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  #1  
Old 07-24-2011, 10:21 AM
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Rear A/C

I have recently happened upon an idea to find a place to splice into the a/c duct in the dash and run a small duct through the center console to the rear seat. Often, my two year old daughter rides back there and it takes too long for the back to cool down. Has anyone else thought of this or have any ideas of where a good place to tap into the a/c would be?
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  #2  
Old 07-24-2011, 10:55 AM
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Re: Rear A/C


'


I wouldn't think it would be too effective. The extra duct work would reduce the overall efficiency and airflow.

What I have done in the past in this situation is to set the temperature at its lowest fan at max and push the DEF button.

This sends the air up the windshield towards the roof and back. The same with the side window defrosters. Once it car is cooled, adjust as needed.

The RECIRC button also helps the keep the cool air in the car.


I giant Slurpee couldn't hurt in the meantime.
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  #3  
Old 07-24-2011, 11:58 AM
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Re: Rear A/C

Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess View Post
I giant Slurpee couldn't hurt in the meantime.
Two-year-old + Giant Slurpee = Massive mess in the back seat
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  #4  
Old 07-24-2011, 04:05 PM
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Re: Rear A/C

Are we there yet?
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  #5  
Old 07-24-2011, 05:50 PM
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Re: Rear A/C

Quote:
Originally Posted by radarwhiz View Post
Two-year-old + Giant Slurpee = Massive mess in the back seat
Maybe some flavored ice water in a Tommee Tippee cup?

.
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1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


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  #6  
Old 08-02-2011, 03:58 PM
92snowmachine 92snowmachine is offline
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Re: Rear A/C

you could always use something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...Q5fAccessories
all you have to do is run a low and high side line to it from your existing lines, that's how newer cars run their rear ac, and how they did it all the way back to the 50s. any competent ac shop should be able to tie into your existing lines and run new ones to the trunk, you could mount this on the rear deck or below it with some venting going up.
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Old 08-02-2011, 05:49 PM
RojoRocket RojoRocket is offline
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Re: Rear A/C

This is an issue that came up after our twin grandkids were riding around in the back of our wagon, and we felt so bad that they were drenching wet every time we pulled them out of their child safety seats. Hence, we bought a Caddy with rear vents/fans etc. Has anyone ever seen/envisioned/built a safety seat with built in fans/perforated upholstery, and maybe even a hose hook-up to a coolbox like they use in NASCAR to keep the driver's heads as cool as possible? With the miniaturization of so many components making such a thing possible, how many parents/grandparents would be willing to spring the $$ for such a thing for their precious cargo? Any inventors out there?

Glenn
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  #8  
Old 08-03-2011, 10:03 AM
92snowmachine 92snowmachine is offline
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Re: Rear A/C

a couple of my customers have recaro baby seats. they look just like a really nice racing style seat, with nice perforated mesh material to keep them cool. odd though that the only people who have them have cars with rear ac and dvd anyway.
http://www.recaro-cs.com/us/product/convertibles.html
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  #9  
Old 08-06-2011, 04:15 PM
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Re: Rear A/C

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92snowmachine View Post
you could always use something like this
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Unive...Q5fAccessories
all you have to do is run a low and high side line to it from your existing lines, that's how newer cars run their rear ac, and how they did it all the way back to the 50s. any competent ac shop should be able to tie into your existing lines and run new ones to the trunk, you could mount this on the rear deck or below it with some venting going up.
You might need to have the amount of refrigerant charge adjusted as well to compensate for the larger system. It won't be much, probably no more than half a pound of juice, but something to account for nevertheless.

If you are anywhere that salt/snow or corrosion are a problem, i.e. the Rust Belt, I would suggest using rubber lines and leave as little metal running outside the vehicle that you possibly can. Run them inside if you can get away with it.
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Last edited by Nemesis Destiny; 08-06-2011 at 04:24 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-06-2011, 04:21 PM
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Re: Rear A/C

Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess View Post

'


I wouldn't think it would be too effective. The extra duct work would reduce the overall efficiency and airflow.

What I have done in the past in this situation is to set the temperature at its lowest fan at max and push the DEF button.

This sends the air up the windshield towards the roof and back. The same with the side window defrosters. Once it car is cooled, adjust as needed.

The RECIRC button also helps the keep the cool air in the car.


I giant Slurpee couldn't hurt in the meantime.
Your best bet will probably be to crack your sunroof and/or back windows for a few minutes to vent out the hot air, then close them once the air starts blowing nice and cold.

I will also point out that setting the fan to maximum is actually WARMER than somewhere in the middle. The air passes through the evaporator too fast and doesn't have time to cool enough. This is true of pretty much all A/C systems.

I have a fair amount of experience servicing A/C on all kinds of things, so this is just from my experience. YMMV.
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1994 LSI The legendary "Shotgun Slade" 110k mi and still going strong!

2005 Outback XT Limited 5MT, Obsidian Black Pearl, 211k km, daily driver.
1999 Mazda MX5 base 5MT, Twilight Blue Metallic, 152k km. "Twilight Sparkle" Summer daily driver!
2007 Honda CR-V, some awful shade of light green *yawn*

1992 LS-L Touring, Ebony Mica, 176k kms. Parts car. SCRAPPED.
1992 LS-L, Dark Teal, 367k km. "Wintergreen" the winter beater.*SCRAPPED due to rust*
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