Clunking when turning in AWD?

[phaux]

When I run the car in AWD and take turns the car makes a loud clunking noise. Does not do it in FWD. Any ideas?

thanx

[NikFu S.]

Common symptom of a transfer valve solenoid failure. The AWD is in a full-time lock and binding around corners.
If you keep driving it in that condition something is liable to break, possibly your rear diff.

The fact it goes away when you insert the FWD fuse is sorta good.
Beware however, driving in FWD mode is for diagnosis and very short distance driving only as it my further damage you drivetrain.

[phaux]

How much is the parts to repair that? How hard is it to do?

thanx

[NikFu S.]

I hear a new transfer valve assembly is in the $300 range. I have been looking for one myself.
Differentials are more costly. Someone else might be able to give you a better solution to that one.

In my opinion, difficulty level is very high, due to the fact you must remove the exhaust. I don't know about you, but mine is rusted and must be cut off. I intend to repair my AWD system when I have an exhaust system ready to weld up.
According to memory, the valve assembly sits at the far rear of the transmission in a bell housing that can be opened without doing more then removing the driveline. Diff obviously is at the other end of the shaft.
In any case, leave the diff alone and just replace the valve assembly. According to the experts even if one part of it fails it is best to replace the entire thing.
Also, a bad rear diff will not damage your new assembly, whereas a bad assembly will destroy a new rear diff. (:

[Mr. Pockets]

Okay, first of all, what do you mean by 'when I run the car in AWD?' You're inserting and removing the FWD fuse? Are you doing this a lot? Why are you doing it?

The solenoid for the transfer clutch should not be nearly as expensive as Nik says. What will drive up the cost is the following suggestion: you might as well replace the clutch itself while you're in there.

I wouldn't attempt the repair without a manual and I wouldn't attempt it if you haven't done some pretty complicated stuff already. There are things you can mess up easily without knowing it, and the result will be a bad transmission.

I'm not entirely convinced your problem is transfer clutch-related anyway. You could also be describing a bad axle.

[Mr. Pockets]

Subaruparts.com says a new transfer clutch valve assembly is $88.

Now you don't have to 'look' for one, Nik.

[NikFu S.]

Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets

Subaruparts.com says a new transfer clutch valve assembly is $88.

Now you don't have to 'look' for one, Nik.

http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=182-A ?
Control Valve-
Sol assembly, $317.50.
Sol assembly, $99.42.

[Mr. Pockets]

You're not even looking in the right area.

http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=175-A

Part number 9 on the diagram.

[intelisevil]

Has anyone wanted to beat the piss out of some Subaru engineers because of all of the solenoids in our cars?

Dan

[NikFu S.]

Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets

You're not even looking in the right area.

http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=175-A

Part number 9 on the diagram.

Well that makes things a lot clearer. I was wondering what the heck that stacked wafery looking thing was supposed to be.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by intelisevil

Has anyone wanted to beat the piss out of some Subaru engineers because of all of the solenoids in our cars?

Dan

Harvey could be a starter

[phaux]

Originally Posted by Mr. Pockets

Okay, first of all, what do you mean by 'when I run the car in AWD?' You're inserting and removing the FWD fuse? Are you doing this a lot? Why are you doing it?

I wouldn't attempt the repair without a manual and I wouldn't attempt it if you haven't done some pretty complicated stuff already. There are things you can mess up easily without knowing it, and the result will be a bad transmission.

I have been driving it with the fuse in as the clunking was worrying me. What does it damage when driving in FWD? I have purchased the repair manual and am confident in being able to do it as I have done a bit of work cars before, just nothing to do with trannies or AWD.

Thanx for all the input, was afraid I'd be having to buy a new tranny which I wasn't looking forward to. An $88 piece is much cheaper

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by phaux

I have been driving it with the fuse in as the clunking was worrying me. What does it damage when driving in FWD? I have purchased the repair manual and am confident in being able to do it as I have done a bit of work cars before, just nothing to do with trannies or AWD.

Thanx for all the input, was afraid I'd be having to buy a new tranny which I wasn't looking forward to. An $88 piece is much cheaper

The only real problem of using the FWD fuse for any length of time, is the real danger of spinning the front wheels. When the AWD system is working right, it will allways prevent the front from spinning by appling the torque to the rear wheels.

When the transfer clutch stops working, or the fuse is in, there is no way of preventing the front wheels from spinning. When this happens, the torque is moving back and forwards from one front wheel to the other, depending on which one has grip. This causes a lot of jaring of the differential gears, and they can, and do, break.

So while the fuse is in, don't let them spin.

Harvey.

[Sr240sx]

Originally Posted by intelisevil

Has anyone wanted to beat the piss out of some Subaru engineers because of all of the solenoids in our cars?

Dan

yes.

I don't have more than THREE or so in my damn 240...

That's why I like nissan. everything's mechanical, nothing to go wrong...

Of course, when it does go wrong, it's several thousand times more difficult to fix.

[nipper]

Originally Posted by phaux

When I run the car in AWD and take turns the car makes a loud clunking noise. Does not do it in FWD. Any ideas?

thanx

Another possability is that its the carrier bearing that is between the two halves fo the druveshaft. That will make a clunking and thud noise, Torque bind is more of a grabbing on turns and doesnt usually make noise unless the clutches are fried. if the clutches are fried, then the fwd fuse trick wont work.
If it is torque bind, flush the tranny first. Normally that works 95% of the time, but since SVX tend to get a lot of material in thier fluid, im not sure if that will help. Still a flush is cheaper then a clutch pack.

nipper