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  #1  
Old 06-09-2006, 04:00 PM
kuoh kuoh is offline
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AC clutch disassembly/replacement

Anyone here know if the AC compressor clutch can be cleaned/fixed/replaced with basic garage tools? Mine is slipping so I'd like to know if it can be taken apart and replaced without special tools or expelling any coolant.

KuoH
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Old 06-10-2006, 07:06 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuoh
Anyone here know if the AC compressor clutch can be cleaned/fixed/replaced with basic garage tools? Mine is slipping so I'd like to know if it can be taken apart and replaced without special tools or expelling any coolant.

KuoH
Don't know for sure, but this dia. looks like you could.


Harvey.
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Old 06-11-2006, 06:51 AM
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If you have good power and ground at the field and no oil on the clutch face you have a problem that isn't the clutch.

The only clutch slippage I've ever witnessed has been due to a seizing compressor or extremely high pressure.
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Old 06-12-2006, 09:57 PM
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Thanks for the diagram, but having never seen the workings of the AC clutch, I can't really tell how to do it from just that diagram.

KuoH

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Originally Posted by oab_au
Don't know for sure, but this dia. looks like you could.
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Old 06-12-2006, 10:16 PM
kuoh kuoh is offline
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I haven't measured the contacts, but what would be considered "extremely high" pressure? I'm getting somewhere between 110-150 PSI, depending on ambient temps, on the low side with AC off after parking approximately 5-6 hours. With AC on, it varies between 35-45 PSI when the compressor is turning. I haven't tried to measure the high side yet, so I don't know what it's at when the clutch slips, but the AC does seem to cool just fine when not slipping.

I doubt that a problem has developed in the wiring, but oil is a possibility given the age of the car and the fact that over the past couple of years, the PS system has been steadily losing more and more oil to the heat shield. Some of that "smoil" has covered parts of the engine and possibly contaminated the clutch face. Hopefully, I can clean, or at least visibly asses any problems with the clutch if I can find some info on how to disassemble it with ordinary tools.

KuoH

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beav
If you have good power and ground at the field and no oil on the clutch face you have a problem that isn't the clutch.

The only clutch slippage I've ever witnessed has been due to a seizing compressor or extremely high pressure.
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Old 06-13-2006, 01:06 AM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Compressor clutch.

They don't show anything on disassembling the comp. I got no idea on Air Con, work. The type of cars that I worked on didn't have them.

But I do remember removing the clutch on a Nissan to replace the burnt out winding. The bolt in the center, removes the clutch plate, and a central nut for the pulley. When putting it together you shim the clutch plate for free clearance.

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  #7  
Old 06-13-2006, 04:33 AM
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'Extremely high' would refer to the high side only and would be in excess of 350#.

If it is cooling properly (and 35# is a bit high for that to be possible) what makes you believe the clutch is slipping?

And if you can't measure the high side I'm assuming you have a 'cram it in' kit. They are extremely dangerous and should be illegal. Not having any idea of what the high side is doing is a bad thing.
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Old 06-13-2006, 02:55 PM
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I believe it's slipping because I've observed the clutch plate stop several times while the pulley continues to rotate, without much noise or protestation from the clutch, belt or engine. So are you saying that 35 PSI on the low side while the compressor is running is too high to be able to cool properly? What should it be, under 25 PSI? I get virtually no cooling at under 25-30 PSI. Keep in mind, I didn't replace the expansion valve.

You are correct that I'm measuring with the gauge supplied from a conversion, aka "cram it in" kit, installed about a year ago. I did however, have the system evacuated again and refilled a few weeks ago and have been keeping an eye on the pressures this time.

KuoH

Quote:
Originally Posted by Beav
If it is cooling properly (and 35# is a bit high for that to be possible) what makes you believe the clutch is slipping?

And if you can't measure the high side I'm assuming you have a 'cram it in' kit. They are extremely dangerous and should be illegal. Not having any idea of what the high side is doing is a bad thing.

Last edited by kuoh; 06-13-2006 at 03:02 PM.
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  #9  
Old 06-13-2006, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kuoh
I believe it's slipping because I've observed the clutch plate stop several times while the pulley continues to rotate, without much noise or protestation from the clutch, belt or engine.
It sounds as though you're just describing the clutch cutting in/out. This is caused by too much/too little pressure.

Our compressers are not supposed to cycle.
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Old 06-13-2006, 03:47 PM
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No, when the clutch engages/disengages, there is a very noticeable click. That is not happening and the clutch is not disengaging due to under/over pressure, it is simply stopping I suppose, either due to a slipping clutch or a seizing compressor, though there is no abnormal noise when it stops turning as I would expect from a seizing compressor.

KuoH

Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
It sounds as though you're just describing the clutch cutting in/out. This is caused by too much/too little pressure.

Our compressers are not supposed to cycle.
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Old 06-13-2006, 04:14 PM
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25-30# @ 1500-2000rpm is normal and should provide best cooling. Cutting out due to low side pressure usually occurs below 20# on most cars, not sure about SVX. Checking pressures below 1500-2000rpm is inconsistent. Rpm up, windows up, controls on recirc and high blower. High ambient temps and humidity may require additional fan in front of condensor.
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  #12  
Old 06-14-2006, 12:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
Our compressers are not supposed to cycle.
Why? Are you sure?

It's very easy to observe some japanese cars' compressors On and Off.
In an SVX, it's very difficult to see that. Why? But, it did happen to mine before.....there're few times in the cool mornings, I did notice my AC compressor was cycled since the AC was cold enough in the cabin. However, I have not noticed in a hot day or afternoon.

PS: what is the best way to deal with a seizing compressor? Easy to rebuild or sell it? I have a seizing compressor ... not sure what to do with it yet. After that happened, I found a good low miles used AC compressor and converted the system to R134a.
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  #13  
Old 06-14-2006, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSVX
Why? Are you sure?
The SVX compresser has an internal clutch (warble plate?) which varies the output so it only uses what it needs instead of being completely on or completely off. This is supposed to save fuel.
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  #14  
Old 06-15-2006, 01:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthworm
The SVX compresser has an internal clutch (warble plate?) which varies the output so it only uses what it needs instead of being completely on or completely off. This is supposed to save fuel.
Would this help to save fuel?

One of the simple ways I myself to observe if the AC is cycled is thru the cooling fans. My mazda AC blows really ice cold - I could feel that the AC kicks on and off thru the fans. I feel good on that.

My SVXi blow ice cold too (but not as good as the Mazda when on traffic jams). Once the AC is on, the both cooling fans are always, always running; they might go to different speed but I never seen them off, most of the times. I don't know...I actually don't like it, feel consuming alot of gas (feeling) and keep wearing out my cooling fans (shorten the lifespan)

I guess they are just the different system. But I was very positive, there're couple times in the cool mornings, my AC was cycled off a few times ... I heard the fans were off when it was on AC mode not Econ. Weird. But I actually felt happy on that....felt like it worked as my Mazda and Nissan On and off = enough charge = save more battery energy...
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  #15  
Old 06-15-2006, 09:42 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SSSVX
Would this help to save fuel?

One of the simple ways I myself to observe if the AC is cycled is thru the cooling fans. My mazda AC blows really ice cold - I could feel that the AC kicks on and off thru the fans. I feel good on that.

My SVXi blow ice cold too (but not as good as the Mazda when on traffic jams). Once the AC is on, the both cooling fans are always, always running; they might go to different speed but I never seen them off, most of the times. I don't know...I actually don't like it, feel consuming alot of gas (feeling) and keep wearing out my cooling fans (shorten the lifespan)

I guess they are just the different system. But I was very positive, there're couple times in the cool mornings, my AC was cycled off a few times ... I heard the fans were off when it was on AC mode not Econ. Weird. But I actually felt happy on that....felt like it worked as my Mazda and Nissan On and off = enough charge = save more battery energy...
Yes as David says, the compressor runs all the time that the AC is on. The Wobble plate sets the angle,and the stroke of the compressor. It can be pulled up vertically, to just spin, without pumping, if it's cold enough.

There is a case of the clutch turning on the off. If the outside temp is too low, the clutch will cycle on and off to prevent the evaporator from freezing up. So it does do it under some conditions.

Harvey.
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