Power Window Problem

[1320boy]

I have no clue with whats going on with my window it rolls up.....
Thats it. I thought it was the motor so i bought a new one. Same thing. I rolls up. The window motor was half down or up (whatever) but i made the mistake of rolling it up not rolling it down.
Any sugestions????

OH!!! its the front passenger window.

[Keister7]

The moter reverses to move it up and down. Check your switch. If not possible, because you don.t know how, buy one on ebey or from the dealer and change it!http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/imag...lies/smile.gif

[Sr240sx]

i was having the same problems with my driver's side console, so i just bought a new switchpanel

As strange as this sounds, it's probably the drivers side switch cluster. The relays for all of the windows are housed in the drivers switch panel. You may not have to buy a new switch though. Take it apart (there are several screws on the top part), and spray everything down really well with electrical contact cleaner. Let it dry, and put it back together. This may solve your problem, and will keep you from having to spend 76 bucks on a new switch.

Mike

[1320boy]

Thanks i might try that, if thats not it, then i guess i need to get another one.

Originally Posted by Green1995SVX

As strange as this sounds, it's probably the drivers side switch cluster. The relays for all of the windows are housed in the drivers switch panel. You may not have to buy a new switch though. Take it apart (there are several screws on the top part), and spray everything down really well with electrical contact cleaner. Let it dry, and put it back together. This may solve your problem, and will keep you from having to spend 76 bucks on a new switch.

Mike

[1320boy]

Tried it out....

..... And the results?????


NOTHING!!!!

So anyone wanna sell me one??

[Guyver280z]

Good question. I have THE EXACTLY SAME PROBLEM

The passenger window wont go down, only up, I already checked BOTH drivers and passengers side buttons, Opened them cleaned them even bypassed the conectors and it WONT go down.

I just replaced the whole regulator because it was broken and it was working great. The drivers side switch was a little dirty but the passengers side worked perfect. It just suddenly stoped going down.

Already took the door appart and checked the cables, and everything seems right, but I cant even hear a click on a relay working when I press the down button. I can lower it connecting 12V to the motor conector.

I NEED HELP!!!! Already checked the fuses and I cant find a relay or something causing this problem.

[Guyver280z]

Oh cmon, nobody??? Not even a clue?? Its a big coincidence two cars with exactly the same problem, dont ya think??

HELP PLEASE!!!

[Earthworm]

Check for loose connections. I had a similar issue with my door locks. Time to break out the multi-meter and/or test light and check all the connections.

Mine was a problem with the connection behind the driver's kick panel.

[cozykat]

I understand you took the doors apart and the switch, but I was curious if you notice if the switches sit a little high?
I am having problems with my switch and I took it apart to verify everything was ok and it was. So I looked at the actual switches and discovered my issue is the switches' hinges. They are broken or cracked making it easy for the switch to move around, allow it to offset itself. The switches aren't being held snug by the hinge. So being loose, they can't reach the metal connections which must be pressed to apply the needed voltage/current to the window motors. If I press "just so" I can make them work but I have to make sure the little black switches are fully in place for them to work.
I was working on a friends controller to see what his problem was and it turns out.. exact same situation. I took photos of my friend's switch and posted in my locker. Mind you the switch has some dirt in it from being stored in a garage. lol I was going to draw up a schematic of the whole controller but I didn't want to take the white plastic case completely apart until I'm sure I can either put it back together or I buy a new switch and don't mind any damage on my currently remote.
I did notice that both my '93 remote and my friends '92 remote state "auto" on the driver's window button.. but there isn't anything auto about them. No auto roll down or up? I thought they had auto roll down.. if that went out, I probably will end up taking one completely apart to figure out how to repair that. I notice the remote consists mostly of just 2 relays, an led, a reverse-biasing diode, several resistors, transistors, an inductor, and a capacitor. Now to figure how they are connected...
TTYL,
Marisa

pic1
pic2

[Guyver280z]

Hi there. Thanks for the help but as I already said, its not the switches, I bypassed them and still doesnt work. I checked the connections and they are snug, believe me, its not a simple thing, I already checked all the simple things that can be.

I wonder if there should be a problem behind the kick panel like aerthworm said...

Its just doesnt make any sense, the up and down circuit should be the same, but inverted right?? This is giving me a head ache

[cozykat]

Originally Posted by Guyver280z

Hi there. Thanks for the help but as I already said, its not the switches, I bypassed them and still doesnt work. I checked the connections and they are snug, believe me, its not a simple thing, I already checked all the simple things that can be.

I wonder if there should be a problem behind the kick panel like aerthworm said...

Its just doesnt make any sense, the up and down circuit should be the same, but inverted right?? This is giving me a head ache

Hi! I was just posting my results because my driver's side remote is messed up too. I couldn't use it to roll my passenger window up or down. I would press hard but that doesn't matter if the knob has offset itself. I just saw a lot of people were having that problem in this thread and another and thought I would let people know what my particular problem turned out to be, along with my friend's 92. It's not a really noticeable issue (at least it wasn't for me since I didn't realize my buttons sat cockeyed until I took it apart and was like.. hmm the switch is hinging properly...) So while it was a pretty easy diagnosis.. its one I am not sure how to fix. Supergluing doesn't make any sense because its a hinge and needs to move.

I will have to think further about your particular issue. You said you already jumped the wires... but by checking the wires and saying they are snug, did you mean that you poked a hole (like with a needle) from the switch end of the wire and another hole near the bottom where the motor is and found the wires were uninterrupted? And you replaced the motor too? I am just trying to understand what you've done so I hopefully don't suggest repetitive things. The switches, I beleive, are wired directly into the motors so if the window doesn't roll down, I can't see how its not one of those 3 things (switch, wire/connection, or motor).
This is all on the passenger side or driver's side? If it's the passenger side, can you control the window using the driver's switch? This weekend I can stare at my wiring again and see if I notice anything that could cause you to have an open circuit... because if the motor is new and you are supplying it postive and negative 12 volts, then yes, the windows should simply go up and down (ignoring the switches because I have several times controlled my windows without them). Since the switches just control the relays to alternate the voltage on the motor. If you find the incoming wires supplying 12 volts and ground, then you shouldn't have to look deep into your system to find the problem. When you supply voltage to the motor, do you hear it trying to roll up/down (like humming)? (long shot would be that its the little plastic clip holding the window...)
Don't get too worked up over the switch.. if you find yourself stressing.. take a break.. you'll think better that way too and less likely to smash something. hehe You'll figure this out.
I'm probably missing something silly as I sometimes do and then I have to slap myself. lol
Take care,

[Earthworm]

Gluing works. If you pull the button off you will find 1 or 2 small pieces of plastic wedged into the button itself. Get them out one way or another and glue them back where they belong. Once the glue is set carefully push the button back into place trying not to break off the tabs you just glued.

[cozykat]

Originally Posted by Earthworm

Gluing works. If you pull the button off you will find 1 or 2 small pieces of plastic wedged into the button itself. Get them out one way or another and glue them back where they belong. Once the glue is set carefully push the button back into place trying not to break off the tabs you just glued.

Ahh That makes sense. But it will only help me with one of the 3 since the other two are broken but I couldn't find the broken pieces.

[Trevor]

The power window system is technically simple, although the wiring and switching does form one very big tangle.

The motors are reversed simply by interchanging their polarity. There are no limit switches involved and the system relies on the motors capability to be stalled for the short time a switch may be held closed, i.e. after a window has reached its final up or down position. A circuit breaker is incorporated as safety overload protection.

As a result of all this, the switches involved contain many contacts and failure can be expected. The power window main switch located in the drivers door, is hugely complicated and is the most likely suspect item. A normally closed contact within this assembly could cause the problems described.

The system relies on the closing of normally closed contacts in all switches. Spring pressure alone is involved in such contacts which makes them viable. You are therefore looking for a switch/circuit which should be completed when a switch is closed, but in fact is this not occurring.

Models which have an auto function will also incorporate a delayed release relay, as a means of holding a circuit closed after release of the main switch, but it is unlikely that this extra feature could directly cause the problem raised here.

All I can offer from so far away.