The thingy scratching my window

[Coan]

The OEM replacement pads aren't too spendy, but they do add up if you replace them all (front and rear, inner and outer pads).

You don't have to remove the glass to get to them. IIRC you just unbolt the brackets holding the two inner ones on and then the window can be pulled slightly inward to access the outers (with the window down of course). I was able to remove the outers by prying on them with a flat blade screw driver. They clip into the sheet metal, but also have adhesive on the back side that hold them in place.

It's a pretty easy job, I've done all of mine. Unfortunately it was too late for my front driver's side window.

[injuhneer]

Originally Posted by Coan

The OEM replacement pads aren't too spendy, but they do add up if you replace them all (front and rear, inner and outer pads).

You don't have to remove the glass to get to them. IIRC you just unbolt the brackets holding the two inner ones on and then the window can be pulled slightly inward to access the outers (with the window down of course). I was able to remove the outers by prying on them with a flat blade screw driver. They clip into the sheet metal, but also have adhesive on the back side that hold them in place.

It's a pretty easy job, I've done all of mine. Unfortunately it was too late for my front driver's side window.

Both my fronts windows are lightly scuffed. I am hoping to polish them because they aren't too bad but at least there are still good clean glass parts out there to be had.

-Mike O

[NikFu S.]

I haven't fixed the glass yet but I had Novus look at it and they said it could be repaired.

[Tapani]

Originally Posted by Coan

The OEM replacement pads aren't too spendy

Does anyone have the part numbers, please ?

Thanks,

Tapani

[icingdeath88]

From this thread: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=36285

Outer Stabilizer Part # 62310PA000
Inner Stabilizer RHS # 62320PA000
Inner Stabilizer LHS # 62320PA010

Order the first (outer) one, for each of them that needs replacing. The others come with an extra bracket part that doesn't actually need to be replaced. Read more here:

Originally Posted by 1986nate

Just want to let those people who may be wanting to do this in the future, the old inner stabilizers can simply be popped out and the new ones (technically outer) just popped in. So if you want all new ones for your front windows, you only need to order 8 of these
Outer Stabilizer Part # 62310PA000
and none of the inner stabilizers... I can add pics when I get to it to show what I'm talking about

It will save you about $15 if ordering from one of the online dealers if I remember correctly.

[dbarnblatt]

Here are a few pictures with the pads removed. Remove the inner pads first and then the window can be pulled inwards, or removed entirely (recommended) to reach the other ones.

What I ended up doing was removing the inner pads the outer pads, the window, and the outer weatherstrip that runs along the door. And replacing the pads and the worn outer weatherstrip.

It is all very easy to remove, and removing everything allows you to clean all the dust and dirt off of the parts and the window, and there will be a lot. It has to be done or the problem will just come back.


Pads and outer weatherstrip removed.


photo 3 by dbarnblatt, on Flickr


New pads and weatherstrip installed and everything cleaned up and ready to go:


SVX Window by dbarnblatt, on Flickr

[injuhneer]

Nice photos. That helps.

Still, the design is poor. Let me restate that.

I think we can do better.

-Mike O

[NikFu S.]

Some soft rubber rollers might be better.

[injuhneer]

I'll add some photos to illustrate my fix but after studying the lift and these blocks it became apparent that dirt was only one problem. All factors considered the main culprit is the small contact area. All of the pressure to guide the glass rests at the pad contact point and the lift rails. Add the compression of the cloth cover and dirt to the equation and you get an abrasive pad. The pad face is under pressure and cannot clear debris like it should because the fibers are compressed.

The goal was to stop abrading the window. To correct this a wider contact area is needed. I have two possible long term fixes for the interior pads:

A) machine new pads from nylon or acetal that are much longer and a bit thinner. The surface area will be larger to give more bearing and less crush to the pile on the face.
B) use the existing brackets and string a tube or channel between them and install the pile seal across the entire span.

If the interior pads don't clean up nicely (I used the same brass wire suede brush I use on the interior to clean the pads) there is a nice fix I picked up from a friend. Clean the old cloth/pile off the nylon pad and wrap the loop (soft) part of some Velcro around it and reinstall. It is nylon and will last a good long time.

Velcro loop wrapped pad


For the exterior the pads were removed entirely. The trim was removed and cleaned. A pile seal (brush) was added just below the factory wiper on the bare metal and runs the entire length of the windows. A second strip was added behind the factory felt wiper for a bit more pressure. The contact of the brush holds the window stable without the pile being completely crushed. This should allow the pile seal to support the window but still allow debris to clear; this rather than the pads which became compacted.


Pile seal installed on trim


It certainly works in testing. The long term obviously will take time but it is a start.

-Mike O

[injuhneer]

So I completed the same mod on the right hand side.

I noticed a light scratch on the right rear window? Did Subaru use the same pad back there?

-Mike O

[dbarnblatt]

Originally Posted by injuhneer

So I completed the same mod on the right hand side.

I noticed a light scratch on the right rear window? Did Subaru use the same pad back there?

-Mike O

The same type of pads are used on the rear windows as well.

Do you have a source for the brush pile seal you used? I think you may have found a solution!

[icingdeath88]

Very cool, if it works well. Do check back in and let us know how it goes after a few months. Is the pile seal attached to the window weatherstripping? Kind of difficult to see from the pics.

[injuhneer]

Originally Posted by dbarnblatt

The same type of pads are used on the rear windows as well.

Do you have a source for the brush pile seal you used? I think you may have found a solution!

Yes. It is called fenestration seal or pile seal.

You can get yards of the stuff from ACE Hardware for just a few bucks. One package will do all the windows.

-Mike O

[injuhneer]

Originally Posted by icingdeath88

Very cool, if it works well. Do check back in and let us know how it goes after a few months. Is the pile seal attached to the window weatherstripping? Kind of difficult to see from the pics.

Yes. I took the strip out and cleaned it (soap, water, scrub rinse, let dry in the sun). That leaves a nice clean aluminum surface for the seal.

The seal is adhesive backed pile seal from ACE hardware. It is for sliding doors and windows so it should handle the weathering.

Cost me about $4 for 17ft.

The only additional step is to adjust the window track alignment so the glass contacts the upper seal correctly.

Oh, and I also rolled up a couple of short pieces of the pile and put it in the back of the sliding door lock knob. The felt tape was completely disintegrated and the knobs rattled in their tracks. Not any more :-) I suppose some of the Velcor loop tape would work as well.

-Mike O

[injuhneer]

So I repeated the procedure on the passenger door. Works great.

On to the rear windows! I need to take all the panels out anyway to replace the blown/disintegrated 6x9s.

-Mike O