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#16
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Victor (alltrac), good point, when i have changed the pads i simply forced the brake pistons back in WITHOUT opening the bleeder valve, this of course could cause damage correct? The only disadvantage of opening the valve of course would be that now i have to bleed the brakes....
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#17
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Bendix brake article
When a caliper piston is pushed in, brake fluid gets forced backward, up into the system. Since the caliper is the lowest point in the system, dirt and corrosion naturally accumulate in this area. When grime and dirt find their way into the HCU portion of the ABS system, both can cause valves to stick, which leads to a vehicle pulling one way or another; accumulators to stick open, which leads to low pedal; compensator ports to plug, which leads to dragging brakes; and of course, it can make the ABS light come on leading to all of the above. If installers get in the habit of opening the bleeder when they compress the caliper piston, as well as selling customers a brake fluid flush, these problems will more than likely not occur
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Victor |
#18
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Open the bleed as little as possible, only while a pistons is being pushed backwards, and then immediately close it.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#19
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those sliders function with a veyr limited amount of play... Did it really make sense to use a BFH on the MOST vital part of any car... the brakes??? As Jason did at reading, they should be worked out by rotating them up and down until the slider is able to come loose and the caliper can be slid off on its own.... "Beating" them with a hammer will only bend and disform the caliper pins and result in future failure and premature wear.
Tom |
#20
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#21
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then why use the word "beat" usually one would insinuate a tapping with the word tap and beating, with the word beat... Anyway, i hope to god you are not doing this on customers cars
Tom |
#22
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You really should get a set of caliper rebuild kits, disassemble them, and properly rebuild them.
If the brake fluid is changed properly on a regular basis, you shouldn't have to do it again. It may seem to be a lot of hassle, but working brakes aren't optional. |
#23
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#24
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#25
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If you considered it ok to do on your own vehicle why would that stop you on someone elses? What other route would you have taken outside of beating the calipers off with a hammer Tom |
#26
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#27
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If a caliper pin is seizing up then the boots should also be inspected/replaced. They may not be sealing or may have a hole allowing grease to escape or water to get in.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#28
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Re: Bendix brake article
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#29
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Re: Brake problem
How easily did the caliper pistons move back in? Did you use a tool, or just pry the caliper open with a screw driver?
As for the bleeders, I agree that it's the best way to do the job, but I know mechanics who have never done it (for whatever reason) and haven't recieved any complaints. I didn't open the bleeders when I did my brake because I don't think they'll move without snapping, and no problems with the brakes since. I should really look into that further and see if a little liquid wrench will get them moving. The nice, bright, acetylene powered kind of liquid wrench...
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#30
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Re: Brake problem
I used a c-clamp and a block of wood, not too hard. Just to test each caliper I openned the caliper, placed a bock of wood inside and then stepped on the brake. I pushed on one by hand - level went up in the resivour, then the same with the other and the level went up slightly and the other caliper came out slightly. Doing this should prove that the caliper seal / ring in good, don't you think?
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