Autoseatbelts Fixed!

I'm not sure what you are refering to as forward upper door area (Maybe above the dashboard?) but the locations of connectors are:

Three connectors for the seatbelt switches located at the bottom of the rear window near the floor. See Alia176 locker for pics. These connectors then run directly to the seatbelt control unit directly below the rear windshield. Thats it.

Yeah I too had luck if I was messing around with the switches/bundles I could get it to work for a few days...actually thats how this thread got started but nothing permanent. SO thats why I ohmed ever single wire from the connector back to the module..looking for a weird reading...no luck all wires aboubt .5 ohms which seems normal...so not convinced I used my continuity tester to double check...all the wires were continous, no breaks. I'm just confused

[alia176]

Glad to hear that you found the relays. I'd love it if you could snap a pic or two of the ECU and I can stick in my locker too for reference.

Do the relays have see through housing? If so, can you compare the operations of the driver and pass relays to see what's happening? It'd help to have the schematic for the relays too I imagine.

With regards to your question as to why things don't work with IGN off, I can only assume that constant +12vdc isn't going to the appropriate places.

From the schematic, there are two sources of CONST 12vdc: FB-8 and MB-2. The FB-8 is going to: key warning switch, security elec module, time control unit, and front/rear door latch sw. MB-2 is going to only Pin 3 on the ECU. Curious, do you see +12vdc with IGN off on any of the contacts (NC or NO) of the relays? How about the coil?

Are you still driving this car daily? If so, my hat's off to ya for putting up with all of these inconveniences!

Ali

[fasteract]

Sorry...meant the wiring bundle located on the driver's door, panal removed, near the front, upper portion, ...interesting that next message mentions the door latch sensing switch as being on of the controls with 12v with IGN. ON. Subaru mechanic here said my door latch switch was probably the problem...is it located inboard from the latch mechanism as I think was mentioned in a prior post ?

Glad to hear that you found the relays. I'd love it if you could snap a pic or two of the ECU and I can stick in my locker too for reference.

I uploaded them into my locker, feel free to steal them. The relays are the 4 black square things.

Do the relays have see through housing? If so, can you compare the operations of the driver and pass relays to see what's happening? It'd help to have the schematic for the relays too I imagine.

Nope they are opaque. We couldn't be that lucky. I'm sure there's no schemtic for the relays. It's a printed circuit board, nothing user fixable on it. Just throw away. No terminals to measure from either. Only way to tell is to swap in a known working ecu

With regards to your question as to why things don't work with IGN off, I can only assume that constant +12vdc isn't going to the appropriate places. From the schematic, there are two sources of CONST 12vdc: FB-8 and MB-2. The FB-8 is going to: key warning switch, security elec module, time control unit, and front/rear door latch sw. MB-2 is going to only Pin 3 on the ECU. Curious, do you see +12vdc with IGN off on any of the contacts (NC or NO) of the relays? How about the coil?

Well I think the door switch actually feeds the Time control unit. Not vice-versa. You only want the key in the igniton to chime when the doors open. Kinda have to read that section from right to left. They just use the door switch for two different things (the key chime, and the seatbelt) Do you know that FB-8 and MB-2 are constant 12V? Have you measured them for sure? I have not. I have no clue whats feeding those fuses...so I'm not sure if they are constant voltage, impossible to tell from the schematic. WHat the heck does MB-2 stand for? Do you have the schematic of that section of the electrical system...ie...what feeds those fuses? No way to measure any kind of voltage off these relays, no pins.

Are you still driving this car daily? If so, my hat's off to ya for putting up with all of these inconveniences!

Yes I am. I'm a gosh-darn saint for putting up with this car. I'm not going to lie, I am having nightmares in my sleep about this system. I hid my matches and gasoline can, just so I wouldn't get tempted to stage an unfortunante and tragic "accident"

Fasteract : Probably not your door switch. If your dome light comes on when you open the door, it probably means your door switch is working.

Guys, its like you were driving my car. Same problems, you'all are a lot more savy in these matters than I, please keep up your detective work, cant wait to see how this comes out!

Well I havent gotten a darn thing done in the last few weeks. Kervin Subaru wont return any of my calls. I sent them one e-mail and two calls so far in two weeks. They say since Mike left they "dont know" how to look up SVX parts and they "will get back to me." Oh well they lost my business. Too bad Mike helped me out on a few problems. Will start working on it again once I recieve my parts from another company.

[alia176]

Same story here. I've been a little busy with the wife's Legacy wheel bearing project and travelling for work. We'll keep the thread alive until 96svxer's seatbelts are working again!!

Seeing as how most of us have the same problem, I'm incline agree on the relay being the culprit. I wonder how difficult would it be to desolder two relays and swap them around? Basically swap just the one relay from the pass side to the driver side. This way, now the pass side would be experiencing the same issue if this theory proved correct!

Just a thought. You could purchase an ECU from a junk yard but chances are it might be in the same condition as ours. I'll try to find a local SVX with whom I can swap in the ECU for a few minutes to see if the problem goes away. Assuming of course that he doesn't have the same problem!

Ali

I think it would be impossible to swap relays I thought of that too. Printed circuit boards are impossible to fix. They aren't like a normal board where you can heat up the sotter and remove it.

Yeah found a used ECU...but then thought better of it. Why buy as used one that may or may not work?

Oh no keeping the tread alive till I fix my belts.....well if this trouble shooting thing doesn't work, I have another trick up my sleeve. Might just build my own seatbelt circuit. But we'll see.

Well I havent gotten a darn thing done in the last few weeks. Kervin Subaru wont return any of my calls. I sent them one e-mail and two calls so far in two weeks. They say since Mike left they "dont know" how to look up SVX parts and they "will get back to me." Oh well they lost my business. Too bad Mike helped me out on a few problems. Will start working on it again once I recieve my parts from another company.

opps minutes after posting this got a reply from Kervin. Looks like I got the last rear-limit switch in the country.....and no more seatbelt ecu left in existance. May have to try to find a used one

[Uncamitzi]

that I've been following like an episode of "24" Earl said he was going out to check his...(which one??) and never returned...

Earl.... You OK????

Well finally figured out what was wrong with the seatbelts. They have been working perfectly for a week now. Gota get back to work but will post more later.

[alia176]

I'm waiting with breathless anticipation !

[Aredubjay]

Originally posted by 96svxer
Well finally figured out what was wrong with the seatbelts. They have been working perfectly for a week now. Gota get back to work but will post more later.

Work? WORK!?!? Where are your priorities man?!

All right! Fine....It's the ECU.....Now let me get back to work! And thanks for ruining my surprise!


I wrote up a little Seatbelt Manual and I will post it up later. It's got a lot of goodies that I dont think anybody knows about.....

Edit: Opps I guess I shouldn't yell at the president...ahhhh...sorry sir!

Well it seems I have deleted my write up, too bad it was pretty informative. I have uploaded some pics to my locker if you want to check them out. But I doubt I will have time to re-write the manual again. But The ECU was in deed bad. I swapped in the new one and everything worked, but to make sure I swapped the old one back in and everything stopped working. But the ECU was $242. Any question give me a shout. Hope this helps!