5mt crossmember schematic

[SoCoNoHa]

I'm looking for a diagram or schematic or measurements or anything that would help me construct a crossmember for my 5mt swap. I've only got jack stands and my SVX is my daily babe, I'm afraid building the cross member as I go won't be an option.
I've read the hardest part of the swap is the pedals, but I've already installed a set from a 3rd gen legacy (2000-2004US) and almost no modification was required. All that's left is to modify the rear diff and fab up a crossmember.

If push comes to shove I'd be interested in purchasing a x-member if someone has one kicking around.

Update: My transmission has had the radish, so it looks like I'll be doing the swap sooner than expected. Once I get a crossmember mocked up I'll post pics and specs here, and will record in detail the process of converting the rear diff.

[SoCoNoHa]

WOOOHOOO! Now THAT feels good.

[Dr. Spaceman]

Originally Posted by SoCoNoHa

Once I get a crossmember mocked up I'll post pics and specs here, and will record in detail the process of converting the rear diff.

Following with extreme interest.

[SoCoNoHa]

I got the rear diff sorted out. It would seem the easier way to go about this is to take the 'carrier' and 'side plates' from the SVX rear diff and transplant them into the case from the donor car, this way the pinion doesn't need to be touched. My first time rebuilding a diff, so I'm all about easy.

First pic: the reason I'm not a photographer. This is the 'ring' separated from the non-LSD 'carrier.' These are held together with eight[8] 14mm bolts. The LSD has VERY SLIGHTLY longer bolts than the non-LSD [second pic]

Third thru sixth: these illustrate the interior difference between the two cases. The open diff has nubs that indent where the side plate bolts enter the case, the svx one had no such nubs. They need to be ground down in order to slide the larger LSD carrier into the case.

Seventh pic: shows the ground away nubs

Eighth pic: side plates to be moved from svx diff to donor case. These have thin gasket-like shims to adjust lash, both of my diffs had 2 on each plate, so I just kept those the same. I didn't really notice a difference between the two sets, but I read they had to go so I swapped em.

So in summation, the back cover and side plates come off of both diffs. That will allow you to finagle the ring and carrier out. The ring from the donor diff goes into the carrier from the svx, USING THE LONGER BOLTS. Grind away the nubs on the left inside of donor case. Reinstall ring with LSD carrier and install side plates [with shims] from the svx diff. Reseal the back plate. Reinstall diff into vehicle, test forward and reverse gears with car raised in jack stands.

I haven't tested it yet, hopefully today I'll be able to find some time after work to get the crossmember done. Also I think my linkage needs to extend about 3.75 inches? It's from a 99 LGT.

[SoCoNoHa]

Images continued

[SoCoNoHa]

Also got my $80 'stage 2' clutch and pressure plate[lol] mounted, as well as the throw out bearing with some sweet STI pink grease. Oops, hopefully my pilot bearing isn't ruined....

[SoCoNoHa]

I'll hopefully be able to find time tonight to deal with my rusted headers; all four bolts connecting to the rest of the exhaust snapped off...
Also gonna get my linkage sorted after I lower the !EG33+5MT! back in. Maybe I'll finally get those crossmember measurements...

[SoCoNoHa]

For the clutch master cylinder all I needed was a 1.5 inch hole saw and a large flathead screwdriver. I have been driving around with a useless third pedal for a while now, so I already had the 3/8th's inch holes drilled for the pedalset studs. I pulled the brake lines out of the nearest couple clips and used the screwdriver to bend them slightly up and to the right. Next, a one and a half inch hole right between the two studs... careful now...
Then I slipped the master cylinder into the hole at an angle to clear the lines and noticed my reservoir was too tall. My solution? Slice out a 2x2 inch patch of insulation interfering with the reservoir cap. After that it kind of 'fell' into place, with some love taps. The brake lines seem happy, and the bracket on the hydraulic line lines up perfectly with a ground bolt on the SVX!
Then I tossed the engine back in.
Also I picked up steel for the linkage and crossmember.
I'm getting close...

[SoCoNoHa]

Back where she belongs

[Crazy_pilot]

Originally Posted by SoCoNoHa

I'll hopefully be able to find time tonight to deal with my rusted headers; all four bolts connecting to the rest of the exhaust snapped off...
Also gonna get my linkage sorted after I lower the !EG33+5MT! back in. Maybe I'll finally get those crossmember measurements...

If you haven't dealth with this yet the solution I came up with was to grind the bolts off flush and drill and tap the flanges for new bolts. Sort of like a red-neck helicoil.

[SoCoNoHa]

Oh yea, I like the sound of that, especially considering how nicely my manifolds are cleaning up. I figured they were toast.

Just to be clear, you tapped into the frozen bolts?

[SVXDoc]

It would still be nice to get an SVX transmission crossmember schematic for the 5MT conversion folks out there if possible.

At one time, I think TomSVX was manufacturing them for sale, although he may not be willing to part with the schematic if it is part of his business.

If you do find one, please post it to the site, thanks.

SVXDoc

[SoCoNoHa]

Originally Posted by SVXDoc

If you do find one, please post it to the site, thanks.

SVXDoc

I'll probly be working on the crossmember tonight, and I'll be going off the design below. Can't remember whose this is, but it's straightforward and I have the materials to get pretty close. I'll post a schematic for my crossmember and anything else I come across.

[SoCoNoHa]

Hit a little snag last night, just when I was ready to put it all back together too!

My driveshaft bottoms out in the trans. It's from a 99 LGT, and it's not hitting on the dust shield 'cup,' it appears to be the snout of the shaft hitting inside the trans. It's so slight, it doesn't start hitting till the carrier bearing is almost all the way up. Since I've got the carrier bearing lined up primo, I've elected to gnaw off about 1/2 an inch from the snout, hopefully that will give me some clearance... Any input on this course of action?

[SoCoNoHa]

So here's my crossmember finally! It's more of a first draft just to get the car on the road. I've welded my trans mount directly to the crossmember so... I'll get back to you on the ride quality...

There's about 19 1/8 inches between the side of the svx trans mount where I welded and the torque bar. I used a 1 inch tube of 1/8th inch steel, seemed sturdy enough in short pieces. The passenger side cross bar goes parallel with the car front to back, and attaches right at the bend on both crossmember and torque bar. The driver side cross bar has to angle outward from the svx trans crossmember because the manual trans mount has an uneven side. This puts the attachment point just outside of the bend on the torque bar.

For the mount, I welded the metal piece that bolts to the trans directly to the cross bars. This means I won't be using the rubber part of the mount, and will probly provide quite a rough ride. But like I said, I need this car on the road yesterday. I'll put up with any vibration with a smile as long as I'm the one doing the shifting! At least until the next nice weekend.

I recommend tacking things in place with everything bolted snugly. I tried to mark it and tack it off the car, just wasted time breaking apart tack welds.

You'll also notice I notched out the svx trans crossmember. This is because there's a couple studs and a flange on the 5mt that it would otherwise hang up on.