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  #1  
Old 03-02-2004, 02:45 PM
gcookaustin
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A/C not working, no codes after leak fixed and recharged. What's wrong?

I just got the car back today (replaced compressor and dryer. The shop says that the pressure readings at low and high are about 32 and 165, respectively. I'm assuming that they had to get the A/C to work to get these readings, but I can't get the compressor to come on (I've tried setting the temp at 65, pressing Defrost, etc). I did the A/C diagnostic and the first time it said code 14 (Evaporator Sensor open), but I reset it and tried to get the A/C to work again (which it didn't...figures) and tried the diagnostic a few more times and now the code is 00 (nothing). What could be keeping the A/C from working?

Thanks for any help
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  #2  
Old 03-02-2004, 04:49 PM
gamblergw
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Re: A/C not working, no codes after leak fixed and recharged. What's wrong?

[QUOTE]Originally posted by gcookaustin
I just got the car back today (replaced compressor and dryer. The shop says that the pressure readings at low and high are about 32 and 165, respectively. I'm assuming that they had to get the A/C to work to get these readings, but I can't get the compressor to come on (I've tried setting the temp at 65, pressing Defrost, etc). I did the A/C diagnostic and the first time it said code 14 (Evaporator Sensor open), but I reset it and tried to get the A/C to work again (which it didn't...figures) and tried the diagnostic a few more times and now the code is 00 (nothing). What could be keeping the A/C from working?

Thanks for any help
[/QUOT Did they convert it to 134 A or did thet recharge with R 12? They have to jumper the pressure switch to get the comp. to come on. Try to jumper the limit switch and see if it comes on. If it does then it needs more charge.. The readings dont sound right to me.. They sound to low for R 12... What was the ambient temp. when you tried it? I think all it needs is more charge, but until you get the comp going it will not take it.. I will look under my hood and find the limit switch and try to get back to you.. The code 14 is probably the limet switch i am talking about. It is to protect the comp. if it leaks all the charge.. The comp. gets its oil (lube) from the oil in the freon. If it leaks it all then the limit switch disconnects the 12 volts to the comp. It has to have a certon pressure to activate the switch.. Hope this helps... Jim
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2004, 05:13 PM
lee lee is offline
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Location: Indialantic, Florida
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pressure readings are ambient temp dependent. Yours might be OK. They are certainly within the limits for the low & high pressure switch to activate.

When it's on (and set the interior at 65F) is the compressor clutch working? You should be easily able to tell by having someone turn it off/on and watching the front-center of the compressor - it will catch and begin to spin with the pulley if it's working.

If that's OK then post back. If it's not then you need to check the fuse and possibly the relay (in box under the hood). It's entirely possible the tech shorted something when he jumped the compressor to charge the system and blew the fuse.
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  #4  
Old 03-02-2004, 07:17 PM
gcookaustin
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They recharged with 24 oz of R-12 (which I supplied). The label by the engine says it takes between 21 and 25 oz of R-12. I have not seen the clutch turning at all since the compressor was replaced. I did check the A/C fuse (which appeared okay), and also I swapped the A/C relay and the headlight relay (same part) and headlights still work but still no A/C. The code 14 is for an "evaporator sensor;" that code has been displayed twice in the diagnostic mode, but not all the time (I've done diagnostic mode a lot today). I'm hoping that that's not the reason, given that it's probably some rare $200 part. I haven't heard much mention of the evaporator sensor being a common troublespot. The rebuilt compressor I bought came with the necessary oil inside of it.
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  #5  
Old 03-02-2004, 07:34 PM
lee lee is offline
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I'm not an A/C tech, but my next step would be to use a jumper wire and make sure the compressor clutch will engage and get you cool air. I'm guessing it will; however, you can't leave it like that. If it does work, then I'd check the fuse with an ohmeter just to be sure (or replace it even). Sometimes fuses look OK, but...

I'd probably next get a voltmeter and check the wire from the ECU and make sure it's sending the right signals out. Do you a have a VOM, the pin-out diagram and voltage levels to test? If you have the VOM I can provide the info if you want to test it yourself.
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  #6  
Old 03-02-2004, 09:20 PM
gcookaustin
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I've got one at home, I could probably get to it this week sometime.
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  #7  
Old 03-03-2004, 01:44 PM
lee lee is offline
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OK,

the A/C schematics are in Beav's personal locker, the clutch control pin on the ECU should show 0 Volts when the A/C compressor should be spinning, 13-14 Volts when the compressor should be stopped (which could be A/C off or full throttle, etc).

Basically, what's happening is that the ECU provides ground to the A/C relay whenever it wants the A/C compressor to kick in.

While you've got the VOM out might as well check for voltage at the relay too, etc. all the obvious points in addition to checking the fuse continuity.
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  #8  
Old 03-03-2004, 02:44 PM
gcookaustin
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I took it back to the shop, and they said that the dryer I purchased at AutoZone had a leak (it's got a valve in there) and let out all the freon. This is annoying. I think it's best to sell the good compressor I bought and go without heat for a summer. I appreciate all the help that you all have provided,
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  #9  
Old 03-03-2004, 02:57 PM
gamblergw
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no air

Quote:
Originally posted by gcookaustin
I've got one at home, I could probably get to it this week sometime.
On top of the comp. there are 2 connectors.. One two wire connector and one one wire connector. The one wire connector (The front one) should have 12 plus volts going to it when air is on.. Disconnect it and check with VOM and see if you have juice there. If not , what i would do is jumper a wire from battery plus side to the wire going to the clutch, If your comp. starts then, I would bet you are low on freon. If you deside to add it, keep the jumper in place and run the engine up a little.. after connecting the freon hose to the low side of the system.. The high pressure swicth turns ON at from 196 + or - 27 PSI. It turns off at 384 + or -28 PSI.. This tells me even if you have 165 PSI on the high side it still may not be high unough to turn on the switch.. add a litle R 12 and i think you will solve your problem. Hope this helps. Jim
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  #10  
Old 03-03-2004, 03:36 PM
gamblergw
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leaks

Quote:
Originally posted by gcookaustin
I took it back to the shop, and they said that the dryer I purchased at AutoZone had a leak (it's got a valve in there) and let out all the freon. This is annoying. I think it's best to sell the good compressor I bought and go without heat for a summer. I appreciate all the help that you all have provided,
If they had done there job, they would have detecked the leaks before you picked up the car.. The last thing they should have done is check for leaks.. I have a problem with your mech.. It states in the manual that 165 PSI may not be high enough to turn the comp on.... Jist my 2 cents worth,... PS if in fact the dryer was bad, autozone will replace it.. It is not a hard job to install it.. ....Jim
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  #11  
Old 03-03-2004, 03:37 PM
lee lee is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by gcookaustin
I took it back to the shop, and they said that the dryer I purchased at AutoZone had a leak (it's got a valve in there) and let out all the freon. This is annoying. I think it's best to sell the good compressor I bought and go without heat for a summer. I appreciate all the help that you all have provided,
Unless you have a lot of faith in this shop, I think they may be telling you a story. The drier is a single housing out of something like spun aluminum. On top are two fittings for in/out. Each of these fittings has a nylon (or some such plastic) gasket. I suspect it is the gasket that leaked out (of course maybe autozone is selling some strange stuff - without seeing it...).

Anyway, before they charged the system they should have pulled a vacuum for a half-hour or more to dry out the system. That should have revealed a leak and they shouldn't have charged it if it couldn't hold the vacuum.

Keep in mind I'm not an A/C tech, but I have taken mine apart, replaced compressor & drier under a tech's supervision at the Air Force Base Auto Hobby Shop where I work. This story just doesn't sound right to me.

Maybe somebody else can chime in here, but without knowing more, I'd be hesitent to recommend going back there. Just my $0.02.
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  #12  
Old 03-03-2004, 03:48 PM
gamblergw
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leak

Quote:
Originally posted by lee


Unless you have a lot of faith in this shop, I think they may be telling you a story. The drier is a single housing out of something like spun aluminum. On top are two fittings for in/out. Each of these fittings has a nylon (or some such plastic) gasket. I suspect it is the gasket that leaked out (of course maybe autozone is selling some strange stuff - without seeing it...).

Anyway, before they charged the system they should have pulled a vacuum for a half-hour or more to dry out the system. That should have revealed a leak and they shouldn't have charged it if it couldn't hold the vacuum.

Keep in mind I'm not an A/C tech, but I have taken mine apart, replaced compressor & drier under a tech's supervision at the Air Force Base Auto Hobby Shop where I work. This story just doesn't sound right to me.

Maybe somebody else can chime in here, but without knowing more, I'd be hesitent to recommend going back there. Just my $0.02.
I agree with lee, I think the shop is a place i would not take my car to.. I to have replaced about every part of air condition parts.. I still think it is low on freon.. Remove the cap on the low side and push in the little valve (looks like a tire valve) just for a split secont.. If it sounds like air comming out of a tire, then it has freon. The shop should repair the leak for no charge (No pun) I still think it is low on freon.. It is right on the verge of the limit of being to low PSI by there own admitance... Jim
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  #13  
Old 03-05-2004, 12:03 AM
gcookaustin
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I bought some more Freon on eBay, when I get back from Spring Break I'm going to replace the dryer and have the air conditioning refilled. I'll have six cans of this stuff, which at 12-14 oz. each should allow me three attempts at getting this right
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2004, 02:53 PM
lee lee is offline
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Should only need one attempt. Find a place that will draw down a vacuum for a half-hour, then test to see if it's holding. If it is you're golden.
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