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#61
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Race concepts uses bradi rotors, and they are $100 +$16 shipping. The other bradi rotors on ebay are $129 + $24 shipping. so i would save $37 with raceconcepts. Also, raceconcepts still has very good feedback on ebay, although alot of it may have been obtained by the previous owners.
-Evan
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`92 pearlie 220k Tranny Cooler, shift kit, stage 1v4, d/s rotors, axxis pads, Perrin Pulley '00 GMC Sonoma ZR2. |
#62
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well i take that back.. Porter had a very bad experience when the company was just changing hands. However, as this thread indicates http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...284#post225284 Ben seems to have been able to do pretty well with SVX owners since then... Here is Porter's side to the story: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...t=raceconcepts
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Greg 97 Red SVX LSi clean 96 Black SVX LSi beater 90 Red Eclipse GSX track ho 99 Ford F250 work horse My Locker Last edited by drivemusicnow; 01-03-2005 at 09:34 PM. |
#63
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Well, I finally got back from my vacation to my parents' in California, and managed to get everything installed! The installation went pretty well, sans the two bolts on the caliper frames in front...
They were baked into their threads so well that a hammer-to-the-breaker-bar action wouldn't even loosen them. On the passenger side, I had to use the floor jack to apply the appropriate leverage to the breaker bar to loosen the bolts. On the driver side, this wouldn't work, of course (right-tighty, lefty-loosy!) So, I had to use the breaker bar and the bar for the floor jack, and use a little downward transverse leverage via the frame... Anyway, it sucked, but it had to be done to get the old rotors off and the new ones on. I've got (once again): Akebono ProACT pads in the front and the rear, zinc-coated slotted front rotors from Dayle (they're Bradi, I believe), and Valvoline SynPower brake fluid. After the install, the brake pedal went straight to floor a few times, until adequate pressure built up. Then they got incredibly firm! I took it for a spin around the neighborhood, and noticed a definite howling from the slotted rotors upon braking. The first few times that I came to a complete stop, I also noticed a very loud grinding noise from the front brakes that also made the car shake a little. I continued driving, cautiously, and both the grinding and howling went away. There is no audible howling from the brakes anymore, they're incredibly firm, and I definitely feel more confident stopping. There's still a little bit of a grinding noise when coming to a total stop and then allowing the car to roll forward a few inches, but I've heard this before, and also heard it go away before. So, no worries. I just wish that I could have fixed my cigarette lighter first, so that I could GTech my 60-0 braking distance/G's before and after the install. However, I figured that the ability to stop at all was more important than a functional cigarette lighter. Thanks for all the help guys. |
#64
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on the rotors. Break in your new pads like suggested in the instructions and be easy on them for the 1st hundred miles or so if possible. ....enjoy
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My mom will forever live in me and never be forgotten, one day Ill see her again CLICK the LINK below to Visit the SVX Store: http://www.planetsvx.com http://www.motorsportwarehouse.com/svx/sig2.jpg Cars in the garage: 92 Toyota Soarer Single Turbo JDM RHD 70 Boss 302 Mustang 39k original miles 97 SVX Lsi 92 Liquid Silver Murano-ized (1st of its kind) 71 Cougar Xr7 Conv 351c 4v 4spd 69 SS Camaro 350 71 Nissan RHD Fairlady Z 70 Stang Fastback 70 Amc AMX 390 71 240z 89 Conquest TSi w/ 5.0 v8 swap 84 Mustang GT Turbo conv "good, if it bleeds, we can kill it ....." |
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