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#18
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Painted the dash silver today (looks ok, not perfect but it doesn't need to be). The aluminum dash kit goes on tomorrow and I will be wetsanding the rest of the car.
Just got a set of rims too, will pick them up sometime this week. They're cheap, with cheap tires, but I think they'll look good. Kinda ricer-ish, but I'm getting a good deal on them, going to be a pain to clean though...
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-Steve Member #895(the member formerly known as BurgundyBeast) 01' MSM Lexus IS300 Last edited by SubaSteevo; 05-16-2005 at 12:08 PM. |
#20
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Another trick to see the inperfections of the body work is to shine a flashlight against the car in the dark.( don't aim the the light directly at the car, aim it from front to back) You will see the shadows of any raised body filler.
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#21
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Quote:
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. Subaru Ambassador 1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995..... Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan In-Service Date: January 2, 1997 "The Pristine Green Polo Machine” First Polo Green on the Network First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000) First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007) First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013) HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler. R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016 2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback 2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles. Plenty of parts, service and windshields. 4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001 My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX . . |
#22
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When can we see the finished product?
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#23
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I'd wait a little more....he started the painting on friday so he might just be finishing up.
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1993 25th Anniversary Edition # 156 of 301 ~ 121, 488 miles ( SOLD TO svxfiles 8/6/06) 2006 Subaru Impreza 2.5i....5spd - My daily driver 2006 Subaru Legacy 2.5i -7k miles..Mom's daily driver 2,543 Member of the SVX World Network |
#24
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Quote:
Pics and a how-to to come tomorrow! P.S. I love suspense!
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-Steve Member #895(the member formerly known as BurgundyBeast) 01' MSM Lexus IS300 |
#25
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Quote:
-Chike
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"Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something." - Plato 2013 Cosmic Blue 5spd Evo X GSR 2006 Galaxy Gray 6MT RX-8 (sold) 2006 Steel Gray WRX TR (sold) 1996 Brilliant Red SVX L (sold) |
#26
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Quote:
How many hours it's taken out of you?
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-SSSVX 92 LS-L TEAL since Aug '01 92 LS-L YELLOW since Mar '05 |
#27
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WAYYYY too many 1 hour sanding 2 hours of bondo 2 hours sanding 1 hour cleaning 4 hours masking/removal 2 hours primer 2 hours base 2 hours clear 1 hour reassembly/demasking Add in drying time and cleanup time and I bet I put in over 24 hours
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-Steve Member #895(the member formerly known as BurgundyBeast) 01' MSM Lexus IS300 |
#28
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So...where are the pics Steve?
-Chike
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"Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something." - Plato 2013 Cosmic Blue 5spd Evo X GSR 2006 Galaxy Gray 6MT RX-8 (sold) 2006 Steel Gray WRX TR (sold) 1996 Brilliant Red SVX L (sold) |
#29
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Ta da!
You can see the rest in my locker in the "Painting" folder, just click the link in my sig. (Didn't want to bog down the server with too many img codes). It's not quite perfect, there are darker lines from the edge of my spray pattern, and a few minor runs, but overall it turned out better than I thought, and I love the color!
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-Steve Member #895(the member formerly known as BurgundyBeast) 01' MSM Lexus IS300 Last edited by SubaSteevo; 05-30-2005 at 04:58 PM. |
#30
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A very brief how-to...
Needed:
400 grit sandpaper (about 4 sheets) 1 gal Primer* Primer activator* 1 gal Base* Base activator* 1 gal Clear* Clear activator* Two spray guns (atleast one HVLP gravity fed) Air compressor (atleast 2hp, atleast 10 gallon) Respirator Masking film 2 rolls masking tape Contractor paper *get all the same brand to insure compatibility 1. Buy paint, to insure compatibility get the same brand primer/base/clear. 2. Wetsand the entire car with the 400grit sand paper. 3. (optional) Sand any dings with 80grit, then fill with bondo and resand with 400. 4. Use the contractor paper to cover the floor. 5. Mask anything you don't want painted. Take off anything that would be difficult to mask (I chose to remove the front bumper cover, the side mirrors, and all the lights). The best way I found to mask was to outline the area with masking tape, then tape the film on top with a secon piece of tape. 6. Spray primer. Primer is mixed 4:1 with activator. 1st coat should be on the light side, then 2 more medium-heavy coats. Allow ~10 mins between coats. At this point I noticed the primer was not sticking in some areas. I sanded it down again and resprayed wherever there was a problem. (optional) Let dry fully and resand with 400grit. 7. Base coat. Base is mixed 4:1 with activator. 1st coat should be light. I was afraid it was going to look like crap, because after the first coat it was hideous. 2nd and 3rd coats should be medium. Allow ~15 mins between coats. I got a couple of major runs due to moving the gun to slow. I had to let these dry, then sand smooth before repainting. Even though it felt smooth, it wasn't and you can see the runs slightly on the finished car. 8. Clear coat. Clear is mixed 3:1 with activator/reducer. I did one really light coat, then a medium coat, then two medium-heavy coats. Allow ~15 mins between coats. 9. Let dry for 2+ hours, then remove masking. Instead of pulling up at the tape, pull it backwards over itself. I found this makes it harder to pull up paint along with the tape. 10. Reassemble 11. (Optional) Let paint sit for atleast 24hrs and wetsand with an ultrafine sandpaper (1000+grit) I haven't done 11 yet. Because I used urethane paint, the paint has kind of a texture to it, I'm hoping wetsanding will make it a little smoother. Overall it wasn't any harder than I thought it'd be, and despite the dark spots, it came out better than I thought it would. However it did take a LOT more time than I thought it would, and I don't plan on ever doing it again If your car NEEDS paint, and you want to get it done decently for as cheap as possible, give it a try. Total cost was about $225 for me. Be prepared to bring it to Maaco if you screw it up bad. I know I'm leaving lots of stuff out, but this is all that came off the top of my head (must be the fumes), so now I'll turn it over to you guys for questions.
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-Steve Member #895(the member formerly known as BurgundyBeast) 01' MSM Lexus IS300 |
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