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#16
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Best guess...
It sounds to me like the crank pulley is spinning under load fron the power steering and alternator. That's why the steering is heavy and the warning lights illuminate... the belt's not turning fast enough.
Put the AC belt back on and get someone to cycle the AC on-and-off while you look; you should be able to tell if the pulley is slipping. (If it were a belt slipping, you'd hear it.) dcb |
#17
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Well, seems like another problem just came up......AGAIN!!!, My alternator has now died. Could this be part of the problems that I have been having? Would the alternator not properly charging the car result in any of this?
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1992 Midnight Black LS-L - Sold 3/3/06 1991 Toyota MR2 - Sold 11/27/07 1992 BMW 325i - Tokicko Suspension |
#18
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I can't speak from experience, but from reading here, yes, warning light goofiness is a symptom of a failing alternator. That said: You've mentioned the belt "moving slowly" and "acting weird." I sure would rule out a problem with the crank pulley before springing for an alternator.
dcb |
#19
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I took the car to Advance, and the alternator is dead. I about fainted when they told me the price of a Rebuilt one, they quoted me 190.00 ( ) Luckily, A mechanic I know can rebuild one for around 65.00, So i'll probably either go with that or one from Motorsport..
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1992 Midnight Black LS-L - Sold 3/3/06 1991 Toyota MR2 - Sold 11/27/07 1992 BMW 325i - Tokicko Suspension |
#20
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finally got around to putting the belts and A/C idler pulley back on friday night,. Turn the car on, it runs pretty good for about 3 minutes, then all the sudden, the crank pulley splits into two pieces. I've already ordered the Underdrive set from Dayle, but how do I take the old crank pulley off? I tried earlier today, and it wouldn't come loose.
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1992 Midnight Black LS-L - Sold 3/3/06 1991 Toyota MR2 - Sold 11/27/07 1992 BMW 325i - Tokicko Suspension |
#21
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you really wanna know?
Quote:
Get a socket that fits the crackshaft pulley bolt (I think its something like a 22-23mm) and a breaker bar. Put the socket on the breakerbar and put it on the crankshaft pulley bolt. Make sure the breakerbar is against the ground and have someone brace it by putting thier foot on it or something while someone else starts the ignition for a split second. A fraction of a second is all thats required, honestly. I was doubtful of this method too when i first heard it from Eddycat (Subaru mastertech that used to be on the club) but sure enough it worked like a charm. Tightening it back down is another problem entirely. Kuo and I got a strap wrench (a big one) that we wrapped around the new pulley while the other tightened it down. Seems to have worked great. Haven't had a problem since we did it 2 1/2 years ago. If you're just replacing the pulley, it shouldn't take you more than a couple hours to do this and have it back up and running. Best of luck ~Ray
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'93 LS-L named "Samantha Victoria Xavier"...Sam for short. All new and improved custom built engine with forged internals, lowered compression, upgraded cams and a stage III supercharger. AMR Engineering struts, Custom exhaust --All 3 Subaru cats removed, and replaced with 2 high flow mustang cats-- Cross-drilled & Slotted rotors, steel braided brake lines, bypassed stock Tranny cooler replaced with aftermarket B&M super-cooler, and a K&N drop in air filter. |
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