Tranny removal

[elninoalex]

Can anyone give me the step by step on how to remove the tranny from a 92 AWD. I am going to pull my good one out of my wrecked car and have it put in my new one. But the tranny is in my wreck in my backyard so I have to remove it. I have pulled a couple manual trannys but not an AT or AWD. Any tips are appreciated. Thanks.


Stephen

[lee]

Automatic Transmission/Transaxle: Service and Repair

1. Position vehicle on hoist. Do not lift.
2. Disconnect hood damper, then open hood fully.
3. Disconnect battery ground cable, then remove throttle body cover.
4. Remove air intake boot, then engine hook under throttle body.
5. Remove pitching stopper and bracket. Disconnect transmission air vent hoses from bracket.
6. Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
a. Transmission harness.
b. Oxygen sensors.
c. Vehicle speed sensor 2.
d. Transmission ground.
7. Disconnect PCV hose, then blow-by hose from crankcase to collector.
8. Raise and support vehicle, then remove lower starter mounting bolts.
9. Lower vehicle, then disconnect power supply terminal and magnet coil connector.
10. Remove upper starter mounting bolts, then the starter.
11. Remove torque converter cover hole plug, then remove torque converter to drive plate attaching bolts. Separate torque converter from drive plate.
12. Install engine support fixture No. 927670000 or equivalent, then remove upper right side transmission to engine bolts.
13. Remove fluid level gauge from transmission and front differential, then raise and support vehicle.
14. Remove under cover, then oxygen sensor harness from clip.
15. Remove front exhaust pipes and rear catalyst converter, then the front exhaust cover.
16. Remove propeller shaft to companion flange attaching bolts, then the center bearing to body bolts. Remove propeller shaft from transmission.
17. Remove selector cable from selector lever assembly, then the selector cable bracket from body.
18. Remove performance rod.
19. Remove front axle from transmission as follows:
a. Remove ball joint from knuckle arm of housing.
b. Remove stabilizer link from bracket, then the brake hose and ABS sensor harness from start bracket.
c. Remove spring pin holding axle shaft into front differential drive shaft.
d. Remove axle shaft from transmission.
20. Disconnect transmission hoses from side of transmission, then remove lower side transmission to engine attaching bolts.
21. Place transmission jack under transmission, then remove rear crossmember to body bolts.
22. Remove transmission from vehicle. Move transmission and torque converter as a unit away from engine.
23. Reverse procedure to install.


The one change I would make to the above was once suggested by Beav and employed by me and others, is to ignore step 19 and instead pull the three bolts at the end of the lower A-arm. You can then pull out on the bottom far enough to get the axles loose.

You don't have to undo the hood parts, but you have to have something to keep the engine from falling forward if you don't have the factory engine support fixture. I used a long nylon strap clamp.

Final hint: when you put it back together, make d%#n sure the torque converter is fully seated or you will ruin the pump and extension shaft and maybe the converter too (DAMHIKIJK).

[Stevebsy]

This is VERY true! Push it on and turn it until it goes in, then turn it some more and it should go in farther. Just keep turning for awhile and you should be fine.

You can double check this when you start bringing the tranny/engine together. There should a small gap between the TC and the engine flexplate when they are fully mated. If, when you start bringing the tranny forward to the engine, you see that the TC and flexplate are touching, then you need to re-seat the TC farther. DO NOT use the bolts to pull it on if this is the case, or you'll really be sorry

Also, make sure the car is plenty high off the ground or the tranny will not fit under the front crossmember.

Myself, Lee, and Immortal_suby are a few who have done this in the home shop environment. The worst part I thought, was the exhaust removal, as it is all rusty, the bolts break, etc.. Other than that, if you are careful, it is not rocket science...

Originally posted by lee
Automatic Transmission/Transaxle: Service and Repair
Final hint: when you put it back together, make d%#n sure the torque converter is fully seated or you will ruin the pump and extension shaft and maybe the converter too (DAMHIKIJK).

[svx_commuter]

I haven't done the trans but I had the exhaust out a few times. If your exhaust is old, buy all new bolts and springs and gaskets. The old gaskets will start to leak soon if you reuse them because the joint was distrubed. There are 5 gaskets you need, 2 at the headers, 2 donuts at the single cats and 1 big donut at rear of the cat. Some exhaust header studs and nuts would be a good idea. There are 6 spring bolts, springs and nuts. I used a sawall to cut out the old bolts and cut / bent the heat shield on the big cat to get the new bolts in. The propeller shaft gets match marked before removal at the rear flange. The access hole for the TC / Flexplate bolts is on top of the engine under the throttle cables. The engine crank has to be turned to get the four bolts out. You can also remove them from under the car with a long thin 12mm box wrench.

[lee]

If you want to try to keep the old stuff, I recommend you acquire some PB Blaster penetrating catalyst. Spray it liberally and more than once (preferably over night then again next day). It's the best I've found - your mileage may vary.

The other thing people complain about (see svx_commuter's input above) is getting the 4 bolts off holding the TC to the flexplate. I did it from the top. I manually turned the throttle and wedged it fully open with an extra scredriver. Then I used a straight, 12mm racheting box end wrench to get the bolts loose (and tightened later).

I also used a motorcycle jack to hold the tranny as it came out/went back in. With the car on jack stands a traditional tranny jack won't work (or at least any I had access to). The bike jack has two flat arms that the pan will sit on to be reasonably stable, and rollers to get it out and in under the car.

Finally, since you will have what I assume are important parts of your body (to you and/or a significant other) under there, please make sure you use good jackstands, not a jack to hold it in the air. I even got some concrete blocks to locate in a few positions just in case a jackstand decided to go on vacation.

Of course if you can bench press 3500+, then feel free to ignore this last bit

[elninoalex]

for all the help. My budget is telling me that taking it to the dealer to get it done is not an option. I am going to do it myself this weekend. I figure if I can pull one out, I could do it again. By then, I should be able to put one back. And if I can't, I can flatbed it to the dealer and still save 2/3 the cost. Plus its a good excuse to buy a motorcycle jack, creeper and four more jack stands.

Stephen

[svx_commuter]

The PB Blaster works great. I recently bought a floor jack and I know they made a tranny cradle for it. It may be another option for you.

[svx_commuter]

Originally posted by lee

Final hint: when you put it back together, make d%#n sure the torque converter is fully seated or you will ruin the pump and extension shaft and maybe the converter too (DAMHIKIJK).

When I changed the engine in my car I had a similar problem putting the engine back. It would not drop into the pin holes easily. I could get one side or the other to go in but not both. I took it back aways from the pins and started over. Picked it up slightly and guided the top into place suing the starter bolt and other bolt up top, then let it down. It feel right into the pin holes and closed completely up all around the joint with no problem.

[subymtnguy]

Good luck on your project this weekend...Let us know how things go.

Thanks again for the fuel sending units!

[elninoalex]

I got the good tranny out of the smashed car Friday night. Not too bad. The torque converter bolts were tough to get a hold of, but everything else was pretty basic. I bought an ATV jack which is only 4" tall when down. Worked real well. Tommorrow I go to the next car. Thanks again for all the help.

Stephen

[Mr. Pockets]

This should prove to be a useful thread for me - once I actually get hold of a used tranny.

The only question I have is about step number 12:

'Install engine support fixture No. 927670000 or equivalent, then remove the upper right side treansmission to engine bolts.'

What is that tool? Is it necessary? Is it expensive? I'm assuming it's a dealer-only part. Is there a substitute I can use if I have to?

Thanks...

[Earthworm]

I'm assuming it's used to prevent the engine from crashing forward once the tranny is separate. I'm haven't gone through this procedure yet...*knock on wood"

[elninoalex]

I just used a block of wood on top of a jack under the oil pan and it worked just fine.

I am almost ready to unbolt tranny #2, but the tc bolts on this one are downright evil. I did the first one with a 1/4" drive ratchet but I think I am going to buy the ratcheting box wrench like Lee.

I didn't have an exhaust on the first car, but the exhaust on the second was no problem after spraying the penetrating lube the night before.

Unfortunately, I won't have anymore time until Wednesday to work on it. But hopefully I can get it back on the road then.

Stephen

[immortal_suby]

I used a piece of rope from the dogbone to the engine lift mount on the front by the alternator to keep it from rocking forward and destroying the radiator in case the piece of wood balanced on the jack holding up the front of the engine might slip.

[lee]

Since I never learned my knots, I used a nylon strap clamp found at most any hardware store for gluing up large unusual shapes - has a ratching mechanism. Used it the same way as immortal_suby - looping through the dogbone and through the hole by the alternator. Worried a bit about the stress on the throttle body, but sat like that for a couple of weeks, and no issues with about 3K miles since the installation.