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  #31  
Old 03-22-2004, 07:41 PM
slacker
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Re: Tranny Plumbing

Admittedly I'm a SVX 4EAT Noob (but senior Shade Tree rated), and logic tells me the extermal cooler should come after the radiator cooler. By running it from external cooler through the radiator cooler should increase the temperature since the radiator is already preheated by the engine coolant. Maybe in the cooler Canadian climate, didn't think BC got that cold, at least not around Victoria and Vancouver (my Silver Bullet ran fine in -5F when I picked it up in Chicago). But what do I know.

Regarding an internal tranny filter I haven't found it yet, can someone point me in the general direction, and perhaps have a Soobie part number so I can get one and know what I'm looking for. Am presently engaged in hands-on self taught Transmission 101.

Am very interested in the final failure analysis, an external cooler is next up on my radar screen.

Sorry to hear your luck runs in two's.
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  #32  
Old 03-22-2004, 07:54 PM
manofmayo manofmayo is offline
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alot of folks around here use the Permacool AT Filter. Do a search and you'll come up w/ the part number. I've seen prices as low as $35 for the kit.

Some people even add a temp gauge at the filter.
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  #33  
Old 03-22-2004, 08:07 PM
slacker
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$EAT Filter

Perhaps I misread somethiing, I thought an internal filter (inside the the 4EAT) was mentioned, and that's what I haven't found yet.

Agree about the ATF temperature gauge, surprised the engineers didn't include that in the design (engine oil too).
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  #34  
Old 03-22-2004, 11:43 PM
mile-hi-bri mile-hi-bri is offline
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internal filter

Are you talking about the filter inside the pan?
Just drain, then pull the pan and you will see a silver colored, tin object about 3" x 8" bolted to the bottom of the tranny. It is not really rectangular, but kind of shaped like a dog-leg? It is held on w/4 bolts.
There is a steel line that crosses over(under) the filter. This must be removed before the filter can come out. It is held in place by 2 bolts. All these bolts use a 10mm socket.
It is very obvious how to get it all out when you see it. Just watch out for the fluid drips. And make sure the o-ring comes out w/the old filter. A new o-ring is supplied w/ the new filter.
The filter is available from SOA or any good auto parts store. I have done many and use Purolator. About $25.
Good luck. It is simple to do!
mile-hi-bri - Brian
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  #35  
Old 03-23-2004, 08:37 AM
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The theory around the External first is that the fluid should be kept warm enough to ensure the Torque Lock still occurs, so on colder days, the RAD will actually warm the fluid back up.

I'm not too sure what the best method would be to get rid of the heat. The weather here in BC is always pretty average, and he told me he may set it up different if we lived elsewhere. Like remove the rad loop for Southern Cali.

And yes, there is a screen type filter in the Trany, and I'm getting that replaced aswell as adding a new external filter.
Mine is the B&M, and PermaCool sells the same kit.


Status, Mechanic was having some issues, hopefully it will be done today.
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Last edited by CDG; 03-23-2004 at 08:43 AM.
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  #36  
Old 03-23-2004, 09:13 AM
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Re: $EAT Filter

Quote:
Originally posted by slacker
Perhaps I misread somethiing, I thought an internal filter (inside the the 4EAT) was mentioned, and that's what I haven't found yet.
here is the link to the internal filter: http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=182-A

It is #10 in the diagram and on the list and is called a "strainer assembly-oil". Part #13 is the o-ring.
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Last edited by svxcess; 03-23-2004 at 09:16 AM.
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  #37  
Old 03-23-2004, 09:33 AM
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mbtoloczko mbtoloczko is offline
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Chris,

I think the choice of ordering of the ext cooler and rad cooler will depend quite a bit on the climate you drive. If you expect that the car will be driven in hot weather, you're probably best off putting the ext cooler last so that the rad cooler doesn't reheat the ATF that has already been cooled. However, this arrangement isn't so good for weather below 45F. The coolant stays below the TC lockup temperature (and below the optimum efficiency temperature). Where I live, I have to deal with both extremes. My solution was to put the ext cooler after the rad cooler, and then install a by-pass thermostat on the ext cooler. With this arrangement, the ext cooler only gets to cool the ATF when the ATF temp rises above 165F. It worked really well last winter. The ATF temp at the tranny inlet was consistently around 150-155F even in very cold temperatures.
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  #38  
Old 03-23-2004, 09:34 AM
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Re: Strainer

Thanks I'd checked the other sub-assy's (oil pan, pump, housing) but didn't look at Control Valve assy.. Googled and found a WIX#5896 and NAPA #ATP18561 (while unsuccessfully looking for the Puralator #), and also found an interesting SVX site < autopartsauthority.com >
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  #39  
Old 03-23-2004, 12:43 PM
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I agree with the Ext cooler position, the thought was that the trany fluid is going to be cooled by both, the ext cooler will not bring the fluid down below what the rad will be doing. Now this may be incorrect, but without measuring the tempurature of the Radiator bottom, its hard top say.

I figured it this way, the external cooler will do the most work, then the rad will only do a little, only when the weather is cold, and on the highway, will the rad loop actually add heat back to the trany fluid.
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  #40  
Old 03-26-2004, 08:35 PM
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OK, Got my car back, new trany in, thanks Dan, and its working pretty great. It doesn't have the Level10 valve body, but it shifts pretty smooth. I get the occasional flare from 2nd to 3rd, but Thats probably expected in my driving.

I have to say I really missed driving the SVX, and my girlfriend was so happy for me, since I stopped my moping

Q#1: How did I blow the tranny?
A#1: NFI, he says its was hooked up right, and there was fluid in the filter. But he did not test the flow, as I had already removed the filter from the loop.
Q#2: Is the filter hooked up now, and is it working?
A#2: Yes its hooked up now, pretty interesting plumbing work, will take picture and post later. And yes its working.
FYI. During the trany flush, preasure at idle on the trany line is 30 PSI, which I understand is normal.
Q#3: Then why the **** did the trany go chris?
A#3: Well since all the plumbing was replaced it has only been speculated that I may have sliced into the inner portion of one of the hoses while pushing it onto a sharp edged fitting. Another option could be the fact that I introduced B&M TrickShift Synthetic fluid during the quick drain and fill process, which loosened things up, and plugged filter. Like I said, I drove the car for over 1 hour at 80 mph, and felt no issues. If I had no flow, I think it probably would have died way before that.

So I will be monitoring the trany very carefully from now on to see how is working, I will most likely be adding a preasure and temp gauge to the trany line, to see where it goes.
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  #41  
Old 03-27-2004, 02:15 AM
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Alycone Alycone is offline
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I was wondering about a pressure gauge, it'd be nice to know when there's a occlusion.

Still not sure I understand your tranny's sudden death.
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  #42  
Old 03-27-2004, 04:36 AM
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Bah!, subaru told my independent dealer, I had no internal atf filter, when I tried to get it replaced....
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  #43  
Old 03-27-2004, 07:42 AM
slacker
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Re: Internal Filter

Henry technically they're correct, it's not a filter, instead appears to be a complex sump (identified as a strainer) to prevent foreign material from gettiing into the valve body.

I was lost and couldn't find one till Mile ^ Bri & SVXCESS pointed me in the right direction (a few 9 ~ 7 posts ago).

Discovered (too late) that NAPA includes not only the o-ring but also the pan gasket in their P/N ATP18561 for $25.49. Could have saved $12.75 on the pan gasket from the Subaru dealer.
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