Crisis!

[kwren]

Originally Posted by wdb

They can't diagnose an apparent electrical problem (starter remains engaged) with a meter, but instead they need a $400 starter? That sounds to me like a perfect reason to find another shop. Preferably one that understands basic electrical theory.

"Story of our lives" Find a shop that knows... Testing electrical circuit is not a lost art for the mechanics profession... It never existed.
Actually nuts and bolts is a different creature than that "invisible current flow" one...

[NikFu S.]

They broke my H6 manifold cover.

[Cam]

Make them replace it. That's bull...i would demand all my money back. they provided no service to you.

[NikFu S.]

I've not paid them anything yet.

I went to check on the car today and swap some wires around, verify the deadness of the starter, the cover was just sitting on top of the manifold with the hood fully closed. Cracked it right up.

[wdb]

TWO reasons to get a flatbed over there asap.

[NikFu S.]

My starter came in today. I'm going to attempt to install it in the dealers lot Saturday afternoon. The temperature will be the biggest problem. I need to find something to prop the hood open since the struts fail when they get cold.

I had a looooooong chat with the mechanic who looked at it, he says he didn't see any other problems with anything. Overall decent guy. Says the hood fell when he was looking at it. That's probably why the cover is broken.
Time for a FB hood.

[XT6Wagon]

I use a large ice scraper for a hood prop on mine. Blade goes into the crack next to the fusebox and the brush end has a rounded tip that goes into a hole on the hood. Also works for scraping ice... assuming it doesn't do the usual and freeze the doors shut.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by NikFu S.

I need to find something to prop the hood open since the struts fail when they get cold.

What works great is a mini vise grip, about 4-5" long. When the hood id opened, it just clamps at the top of the polished shaft where it goes into the hood strut housing. You only need one.

Small and out of the way when using it. Once you adjust it to the correct tension, just put it in your glove compartment until you need it. Available at most hardware stores or home centers. Saw an entire bin of them at Lowe's today for only $1.99




,

[NikFu S.]

Sweet advice. Never would have thought of that.

[NikFu S.]

I've been scouring the forums trying to find the size of the heads for the starter studs (no luck so far, someone should post a starter install How-To ) so I can be a little better prepared today, what I did find was this:

9.*Now to disable the Torque Control for the Auto tranny, you need to make a jumper from the ECU Connector wire B59-20, to ECU Connector wire B60-7, this will allow full advancement of the ignition timing.*
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/fil...k369/16578.jpg

Something I missed. What is the benefit of this?
Black/yellow, green/white, am I seeing this correctly?

[NikFu S.]

Starter install was a success. Started on the first go. Relay mod was not plugged in.

Now to source a drive shaft...

[NikFu S.]

Went for a test drive around the block. Car seemed fine until I got back to my garage. Seems an issue popped up, but I'm not sure how to identify it.

I released the clutch, gave it a bit of gas, car didn't move, made a bit of a thud and moved a bit. Seems like the clutch has suddenly become extremely worn, or perhaps the drive line seized for a moment... The former is more likely, and less assuring.

[NikFu S.]

Went for a longer drive, took my old starter to the O'Reillys and got my core refund, car seems completely normal aside from the drive shaft and the odor of an electrical burn out.

Crisis averted.

Starter relay mod still not connected. Doesn't seem to be a need for it.