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  #16  
Old 05-14-2007, 08:20 AM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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Victor (alltrac), good point, when i have changed the pads i simply forced the brake pistons back in WITHOUT opening the bleeder valve, this of course could cause damage correct? The only disadvantage of opening the valve of course would be that now i have to bleed the brakes....
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  #17  
Old 05-14-2007, 05:26 PM
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Bendix brake article

When a caliper piston is pushed in, brake fluid gets forced backward, up into the system. Since the caliper is the lowest point in the system, dirt and corrosion naturally accumulate in this area. When grime and dirt find their way into the HCU portion of the ABS system, both can cause valves to stick, which leads to a vehicle pulling one way or another; accumulators to stick open, which leads to low pedal; compensator ports to plug, which leads to dragging brakes; and of course, it can make the ABS light come on leading to all of the above. If installers get in the habit of opening the bleeder when they compress the caliper piston, as well as selling customers a brake fluid flush, these problems will more than likely not occur
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  #18  
Old 05-14-2007, 05:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001
Victor (alltrac), good point, when i have changed the pads i simply forced the brake pistons back in WITHOUT opening the bleeder valve, this of course could cause damage correct? The only disadvantage of opening the valve of course would be that now i have to bleed the brakes....
The brakes should not require bleeding, provided that the a piston is not allowed to travel outwards while the bleed is open. If this did occur, air would become drawn into the piston.

Open the bleed as little as possible, only while a pistons is being pushed backwards, and then immediately close it.
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  #19  
Old 05-16-2007, 01:39 PM
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those sliders function with a veyr limited amount of play... Did it really make sense to use a BFH on the MOST vital part of any car... the brakes??? As Jason did at reading, they should be worked out by rotating them up and down until the slider is able to come loose and the caliper can be slid off on its own.... "Beating" them with a hammer will only bend and disform the caliper pins and result in future failure and premature wear.

Tom
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  #20  
Old 05-16-2007, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX
those sliders function with a veyr limited amount of play... Did it really make sense to use a BFH on the MOST vital part of any car... the brakes??? As Jason did at reading, they should be worked out by rotating them up and down until the slider is able to come loose and the caliper can be slid off on its own.... "Beating" them with a hammer will only bend and disform the caliper pins and result in future failure and premature wear.

Tom
I didn't use a huge hammer and I didn't use alot of force. I guess I should have stated that, But I was in a hurry when I wrote it. The brakes are still great, Next the dust shields are coming off because I'm tired of them rubbing sometimes and they are quite rusty of course.
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  #21  
Old 05-16-2007, 02:14 PM
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then why use the word "beat" usually one would insinuate a tapping with the word tap and beating, with the word beat... Anyway, i hope to god you are not doing this on customers cars

Tom
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  #22  
Old 05-16-2007, 02:24 PM
kbarrett kbarrett is offline
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You really should get a set of caliper rebuild kits, disassemble them, and properly rebuild them.

If the brake fluid is changed properly on a regular basis, you shouldn't have to do it again.

It may seem to be a lot of hassle, but working brakes aren't optional.
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  #23  
Old 05-16-2007, 02:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX
then why use the word "beat" usually one would insinuate a tapping with the word tap and beating, with the word beat... Anyway, i hope to god you are not doing this on customers cars

Tom
Hahaha, No. I abuse my own vehicle, Not my customers.
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  #24  
Old 05-16-2007, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbarrett
You really should get a set of caliper rebuild kits, disassemble them, and properly rebuild them.

If the brake fluid is changed properly on a regular basis, you shouldn't have to do it again.

It may seem to be a lot of hassle, but working brakes aren't optional.
I'll do a rebuild down the road, But right now they are working perfect and I don't have any funds to do alot at the moment to my own vehicles.
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  #25  
Old 05-17-2007, 05:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Budfreak
Hahaha, No. I abuse my own vehicle, Not my customers.

If you considered it ok to do on your own vehicle why would that stop you on someone elses? What other route would you have taken outside of beating the calipers off with a hammer

Tom
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  #26  
Old 05-17-2007, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX
If you considered it ok to do on your own vehicle why would that stop you on someone elses? What other route would you have taken outside of beating the calipers off with a hammer

Tom
What's to stop me is the fact I offer a warranty on my work and don't want to do it a second time for free. My car is no big deal, If it breaks, I'll fix it. I didn't have to beat the calipers off, I simply had to break the slider pin loose in order to get some lube on it and get it functioning. The other route I'd take is to use a piece of wood when smacking the sliders, I just didn't have a piece handy when I did mine and it needed fixed at that moment.
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  #27  
Old 06-12-2007, 03:04 PM
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If a caliper pin is seizing up then the boots should also be inspected/replaced. They may not be sealing or may have a hole allowing grease to escape or water to get in.
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  #28  
Old 07-02-2008, 07:56 PM
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Angry Re: Bendix brake article

Quote:
Originally Posted by alltrac View Post
When a caliper piston is pushed in, brake fluid gets forced backward, up into the system. Since the caliper is the lowest point in the system, dirt and corrosion naturally accumulate in this area. When grime and dirt find their way into the HCU portion of the ABS system, both can cause valves to stick, which leads to a vehicle pulling one way or another; accumulators to stick open, which leads to low pedal; compensator ports to plug, which leads to dragging brakes; and of course, it can make the ABS light come on leading to all of the above. If installers get in the habit of opening the bleeder when they compress the caliper piston, as well as selling customers a brake fluid flush, these problems will more than likely not occur
Ok, so I pushed the calipers back without openning the bleader. This is on the front brakes. Now the rotor are running hot just traveling around the bock. The pins; top and bottom are fine and move smoothly. Do you have a suggestion on what to do next?
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  #29  
Old 07-02-2008, 08:22 PM
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Re: Brake problem

How easily did the caliper pistons move back in? Did you use a tool, or just pry the caliper open with a screw driver?

As for the bleeders, I agree that it's the best way to do the job, but I know mechanics who have never done it (for whatever reason) and haven't recieved any complaints. I didn't open the bleeders when I did my brake because I don't think they'll move without snapping, and no problems with the brakes since.

I should really look into that further and see if a little liquid wrench will get them moving. The nice, bright, acetylene powered kind of liquid wrench...
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  #30  
Old 07-03-2008, 04:12 PM
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Re: Brake problem

I used a c-clamp and a block of wood, not too hard. Just to test each caliper I openned the caliper, placed a bock of wood inside and then stepped on the brake. I pushed on one by hand - level went up in the resivour, then the same with the other and the level went up slightly and the other caliper came out slightly. Doing this should prove that the caliper seal / ring in good, don't you think?
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