CE Light Keeps popping on

Okay maybe some one can help shead alittle bit of light on the CE Light for me. (yes Newbie). So I put and after market Cone filter on from JC Sports. Now my CE light keeps comming on and I have lost some power. So I put the stock air box back on yet the light keeps comming on. Every one I have talked to says the Mass Air Flow hardly ever goes out could the be something else going on, due to the after market intake?

[Seraph]

This would be normally considered a tech. question. Oh well. I will toss out the answer.

I did a cut and paste from the new FAQ I am hacking up... Hope this helps


Q: I have a check engine light that blinks when I start up my car. What does that mean?
A: "The U-check is a user oriented mode in which only the MPFI components necessary for start-up and drive are diagnosed. On occurrence of a fault, the warning light (Check Engine Light) is lighted to indicate to the user that the dealer's inspection is necessary. The diagnosis of other parts, which do not give significant adverse effect to start-up and drive, are excluded from this mode in order to avoid unnecessary uneasiness to be taken by the user."

The Check Engine light will flash in pulses: long and short. The long pulses (1.2 seconds in length) indicate units of ten, while the short pulses (0.2 seconds in length) indicates units of one. The flashes are separated by 0.3 seconds. So, two long flashes and two short flashes would indicate a trouble code of 22. If there is only one problem, the same code will flash continuously, separated by 1.8 seconds. If there are more than one, the codes will flash in succession, separated by 1.8 seconds. In other words, long-long-short-short (1.8 sec) long-long-short-short . . . shows code 22 is the only problem. If the light flashes long-long-short-short (1.8 sec) long-short-short . . . then continues this pattern, then there is a code 22 and a code 12 problem.

Here is what the trouble codes mean:

11. Crank angle sensor #1 -- No signal from crank angle sensor #1for more than three seconds after start switch is ON.
12. Starter Switch – Abnormal signal from ignition switch.
13. Cam Angle Sensor – No signal from cam sensor, but signal from crank angle sensor number one.
14. 14 - 19 indicate an inoperative fuel injector. 14 indicates injector one is inoperative, 15 is injector two, 16 is injector three . . . and so forth.
21. Water temperature sensor – abnormal signal from water temp sensor.
22. Knock sensor 1 (RH) – Abnormal voltage from knock sensor monitor circuit.
23. Air flow sensor – Abnormal voltage from air flow sensor.
24. By-pass air control solenoid valve – by pass air control solenoid valve inoperative (Abnormal signal in monitor circuit).
28. Knock sensor 2 (LH) – Abnormal voltage from knock sensor monitor circuit.
29. Crank angle sensor #2 – No signal from crank angle sensor #2, but two signals from crank angle sensor #1.
31. Throttle sensor – Abnormal voltage from throttle sensor.
32. O2 sensor #1 (RH) – O2 sensor inoperative.
33. Vehicle Speed Sensor #2 – No signal from vehicle speed sensor #2.
34. EGR Solenoid Valve – EGR solenoid valve inoperative.
35. Purge control solenoid valve – Purge control solenoid valve inoperative.
37. O2 Sensor #2 (LH) – O2 sensor 2 is inoperative.
38. Engine Torque Control – Wiring harness between ECU and TCU is in short circuit.
41. A/F Learning Control – Faulty learning control function.
45. Atmosphere Pressure Sensor – Faulty atmospheric pressure sensor inside ECU.
51. Neutral Switch – Abnormal signal from inhibitor switch.
52. Parking Switch – Abnormal signal from parking switch.
55. EGR gas temperature sensor (CAL.) – Abnormal signal from EGR gas temp sensor.
56. EGR system (CAL.) – EGR valve stuck open/closed, EGR hose disconnected or exhaust pressure control valve damaged.

Thanks,

I will check that out as soon as ig get out to the car. once again thanks.

[Seraph]

No prob. If you have any questions, we are here to help each other. And if you have answers, just jump in and pop them out.
Everything is appreciated here. Knowledge is golden

Lwin

Okay tried to do the code thing only could not get the CE light to flash like your post said. Is there a special trick to it I have over looked.

yes there is a special trick. You have to plug in the wire to the diagnostic box! Down by the driver's left foot there is a removable side panel including carpet. Just pull it out. It will reveal some wires. Two black wires will be dangling there, possibly with black electrical tape covering the ends. Plug one into the black diagnostic box also there- in the second spot from the left on top. Let me describe this location better. On this diagnostic box, which is only one inch by one inch, face it so that there are 4 spaces on the top row and 4 spaces on the bottom row looking at you. The top row should have an indentation in the middle- separating two spaces on the left and two on the right.

Plug one of the wires into the top row, second space from the left while the ignition is off. Then turn the ignition on, engine off. Read the code, as you are in read memory mode.