Aluminum Radiators with 5 pass trans cooler! - Page 58

Cappy · #**856** 05-17-2005, 01:20 PM

They just got a second shipment in yesterday, so I went ahead and ordered one. It's the same design as the originals, so they gave me the $450 + shipping price that they had on the first buy - especially when I told them I was a registered member of this forum (membership HAS it's privileges). And they're out of caps, so they said they'll ship it without a cap & then ship the cap in a few days. My old cap will work, right? Now let's see...I also have to bend some "tabs" or something on the bottom, and put an adapter on the overflow fitting, and is there anything else?

Oh yea, do I have to remove the waterfall to get the old radiator out?

Earthworm · #**857** 05-17-2005, 01:37 PM

I was under the impression that they weren't selling any more rads until they fix the main problems.

The grill does not have to be removed to remove the radiator.

#**858** 05-17-2005, 04:23 PM

i just talked to them and i should be able to work a better deal than $450 each i sell their protege5 rad. all the time for around $415- chris @ puresports

Cappy · #**859** 05-18-2005, 07:18 AM

Go for it, Chris. And good luck. I would imagine I'll have to drain out the antifreeze (just had a flush & fill in January) , and some of the ATF. Do I add the same amount of ATF back in, or should I expect to add another quart? Maybe I'll just go ahead and do the transmission service since I'll be draining some anyhow.

Oh yea, does the radiator come out from the top or the bottom?

lhopp77 · #**860** 05-18-2005, 09:08 AM

It's really hard to believe that they would produce a second batch without fixing the problems. I would say they have some serious quality control problems or maybe just don't care.

Lee

Cappy · #**861** 05-18-2005, 11:25 AM

Naw, from what I understand, these things are shipped from Australia. They probably started a second run prior to fully understanding what the initial problems were. From reading thru this thread, I'd say they just began to fully understand all the issues a month or two ago. Heck, these babies were probably already on the boat by then. I figure it's no big deal anyhow. I'll just use my current cap for a while, bend a few tabs on the bottom (which I'm hoping to understand better when I see the problem), splice a tube adapter on top, and be good to go. I mean these issues don't seem like THAT much of a problem, do they?

lhopp77 · #**862** 05-18-2005, 12:20 PM

You won't be able to use your cap without cutting off the tabs or bending your hood. Also, they knew early on that there was a problem with the radiators---they should have gone back and remeasured the OEM radiator that they had before making some more substandard products.

I have still not put mine on and am thinking about selling them.

Lee

RojoRocket · #**863** 05-18-2005, 05:14 PM

My advice, after purchase, and being part of these hundreds of posts, would be to grind down the pads the radiator rests on just a "smidge" as one of the previous purchasers did (can't recall user this sec). I would have done this if the rad wasn't already in place. The other "modifications" include bending the fan mounting tabs (pliers, vicegrips) enough to mount the fans (another "smidge"). This is done prior to slipping the rad in, and is no biggie. And enjoy!

Glenn

Cappy · #**864** 05-19-2005, 07:28 AM

Thanks Glen, that's what I'll do. And being an eastern Ohio boy, I know what a "smidge" is, so it should be easy. (smidge = 1/8 inch - I've bought OEM parts that fit worse than that!) I know the lower mounts you are refering to. I grabbed the factory service manual & looked up how to remove/install the radiator, and now I understand what you guys are talking about. I also see that the radiator is removed from the top, but some work needs to also be done underneath. Looks like a very straightforward procedure.

I would be happy to scan/post the service manual instructions in this thread if that would help, unless that's illegal or something.

#**865** 05-23-2005, 05:09 PM

Well I am glad to see that the caps are working out great for everyone. I am sorry it has taken me so long to respond to any posts, I have been out for two weeks. Yes we are selling the SVX's again, we have 2 or so of the old batch in, which is what was bought, for the cheap group pirce, if someone will understands that there are a few fitment issues with it and wants to buy it for a cheaper pirce, then we will, for the two we have in stock, but the radiator bought by capuano mentioned in the post, is from the old batch, it is not the new batch that we are getting in. The new batch is fixed, we have addressed the cap fitment issues, by shortening up the top tank to clear the hood, and the lower fan mounting tabs have been moved also.

Like I said it shouldnt have happened a first time, but I will make sure it wont happen a second time.

Ihopp77 you really dont know what your talking about, last time I checked you did not work for PWR, correct? So I am wondering how you would know that we knew about these problems before hand and should have measured the OEM radiator, we made one, had it checked, was told it fit, so we made more. I am failing to see how we could have know there were problems with it.

lhopp77 · #**866** 05-23-2005, 06:12 PM

It was indicated that PWR had an OEM radiator for size checks. If this is not correct information then I retract my statement. IF you did have an OEM radiator for measurement and fitment, then I stand by what I have said and think that any journeyman machine/metalworker could get the fit dead on. Do the new ones also have a shorter inlet neck?

Lee

#**867** 05-24-2005, 09:16 AM

Yes PWR Australia had the OEM radiator when they designed and produced the first radiator, then it was test fit, and we were told that it fit, so we made more, like I said before, when your told it fits, your going to think it fits right? Your right any metal worker with experience would have gotten it dead on the first time, because we havent been making radiators for over 30 years now, and we dont produce radiators for Robby Gordon, Daemon Jeffries, the Honda Race team, Matt Maladin, countless drag racers, quadcross racers, motocross racers, trophy trucks, sand rails, etc. Ya, what would we know about metal working.......

Like I said, the top tank has been shortened up to fix the hood clearance issues, I am not exactly seeing why we would need to shorten up the filler neck also.

lhopp77 · #**868** 05-24-2005, 09:48 AM

I rest my case. As a machinist--my measurements tell me I am correct.

Lee

LarryIII · #**869** 05-24-2005, 10:34 AM

I received the radiator cap. It went inside the box with the radiator in the basement until I'm ready to install it.

TomsSVX · #**870** 05-24-2005, 12:03 PM

Josh they are not talking about the filler neck but the inlet neck at the tp of the tank...flows coolant in from the engine? That could use a solid inch off of that and no more than3/8" on the tabs. The only other thing was the overflow spout could be a little larger so we don't have to rig an adapter.

Tom