Engine dies when put into gear - Page 2

oab_au · #16 04-17-2005, 05:38 PM

David thinks it could be the converter locked up, but went away when he replaced the engine temp sensor.
I don't think the converter would be applied by the B solenoid, so it must be draging. Could be cold oil? But if it was draging, it would be slow to turn over on the starter, having to turn the turbine and whole trans.

I think the cold start sensor would be a likely cause. Engine lacks the fuel to develope the power to drive, till the temp comes up. Yes I think it is a cold idle problem, more that the converter.

Harvey.

Lardon · #17 01-01-2007, 08:33 PM

Ok so i used the search, and saw this. Was wondering if anyone know what ever happened with Jen's car. Cause right now i'm having the exact same problem. I'll start my car, its idles normally, if i shift it into drive, it cuts off. Its a really smooth cut off, not rough or anything. The reason why i'm asking is cause everyone actually seemed to fix the problem by putting it into D. So i tried to see if i could get the opposite out of my car, and tried to put it into reverse, and it cut itself off again, but there was a really ugly clunking sound when it cut itself off. It was good after warming up for about 10 minutes. So has anyone else had this problem lately or in the past, and if so how did you fix it?

craftylandshark · #18 01-03-2007, 01:47 PM

I encountered the exact same problem a few mornings earlier this Winter right after it started to get cold, but like most of the others have said, only after an overnight sit. I hope you get as lucky as I did, mine seems to have sorted itself out. Hasn't happened again in a couple of months.

svxistentialist · #19 01-04-2007, 05:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lardon

Ok so i used the search, and saw this. Was wondering if anyone know what ever happened with Jen's car. Cause right now i'm having the exact same problem. I'll start my car, its idles normally, if i shift it into drive, it cuts off. Its a really smooth cut off, not rough or anything. The reason why i'm asking is cause everyone actually seemed to fix the problem by putting it into D. So i tried to see if i could get the opposite out of my car, and tried to put it into reverse, and it cut itself off again, but there was a really ugly clunking sound when it cut itself off. It was good after warming up for about 10 minutes. So has anyone else had this problem lately or in the past, and if so how did you fix it?

The throttle body has a cold running jet. This richens the fuel under load. Such would be the case when your car is cold started, and when the aircon is switched on, or the heater fans, rear screen demist, all the stuff you will have on when it's cold.

The engine computer, aka ecu, switches in this jet using a solenoid valve. Is it possible your solenoid valve is not working? Or is sticking when it is cold weather?

Just a thought.

Joe

Trevor · #20 01-04-2007, 03:26 PM

Checking back through the thread and applying logic, would indicate that the first thing to be done is to replace the temperature sensor. The component may be intermittent in operation making fault identification difficult.

This would not be difficult or expensive, and even if not effective would eliminate one possibility from the equation. Whatever, it is important to make every effort to exactly identify all preceding factors in problems such as this.
At this point there is confusion, but temperature in my opinion sits at the top of the list.

Lardon · #21 01-06-2007, 07:58 PM

What temp sensor would this be, would it be a fuel temp sensor? And would you might have a diagram or a good description of where it would be located?

Trevor · #22 01-06-2007, 09:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lardon

What temp sensor would this be, would it be a fuel temp sensor? And would you might have a diagram or a good description of where it would be located?

The engine temperature sensor. It is located on the water manifold, top left hand side of the engine. Look for two adjacent components screwed into an a cast alloy assembly, both with wires attached. One is smaller and has a single wire and is the sensor for the temperature gauge. The larger one with a two wire connector, is the engine sensor of interest to you.

A mechanic should be able to replace in 15 minutes charge out time, but draining cooling fluid and refilling will add some.