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  #1  
Old 11-27-2007, 05:56 PM
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Making My Own Clear Headlights from Lexan

Since the smallcar clear headlight kit is so expnsive I've decided to attempt my own clear lenses. I bought a sheet of Lexan to try and use. I haven't finished the first "lense" yet, but it didn't take long to do what I did so far. I'm going to make them shaped as similar as I can so installing them will be very similar to smallcar's.

I'm using an existing headlight as the mold and just temporarily attaching the lexan to it so I can use it as a mold.

First I cut a piece to the approximate size of the headlight face.

I'm heating it up by holding the face of the headlight over top of my electric stove on HIGH. It was so hot that it started to melt my oven mitts

This is where I screwed up. To keep the Lexan on I used double sided tape. Big mistake, I should've known it would melt once it got hot. I'm just gonna finish up this first test piece with the double sided tape, but I will have to find out something else to use next time.

Anyway, the lexan molded pretty well to the top to bottom and left to right contour of the headlight. There's one spot though, where I held it too close to the burner and it started to bubble and warp. A mistake I know not to do next time, also not to rush.

When I was doing the top lip, I just heated the whole length of the top side of the lexan. Once it was soft enough I just molded it to the shape of the top part of the headlight. Making sure I held it in place so it didn't spring back to its normal, flat shape.

Here's 2 pics of what I have so far.

If I finish these the way I like it, I may make a few extra sets to sell if anybody would be interested. I would sell them at a MUCH lower price than smallcar. Or if anybody would want them installed you can send me your headlights and I can make them and fit them at the same time. This would be another discussion for another time though. Just thought I would throw the idea out there.


Please give me any feedback, positive and/or negative about this people!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg cut lexan.JPG (690.3 KB, 472 views)
File Type: jpg 1stbatchpartiallymolded.JPG (686.7 KB, 478 views)
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  #2  
Old 11-27-2007, 06:23 PM
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I would be interested in a set. If you can do this well and sell it for less than small car I think you be able to sell quite a few.
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  #3  
Old 11-27-2007, 06:34 PM
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I'm not too sure on the price right now, but it will definately be less than half of what small car is.

I just got finished molding the bottom lip and one side lip. Now that I have a little more experience with timing how long to heat the lexan it's getting easier to mold it.

I think I'm gonna make another "test" piece before I make my personal set, then I will start making sets to sell.


Everything would be so much easier if I only had a heat gun. It would save me from sweating like a slave too
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:39 PM
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Instead of using the stove & risking a nice little fire. You MIGHT try a good heat gun.
Lexan that thin can be molded at around 200deg. Cut the lexan about 2" larger than you need. Build a 2pc frame 1" wide that just slides over the mold with a gap equal to the thicknes of the lexan. Make sure you can trap the lexan between the frame's halves solidly. Thumbscrews work good for this. Heat the lexan until it JUST starts to sag. Then pull it over the mold. Hold it there until it cools. Pull the lexan out of the frame, trim as needed, then install with clear 5min epoxy. This is a cheapskate's vacuum former.
If I were a betting man I'd wager that the smallcar kit is vacuformed.
If you get this working, you could step up to polycarbonate. It'd cost more for the materials, but it works at slightly higher temps, and would provide a product that surpasses OEM.

In lieu of a heat gun, you could suspend the frame in the oven @ 200deg until the lexan sags
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:44 PM
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Good on ya man!!! Keep up the good work!! I hope to see something that looks as good, if not better than the Smallcar kit... I got ripped off enough by smallcar, so the last thing I want to do is give them more money...

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Old 11-27-2007, 06:47 PM
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Lexan is polycarbonate last time I checked.
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:48 PM
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I'd be down for a set, if and when you start cranking 'em out.
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyhorse View Post
Instead of using the stove & risking a nice little fire. You MIGHT try a good heat gun.

I really wish I had one of those right now

Lexan that thin can be molded at around 200deg.

The lexan I bought is .093" thick, it was the thinnest Home Depot had when I went today.

Cut the lexan about 2" larger than you need.

That's about what I did. I had at least a 1" overhang on every side that I could work with to mold it. I think next time though I'll do at least a 2" overhang on every side.

Build a 2pc frame 1" wide that just slides over the mold with a gap equal to the thicknes of the lexan. Make sure you can trap the lexan between the frame's halves solidly. Thumbscrews work good for this. Heat the lexan until it JUST starts to sag. Then pull it over the mold. Hold it there until it cools.

I kind of have an idea of what you mean but can you elaborate more on it?


Pull the lexan out of the frame, trim as needed, then install with clear 5min epoxy. This is a cheapskate's vacuum former.

Is that how you would install the final product? If so, the way I'm doing will be to cut the face of the headlight off just like smallcar has you do.


In lieu of a heat gun, you could suspend the frame in the oven @ 200deg until the lexan sags

That's the general idea of how I'm doing it now. Just a more open area so the heat disipates quicker.

the message i entered is now long enough
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Old 11-27-2007, 06:51 PM
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wow...it could actually work. can't wait to see the finished product
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Old 11-27-2007, 07:04 PM
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Here's a couple more pics.

Mostly of the bottom and one side that I got finished.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg one side (1).JPG (658.1 KB, 391 views)
File Type: jpg one side.JPG (663.2 KB, 332 views)
File Type: jpg bottom1.JPG (649.0 KB, 332 views)
File Type: jpg bottom.JPG (664.7 KB, 323 views)
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Old 11-27-2007, 07:05 PM
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For the frame think picture frame with a handle. Cut it from some 1/8" luan (plywood) make 2 squarish frames that are close to the size & shape of the light assy. leave a "handle" on one. Drill holes so you can bolt them together with the lexan between them. This gives your hands a break from the heat.

A quick search on vacuum forming will net you ALL KINDS of ideas.
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Old 11-27-2007, 07:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyhorse View Post
For the frame think picture frame with a handle. Cut it from some 1/8" luan (plywood) make 2 squarish frames that are close to the size & shape of the light assy. leave a "handle" on one. Drill holes so you can bolt them together with the lexan between them. This gives your hands a break from the heat.

A quick search on vacuum forming will net you ALL KINDS of ideas.

oooo ok, I understand now. That is a good idea.

I was even starting to use linesmans pliers to push and hold down the lexan while it cooled.
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Old 11-27-2007, 07:14 PM
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Lexan is STRONG stuff...

But. When talking thermodynamics, thickness is more important than that. I'm sure you've noticed many imperfections thus far, I can see quite a few in the pictures.

I would consider upping the thickness, with the premise that it would cause the area you wish to remain "flat" or un-changed (the face of the lens) more resilient to change. This would cause more heat to be used, but as such, you should be able to be a little more... careful? Accurate?

Just a thought. It seems really thin to me, I could see attaching it to be an issue also, with epoxy running all over the place and making a mess. I would have done this sort of thing a long time ago if I could get my hands on an extra set of headlights... Then I would work on the angel eyes too. However, I don't, so good luck!
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Old 11-27-2007, 09:50 PM
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The thickness is listed on the plastic as .093", but looking at it, it seems to be about 1/8" thick.


I think the next test piece I'm going to hold a piece of Lexan with a pair of pliers on each end, longwise. Turn the oven on to about 300 degrees F. Wait til it heats up and just hold the Lexan in it until it gets hot enough and is floppy. Then I will just lay it on the face of the headlight and let it contort to the surface of the headlight, and mold the top, bottom, and sides to the headlight.
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Old 11-27-2007, 10:12 PM
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I remember a member named "museumquality" doing his own clears WAY before the SmallCar kit. If you search around you might be able to find some info that'll help you on your quest.
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