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#1
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A/C not working, no codes after leak fixed and recharged. What's wrong?
I just got the car back today (replaced compressor and dryer. The shop says that the pressure readings at low and high are about 32 and 165, respectively. I'm assuming that they had to get the A/C to work to get these readings, but I can't get the compressor to come on (I've tried setting the temp at 65, pressing Defrost, etc). I did the A/C diagnostic and the first time it said code 14 (Evaporator Sensor open), but I reset it and tried to get the A/C to work again (which it didn't...figures) and tried the diagnostic a few more times and now the code is 00 (nothing). What could be keeping the A/C from working?
Thanks for any help |
#2
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Re: A/C not working, no codes after leak fixed and recharged. What's wrong?
[QUOTE]Originally posted by gcookaustin
I just got the car back today (replaced compressor and dryer. The shop says that the pressure readings at low and high are about 32 and 165, respectively. I'm assuming that they had to get the A/C to work to get these readings, but I can't get the compressor to come on (I've tried setting the temp at 65, pressing Defrost, etc). I did the A/C diagnostic and the first time it said code 14 (Evaporator Sensor open), but I reset it and tried to get the A/C to work again (which it didn't...figures) and tried the diagnostic a few more times and now the code is 00 (nothing). What could be keeping the A/C from working? Thanks for any help [/QUOT Did they convert it to 134 A or did thet recharge with R 12? They have to jumper the pressure switch to get the comp. to come on. Try to jumper the limit switch and see if it comes on. If it does then it needs more charge.. The readings dont sound right to me.. They sound to low for R 12... What was the ambient temp. when you tried it? I think all it needs is more charge, but until you get the comp going it will not take it.. I will look under my hood and find the limit switch and try to get back to you.. The code 14 is probably the limet switch i am talking about. It is to protect the comp. if it leaks all the charge.. The comp. gets its oil (lube) from the oil in the freon. If it leaks it all then the limit switch disconnects the 12 volts to the comp. It has to have a certon pressure to activate the switch.. Hope this helps... Jim |
#3
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pressure readings are ambient temp dependent. Yours might be OK. They are certainly within the limits for the low & high pressure switch to activate.
When it's on (and set the interior at 65F) is the compressor clutch working? You should be easily able to tell by having someone turn it off/on and watching the front-center of the compressor - it will catch and begin to spin with the pulley if it's working. If that's OK then post back. If it's not then you need to check the fuse and possibly the relay (in box under the hood). It's entirely possible the tech shorted something when he jumped the compressor to charge the system and blew the fuse. |
#4
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They recharged with 24 oz of R-12 (which I supplied). The label by the engine says it takes between 21 and 25 oz of R-12. I have not seen the clutch turning at all since the compressor was replaced. I did check the A/C fuse (which appeared okay), and also I swapped the A/C relay and the headlight relay (same part) and headlights still work but still no A/C. The code 14 is for an "evaporator sensor;" that code has been displayed twice in the diagnostic mode, but not all the time (I've done diagnostic mode a lot today). I'm hoping that that's not the reason, given that it's probably some rare $200 part. I haven't heard much mention of the evaporator sensor being a common troublespot. The rebuilt compressor I bought came with the necessary oil inside of it.
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#5
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I'm not an A/C tech, but my next step would be to use a jumper wire and make sure the compressor clutch will engage and get you cool air. I'm guessing it will; however, you can't leave it like that. If it does work, then I'd check the fuse with an ohmeter just to be sure (or replace it even). Sometimes fuses look OK, but...
I'd probably next get a voltmeter and check the wire from the ECU and make sure it's sending the right signals out. Do you a have a VOM, the pin-out diagram and voltage levels to test? If you have the VOM I can provide the info if you want to test it yourself. |
#6
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I've got one at home, I could probably get to it this week sometime.
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#7
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OK,
the A/C schematics are in Beav's personal locker, the clutch control pin on the ECU should show 0 Volts when the A/C compressor should be spinning, 13-14 Volts when the compressor should be stopped (which could be A/C off or full throttle, etc). Basically, what's happening is that the ECU provides ground to the A/C relay whenever it wants the A/C compressor to kick in. While you've got the VOM out might as well check for voltage at the relay too, etc. all the obvious points in addition to checking the fuse continuity. |
#8
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I took it back to the shop, and they said that the dryer I purchased at AutoZone had a leak (it's got a valve in there) and let out all the freon. This is annoying. I think it's best to sell the good compressor I bought and go without heat for a summer. I appreciate all the help that you all have provided,
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#9
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no air
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#10
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leaks
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#11
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Anyway, before they charged the system they should have pulled a vacuum for a half-hour or more to dry out the system. That should have revealed a leak and they shouldn't have charged it if it couldn't hold the vacuum. Keep in mind I'm not an A/C tech, but I have taken mine apart, replaced compressor & drier under a tech's supervision at the Air Force Base Auto Hobby Shop where I work. This story just doesn't sound right to me. Maybe somebody else can chime in here, but without knowing more, I'd be hesitent to recommend going back there. Just my $0.02. |
#12
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leak
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#13
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I bought some more Freon on eBay, when I get back from Spring Break I'm going to replace the dryer and have the air conditioning refilled. I'll have six cans of this stuff, which at 12-14 oz. each should allow me three attempts at getting this right
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#14
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Should only need one attempt. Find a place that will draw down a vacuum for a half-hour, then test to see if it's holding. If it is you're golden.
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