Any ideas?

[stevek]

Hi everyone,
Perhaps I'm posting in the wrong place but I need some advice. My SVX keeps cutting out intermittently. Sometimes as it cuts it may chime in again if I pump the throttle rapidly but if it stops altogether it will restart immediately after switching off the ignition. It doesn't misfire and from the feel of the problem it seems like an ignition cut. I have tried to read the fault code but am getting regular flashes so no fault code present. I have cleaned the MAF element and blown out the TPS to no effect. The odd time, usually after a throttle pumping recovery the 'power' light flashes. Whether it's at all related I don't know but the problem seems to disappear after I have charged the battery - car has no charging issues but as I don't drive it everyday periodically I have put a 1 amp charge through it for around 12 hrs as a precaution. It has a Laserline alarm fitted which appears to work as it should but could it be a thought?

Any pointers would be much appreciated as I just quit smoking after 35 years so patience is in short supply and I noticed a big axe in the garage.....

[stevek]

Hi everyone,
Panic over - I tried the self diagnostic again today which revealed number 23 which I believe is the airflow meter. Wonder why they are known as MAF's rather than AFM's but I digress.
All the best.

[svxistentialist]

Hi Steve

I've just seen your post and I was about to suggest the MAF. I had this problem on my Purple car. It would cut out sometimes as I came to a halt at junctions.

Make sure you use a standard air element in the filter box. Don't use those things that require oil on them. The oil contaminates the element of the MAF. Sometimes cleaning the MAF works OK, sometimes no it doesn't. If you have not already seen it in the How-To section above, you may want to try re-soldering the connections inside the MAF. These can get loose through age, vibration and heat. When that happens you can suffer intermittent bad running problems. Check out the PDF:

MAF re-solder instructions

Let us know how you get on with it.

Joe

[stevek]

Hi Joe,

Thanks for the advice. I have just re-soldered the terminals. I have never held that blowlamp so steady, and it was nearly full of paraffin too. I did spill a little Bakers fluid onto the circuit board but it will soon dry off. I am hoping to try it out later when the No Nails has set.
















Only joking by the way....

[svxistentialist]

We're all jokers round here Steve. Welcome to the club!

There is a good chance that could fix your problem. If it does not you will probably be looking for a second hand MAF/AFM. They're expensive buggers.

Joe

[stevek]

Hi Joe,

You know, without this site and it's contributors I don't think I could run an SVX. You were spot on Joe - the MAF was at fault. I was surprised though because there were no obvious signs/breaks inside, even after I removed the brass shield. I didn't have the ba**s to try resoldering the circuit board terminals as well so it was lucky they turned out to be fine. Apart from the fantastic lack of cutting out the car seems generally more responsive too.
If anyone needs any motorcycle tech advice I'll be pleased to reciprocate! I'm not claiming to be the oracle on the subject but I have been in the trade nearly 40 years.
All the best,
Steve

[svxistentialist]

Steve,

I'm delighted we managed to sort out your problem, it's great to get to the bottom of these annoying things.

I reckon I'll have to award myself an Sti badge. Nobody else round here seems to think I'm worth one!

Hey if you check my Plum Dangerous link in my sig you will see I'm a Blackbird rider. I reckon I'll be taking up that offer on technical help. I'm about to replace all the seals on my linked brakes. I've been suffering from brakes dragging for about a year, and I want to put the problem to bed.



[There are a fair few bikers owning SVXes. John [blueji] has a nice Aprilia Futura. ]

[stevek]

Hi Joe,
I have no idea what an STi award is but please help yourself to one on me. Regarding your brakes 9/10 times its caused by an alloy oxidation build up behind the outer dust seal. We use a length of welding rod, put a chisel point on it then bend it 90 degrees making a scraper. Most folk use a slim screwdriver which can't reach the corner nearest you. Clean the piston using radial strokes of the least abrasive thing you need - if you need more than scotchbrite you need a new piston. reassemble with brake fluid as a lube. Calipers seem to clean up fine in hot fairy liquid water but commercial pressures nowadays lead to brake cleaner use instead. If the wife is out your dishwasher works fine. I like to give the last visible part of the piston a squirt of GT85 which leaves a PTFE residue and doesn't attack the rubber. It smells great too so I often put a dab behind the ear before I go out on a Friday night. Obviously apply copaslip sparingly to the pads on reassembly. If you have a sliding pillar type caliper most assume the slider needs greasing - perhaps it does but usually its that old oxidation problem behind the rubber sleeve causing the stiffness. Regular fluid changing helps the master cylinders most - its so easy, just mop up the reservoir contents with kitchen roll first then fill with new fluid and bleed away. DOT 4 is fine and has a higher boiling point than most DOT 5 silicone fluids. Plus as they dont mix you really need to strip the system to change over. When you have resealed the calipers they can be a nightmare to purge. We use a vacuum bleeder - not dear anymore and you will become very popular locally. Final tip - cleanliness is next to godliness when putting brakes together and dont forget to clean, dress if necessary and lube the heel on your front brake lever - you would be surprised how much more feel you get for 10 pence (sorry 10 cents).
Finally, rumour has it that your Honda system is so relatively complex because Moto Guzzi patented their left front disc/rear disc linking and so they had to go for plan b. Your system works better when turning/braking on a gravel car park though!
If you are still awake all the best,
Steve

[mikecg]

Originally Posted by stevek

Wonder why they are known as MAF's rather than AFM's but I digress.
All the best.

MAF stands for Mass Air Flow.

[blueji]

Originally Posted by svxistentialist

Steve,

I'm delighted we managed to sort out your problem, it's great to get to the bottom of these annoying things.

I reckon I'll have to award myself an Sti badge. Nobody else round here seems to think I'm worth one!

Hey if you check my Plum Dangerous link in my sig you will see I'm a Blackbird rider. I reckon I'll be taking up that offer on technical help. I'm about to replace all the seals on my linked brakes. I've been suffering from brakes dragging for about a year, and I want to put the problem to bed.



[There are a fair few bikers owning SVXes. John [blueji] has a nice Aprilia Futura. ]

Now come on Joe, stop been modest, you know how much your knowledge is relied on!.....or are you just Mr Vain

With regards the brake problem on the Honda.... swap it for a Pasta burner, that'll sort it out

ps, nice to see a bit more activity on the site again!

John

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by blueji

Now come on Joe, stop been modest, you know how much your knowledge is relied on!.....or are you just Mr Vain

With regards the brake problem on the Honda.... swap it for a Pasta burner, that'll sort it out

ps, nice to see a bit more activity on the site again!

John

Hey John

Good to hear from you.

There's no point to my being modest, I'm just so good, you know how it is.

Swap it for a Pasta burner? Shouldn't that be wiring burner, or ecu burner?

[blueji]

Ok ok, oh masterful one......suppose I wouldn't have the best looking SVX in the UK without you!

As most of the electrics on the Fut are French......I think we will leave it there.....touché as they say

John

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by stevek

Hi Joe,
I have no idea what an STi award is but please help yourself to one on me. Regarding your brakes 9/10 times its caused by an alloy oxidation build up behind the outer dust seal. We use a length of welding rod, put a chisel point on it then bend it 90 degrees making a scraper. Most folk use a slim screwdriver which can't reach the corner nearest you. Clean the piston using radial strokes of the least abrasive thing you need - if you need more than scotchbrite you need a new piston. reassemble with brake fluid as a lube. Calipers seem to clean up fine in hot fairy liquid water but commercial pressures nowadays lead to brake cleaner use instead. If the wife is out your dishwasher works fine. I like to give the last visible part of the piston a squirt of GT85 which leaves a PTFE residue and doesn't attack the rubber. It smells great too so I often put a dab behind the ear before I go out on a Friday night. Obviously apply copaslip sparingly to the pads on reassembly. If you have a sliding pillar type caliper most assume the slider needs greasing - perhaps it does but usually its that old oxidation problem behind the rubber sleeve causing the stiffness. Regular fluid changing helps the master cylinders most - its so easy, just mop up the reservoir contents with kitchen roll first then fill with new fluid and bleed away. DOT 4 is fine and has a higher boiling point than most DOT 5 silicone fluids. Plus as they dont mix you really need to strip the system to change over. When you have resealed the calipers they can be a nightmare to purge. We use a vacuum bleeder - not dear anymore and you will become very popular locally. Final tip - cleanliness is next to godliness when putting brakes together and dont forget to clean, dress if necessary and lube the heel on your front brake lever - you would be surprised how much more feel you get for 10 pence (sorry 10 cents).
Finally, rumour has it that your Honda system is so relatively complex because Moto Guzzi patented their left front disc/rear disc linking and so they had to go for plan b. Your system works better when turning/braking on a gravel car park though!
If you are still awake all the best,
Steve

That's great Steve, thanks for the tips.

I'll follow your instructions carefully. I'm going to do the job next week. I bought a full set from David Silver for all three calipers, dust seals and all.

You are correct, they do use the sliding pillar, and it gets gunged up and stiff too. That's why I got the dust seals. I've also bought the sliding bars new for the backs of the calipers, I'm taking no chances.

I still use the front 90% of the time like on the old system. I have used the rear in emergency braking and it works a treat. Surprising the pressure you can put on it and it does not lock.

Against that I don't like how it feels in town slowing up to a halt, it needs too much pressure. Maybe that will change after I do the overhaul.

Cheers man

Joe

[svxistentialist]

Originally Posted by blueji

Ok ok, oh masterful one......suppose I wouldn't have the best looking SVX in the UK without you!

As most of the electrics on the Fut are French......I think we will leave it there.....touché as they say

John

French electrics eh? There was a time when French electrics were second only in derision to Italian electrics. Bad earths all over the place. I hope it doesn't
Ping!Ping! Touché Away! on you, Monsieur Turtle.

[stevek]

Hi Joe,
I just read another recent post of yours on brakes - please accept my apologies for trying to 'teach grandma how to suck eggs'.
All the best,
Steve