voltage as the battery delivers the additional electrical current to meet the demand.

This was with the alternator wiring upgrade. the stock wiring configuration would be harder on the alternator charging system due to increased resistance of old and corroded wiring.


With the high-output unit, the 50A+ load could still be present at idle, and easily supplied by the HO unit (88A) alone without any help needed from the battery. Alternator doesn't have to work as hard = less heat generated = longer life.


In the original circuit design, the stock 95A alternator MAY have been adequate when new with good wiring, clean grounds and connections. Adding 17 years of heat and corrosion to the wires, faulty grounds, increased loads like aftermarket stereos and the like and problems start to arise. That is how the original alternator wiring upgrade came into being-- helping overcome deficiencies of the present wiring.

To date my electrical system has never run better! I have had no abnormalities, odd symptoms or a runaway alternator trying to turn my polo into a rolling marshmallow roast.

A side note: Measuring your system voltage with a voltmeter plugged into your cigarette lighter will give you false readings. The heat generated through that circuit cause the wires to corrode and have increased resistance over time. This makes your reading about 0.5V lower than it actually is.

I measured the voltage drop many times. With the engine running, I plugged my voltmeter into the cigarette lighter and then to another lighter receptacle, attached to battery clamps and connected at the battery.

The voltage measured at the battery connection was higher.


For more information, go back to my post on ALTERNATOR 101

.