SVX overheating?

I seem to have finally fixed my water pump leak (knock on wood), but now I've *potentially* got another problem.

When I first changed my water pump, timing belt, and etc. months ago, I removed the radiator. I pressure washed it and flushed it. However, the top connector for the upper radiator hose appeared to have deteriorated from 10 years of radiator fluid usage. The first 0.5 - 0.75 inches of it was soft and pliable, so I clipped it until I reached the hard part.

I haven't had any issues since I did that. Until the other day, that is.

When I was just driving around town (not auto-xing or anything), the upper radiator hose came off. Fluid went everywhere, of course. I stopped, put it back on, and screwed the clamp down. I had to add about 2.5 quarts of 50/50 mixed coolant/water. I waited to add the fluid until the radiator had cooled, but not completely as I was rushed for time.

Anyway, I removed the small stopper on the upper hose connecter so that I could slide on the hose for an extra inch. When I got home, I held down the clamp with a pair of pliers and used a socket wrench to tighten it as much as possible. It appears to be staying where it is supposed to.

The problem is that I can feel the engine heat coming into the passenger area through the floor. It stops when I turn off the outside air circulation via the climate controls. However, this only used to happen after I had been driving for a long time (more than an hour). Now it starts to happen after a few minutes.

I can't really tell if my car is actually overheating, as my temp gauge is broken. I'm getting a new one from Dayle, which should be here within a week.

What do ya'll think? Should I keep driving super-chill and wait for the temp gauge to arrive? Is there anything that I should check in the mean time? Does anyone have this unwanted "automatic" heater problem?

Thanks, as usual.

[michael]

I had the exact same thing happen about a year ago. I'd reccomend a new radiator soon. You will proably be getting a crack in the top of the radiator tank soon . Plastic radiators suck, watch that hose doesn't blow off, there is no flare at the end now to hold it on and using a socket wrench to tighten the clamp will crush the pipe. The edges of the pipe are soaking in coolant so like untreated wood it soaks it up and rots away. You should also change the thermostat flush and fill the system and be sure not to trap any air in the system. Fill it from the upper rad. hose then from the rad.

[benebob]

My XT6 has the same issue. The reconnector area actually broke off and stayed in the hose. If you have enough of a nub that you can get some self tapping screws (3) and put 'em in spaced correctly then pull the hose over top and clamp on the rad side you're fixed for a while but will need a new rad soon. Don't try to live the way you are b/c it will pop off again and head gaskets or heads are EXPENSIVE!!!!. Self tapping screws are cheap!

Originally posted by michael
I had the exact same thing happen about a year ago. I'd reccomend a new radiator soon. You will proably be getting a crack in the top of the radiator tank soon . Plastic radiators suck, watch that hose doesn't blow off, there is no flare at the end now to hold it on and using a socket wrench to tighten the clamp will crush the pipe. The edges of the pipe are soaking in coolant so like untreated wood it soaks it up and rots away. You should also change the thermostat flush and fill the system and be sure not to trap any air in the system. Fill it from the upper rad. hose then from the rad.

Precisely what I wasn't looking forward to hearing. Damn.

I just heard from a local radiator guy that stop-leak clogs radiators, despite the advertised claim that they do not. I put this in my coolant to attempt to stop the water pump leak. Perhaps I should flush the whole system once again?

BTW - When a radiator shop tests, flushes, and cleans a radiator, does it really make it "like new"? Seems like somewhat of a bogus claim to me...

[michael]

Bogus, yes. It just removes most of what has shed off of or built up in your cooling system. I don' know off hand but do a search on coolant and be sure you put the right kind in, some do not agree with the different types of metal used in our cooling system.

My two cents:


I had an 88 XT that burned coolant (about a whole reservoirs worth every 700 miles). I added half a tube of Alumaseal and drove that car for 3 years and 90,000 miles and never had to add coolant again. YMMV.




Dave

[dcarrb]

If I were you, I absolutely, positively would NOT drive an SVX with obvious cooling system issues until I had a working temperature gauge in place.

And I'd order a new radiator today.


dcb

[Motorsport-SVX]

yet Garrett ?

[SSSVX]

Originally posted by red95svx
... I added half a tube of Alumaseal ...


Dave

Do you think Is that a good precaution? Would it help anything? Say, if you add one-third of a tube into the radiator when changing your radiator fluid? The radiator is may be more than 8, 9yrs or 100miles but no leak and hold pressure very well.

Originally posted by Motorsport-SVX
did you get your gauge yet Garrett ?

I haven't gotten it yet Dayle... Did you send it by USPS, or some other delivery service? PM or email me if you want. Thanks.

[Motorsport-SVX]

Originally posted by deruvian


I haven't gotten it yet Dayle... Did you send it by USPS, or some other delivery service? PM or email me if you want. Thanks.

USPS ....think it left thur or friday.

Originally posted by Motorsport-SVX


USPS ....think it left thur or friday.

Sweeeeeeeeeeeeet... Should be here on Monday then. Check will be in the mail. Thanks.

Dayle, I just got the temp. gauge yesterday and installed it promptly. It appears to be working! Money is on the way my good man.

I went for a short drive today. Both up and downhill at a considerable speed. The temp gauge stayed in the middle, but I had to re-calibrate it after installing it. So, someone help me here. When you have got the car warmed up all the way and have not driven it like a madman, where does the temp gauge sit when you are parked (i.e. directly after you are driving to work)? This will help me put it into place.

Also — could my problem possibly be my heater core? It might make a bit of sense, since hot air is always being drawn into the car (except when I turn off the outside air circulation). Any idea on how to inspect one?

[dcarrb]

Aside from leaking, I don't think there's much that can go wrong with a heater core. Can't imagine it becoming clogged unless some sort of foreign material got into the system.

My (stock) temp gauge doesn't go to halfway, under any conditions. From my line of sight (I'm 6 ft. tall), the needle never obscures the top of the bulb at the base of the therometer graphic. The car actually runs a tad cooler with the A/C operating, even in city traffic, probably because both cooling fans are doing their thing.


dcb

[SVXer95]

Mine usually sits a bit under half. If I am in stop and go traffic on a hot day, sometimes it will reach halfway.