Front tire wear = worn suspension?

[floatingkiwi]

Originally Posted by nutshell

Sure. I got a printout.
Remember, this is a Right hand drive model.
These are the front settings (as recorded by a Beissbarth ML4600 wheel aligner):

Castor: Left: +4.59 Right: + 4.50 (target: +4.50/ +0.45 -0.45)

KPI (kingpin inclination): Left: +16.11 Right: +15.59 (target: +16.00 +- 0.45)

Camber: Left: -O.55 Right: -0.59 (target -0.25/ +0.45 -0.45)

Toe: Left: -1.5mm Right: +0.6mm (target: +0.0mm /+- 1.6mm)

They look in-target to me (but I know squat about alignment)

Ian

Hi Man

They need to get both toes close as possible to Zero by the way.
Also, recent prices from Winger Taupo for shocks/mounts:

Front struts = $251 + gst each
Rear Struts = $377 + gst each
Front mounts = $120 + gst each
Rear Monuts = $165 + gst each

I'm just trying to decide myself. Just took the front strut out and the mount SEEMS OK, but not sure. The piston can be compressed by hand less than 1/2 a second in bump, but takes several seconds to pull back out in rebound. Sounds like it's knackered???

Matt

[Suby Fan]

Originally Posted by nutshell

Sure. I got a printout.
Remember, this is a Right hand drive model.
These are the front settings (as recorded by a Beissbarth ML4600 wheel aligner):

Castor: Left: +4.59 Right: + 4.50 (target: +4.50/ +0.45 -0.45)

KPI (kingpin inclination): Left: +16.11 Right: +15.59 (target: +16.00 +- 0.45)

Camber: Left: -O.55 Right: -0.59 (target -0.25/ +0.45 -0.45)

Toe: Left: -1.5mm Right: +0.6mm (target: +0.0mm /+- 1.6mm)

They look in-target to me (but I know squat about alignment)

Ian

the toe is just barely inspec.... although i would have to look on all data which i dont have on my home computer but it looks like they made a "GREEN MEAN GOOD" error i would take it back... by these numbers i would guess your steering wheel is a little croked

[SURTEESS]

Hey Nutshell (Ian) & Trevor since you are in Auckland, you are both more than welcome to paw through the service manuals that I got from USA (ok so LHD) approx 8" wide across spine!!! - I'm based at Torbay, on the North Shore.

Shows most things - but being from USA does not show AWS, front headlight wipers & sprays & light levelers (remote switch by gear selector), rear window ioniser (remote switch by gear selector) + couple of other things that I cannot remember about......

phone me on (09) 473-7199 or mob 027 290-2361

Steve
(red 1995 with moonroof, full leathers & 125,000 on the clock)

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by SURTEESS

Hey Nutshell (Ian) & Trevor since you are in Auckland, you are both more than welcome to paw through the service manuals that I got from USA (ok so LHD) approx 8" wide across spine!!! - I'm based at Torbay, on the North Shore.

Shows most things - but being from USA does not show AWS, front headlight wipers & sprays & light levelers (remote switch by gear selector), rear window ioniser (remote switch by gear selector) + couple of other things that I cannot remember about......

phone me on (09) 473-7199 or mob 027 290-2361

Steve
(red 1995 with moonroof, full leathers & 125,000 on the clock)

Thanks a lot Steve,

I have a full set of JDM RHD manuals in English and likewise call me at any time. I am in Waterview. (09) 820 8553

[nutshell]

Originally Posted by floatingkiwi

Front struts = $251 + gst each
Rear Struts = $377 + gst each
Front mounts = $120 + gst each
Rear Monuts = $165 + gst each

Matt

Thanks Matt. Appreciated. Checked with Winger Ak and you are spot on.

Front control arm bushes are $48 each.
Rear control arm bushes are $55 each

All above are ex GST - naturally.
All ex Japan (2-3 weeks)

BTW: replacement lower front wishbones are around $500 each.

For you folk not in NZ an NZD = approx 70 cents USD

[floatingkiwi]

Good to know. Also see a new thread downunder for details of aftermarket rotors for NZ SVX's!!

Matt

[nutshell]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Thanks a lot Steve,

I have a full set of JDM RHD manuals in English and likewise call me at any time. I am in Waterview. (09) 820 8553

Thanks Trevor...much appreciated

[SVX10]

Also worth checking are the inner tie rods (the ball joint that connects the rack to the tie rod). Those wore out on my '92 @ about 150k. Tire wear symptoms were identical to yours, except not as extreme because I got annoyed by tire noise and fixed it before the tires completely wore out.

To check the inner tie rods, I jacked the front of the car up off the ground and removed the tires. Then, I would "hug" the rotor and apply torque about the steering axis. What would happen is that the rotor/knuckle assembly would turn a few degrees before engaging the rack. You have to be gentle, slow, and precise w/turning the knuckle because the slop is very small and easy to miss if you turn it too fast/forcefully. When I took the protective boot off of the inner tie rod, I could see that the ball joint had a small amount of slop allowing the tie rod and the wheel to move independent of the rack. My assumption is that the tires were being pushed to a slight toe out condition under road load conditions causing the specific inner shoulder wear.

[nutshell]

Originally Posted by SVX10

Also worth checking are the inner tie rods (the ball joint that connects the rack to the tie rod).

Many thanks for the helpful suggestions - appreciated - certainly worth checking.