New Shift Kit Developed

[SVXRide]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Deciphering Dyno charts for some is like me, looking at Phil’s source code. It looks very good, but tells me nothing. To Phil it has a whole lot of clues in plain sight.
Reading a torque chart tells me every thing about the performance of the engine and transmission. Everybody looks at the Numbers, how much power does it make?
I look at the shape of the curve, is it flat or peaky, are there any dips or peaks. What happened in the breathing to cause that dip or was it the exhaust?

The charts that Tina posted, shows the torque delivered to the wheels through the 1st-2nd gear change that we can read, to see the effects of the change on wheel power. To understand this we have to know that the ratio change does to the flow. When we do the ratio change from first gears ratio of 2.785:1 to second gears 1.515:1 we will be changing the speed of the engine by 2800 rpm. At full throttle the auto box will change at 6500 rpm, so the engine speed has to slow to 3700 rpm.

In the before chart we see the torque line rising fast at the start and slowly decrease as the speed rises. At about 34.5 MPH/6500RPM the fuel injection pulse to every second injector is turned off. At the first green line the band is applied and the box is in second gear. The rise in the torque line between the two green lines is the Torque converter slowing the engine down the necessary 2800 rpms. This is helped by the 50% torque cut that is on, but the torque still increases as the 2800 rpm difference brings the converters torque multiplication factor up to 1.9 times. As the engine slows and the speed difference reduces so does the torque factor. The peak of this is reached at about 36 MPH and the engine has come down to speed at about 37 MPH, the injection is brought back on gradually to conform to the “no change felt policy”, and the engine is restored to full power at about 38 MPH. All the time between the two red lines is the lag that we feel, about 4.5 MPHs worth.

In the after chart a better view shows the three changes into 2,3,4. In this chart we see by the flat Air/Fuel curve that there is no cut made. The change takes place at the first of the green lines at about 33-34 MPH/6500 RPM. When the band is applied and the box is in second gear, the torque converter starts to slow the engine, but because the engine is still at full power the multiplication factor of about 1.9, results in a much higher torque output, peaking on the red line, at about 36 MPH. By about 38-39 MPH the engine has slowed to the new ratio speed of 3700. This is fortunate as this puts us right in the middle of the Inlets Inertia torque curve, where it is putting out 90 odd % of the total torque, this then multiplying by the factor of 1.9 produces an increase torque flow of about 227 ft lbs.

The other things to be noticed is that when the band is applied at the first green line, there is no shock recorded in the torque, as it would have shown up as a sharp increase. over a very short period. The following torque peak is due to the converter multiplying the torque over a longer period that is felt as a surg, and as the hydraulic engagement pressure is increased in this time, the band can easily hold this increase.

Comparing the 3 changes, it can be seen that the amplitude of the torque peaks reduces as the gearing is increased, the 3-4 change has a lower torque peak that the 1-2 change. You should note that Tina’s car is fitted with 4.44:1 diffs so the lower ratio produces torque peaks in her car, that will be higher, and over a shorter period, than a car with the STD 3.45:1 diff ratio.

Harvey.

Harvey,
Thanks for explaining the AFR curve in the "before" plot!
-Bill

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by oab_au

No, what I said is that "the increase in power is due to the Average torque over Time" that the change takes place.

It is in the torque converters conversion, that the torque is increased but the power remains the same. As the torque is increased, the different speed between the two converters elements is increased. As with any mechanical advantage. But what you say in your post is basically right.

Harvey.

"the increase in power is due to the Average torque over Time" is rather a confusing statement. I now realise that probably what is meant is that, the increase in power is due to the increase in what was the previous normal torque, over Time"

Horse power is a measure of work accomplished. Torque is a measure of a static force. Once torque moves something, HP is developed and can be measured. In the situation being discussed, an increase in torque therefore clearly results in an increase in HP.

Therefore the power does not remain the same as you have claimed. However this is a matter of getting ones head around what are rather confusing facts, and does not affect the issue.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by b3lha

Yes. I read that. But it is not a complete explanation. I was hoping that Harvey would provide some further clarification.

How does the QC knows when the change to the torque control and line pressure operation is needed. How does it know when a gear change is taking place, or about to take place? Where is the threshold of throttle position that causes the QC to activate?

What is the relationship between throttle pressure and the duty cycle applied by the QC? Does the QC actually apply an increase the pulse width, or just force the solenoid open with DC?
I am not asking WHAT it does, I am asking HOW it does it.

Sorry Phil, I wanted to get a photo of the circuit board up, to explain its operation, but I am not having a lot of luck.

When I design something I subscribe to the "KISS" principal, so it is pretty simple.
It uses a LM741 Op-Amp configured as a comparator, comparing a regulated set voltage to the Throttle Position Sensors voltage. When the TP voltage reaches 1.8 V the Op-Amp sets to turn on a transistor to operate a DP/DT relay. One half turns the TCUs Torque Control line off the ECU and on to a regulated 4.5V, that it can pull up and down happily. The other side of the relay inserts a resistor in the A solenoids control line to limit its signal to 5%. This action keeps both the ECU/TCU from posting trouble codes.

The Op-Amp has some negative feed back to allow some hysteresis to give a good snap-on, and to prevent a noisy TPS from spurious triggering.

The line pressure is normally controlled by the throttle position, more throttle more line pressure, this is the normal way Autos do it. In our box there is another feed to the A solenoid that is used to reduce the line pressure for a number of reasons, cold oil, starter cranking, gear changing. So it can't be turned off all the time.

The circuit looks like this, the Throttle pressure signal is a 12V duty cycle that is run through the dropping resistor to reduce the signal to a 5V signal to mix with the 5V shift signal. The inclusion of the resistor to allow the two signals to drive the solenoid even though they may be opposite. This happens when the throttle is wide open its duty cycle signal is 5%, when the shift is to operate the shift voltage is increased to about 80% to soften the engagement, if the resistor was not used one line would short out the other line, so it acts as an isolator, or voltage divider.

When the Small Cars Shift Kit is used, the reduced resistance in the Throttle line causes a higher line pressure that would normally be used, but even with this in place, a full throttle change still has the line pressure reduced through the shift line, so it really does nothing but fool the driver into thinking it is producing a solid change.

The other thing that the SCSK can't do, that the Quick Change achieves is that because the Pilot pressure that the A solenoid regulates, is also used to set the pressure behind the shift accumulators, by keeping this pressure from reducing, it reduces any chance of slip due to the longer engagement time, that the softer accumulator gives, so its action is set in line with the throttle pressure as the whole operation is.
The Quick Changes action is progressive to the throttle position, no change at all on a light throttle, progressively getting firmer with the throttle position.

I'll get a photo up eventually.

Harvey.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by b3lha

Yes. I read that. But it is not a complete explanation. I was hoping that Harvey would provide some further clarification.

How does the QC knows when the change to the torque control and line pressure operation is needed. How does it know when a gear change is taking place, or about to take place? Where is the threshold of throttle position that causes the QC to activate?

What is the relationship between throttle pressure and the duty cycle applied by the QC? Does the QC actually apply an increase the pulse width, or just force the solenoid open with DC?
I am not asking WHAT it does, I am asking HOW it does it.

Phil,
Like you I am curious and have the exactly same thoughts as you regarding the method involved. However this stumbles because Harvey has mentioned that the torque control is normally used as a safety measure in reverse gear. Surely this is not done away with.

Importantly Harvey has stated that “The overall Line pressure is still controlled by the Throttle pressure through the dropping resistor circuit that has to be as normal.” This is not correct. The resistor circuit is not involved in the control of solenoid “A”. The increase in line pressure due to disconnecting the circuit is purely circumstantial.

Cheers, Trevor. *<)

[Myxalplyx]

Wannarace,

Thanks for posting up the dyno charts. I have been reading this and staying quiet up to now. I have posted the same information in previous threads that you have. See the dyno chart from my SVX:


In this thread-->http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...Akit%2A&page=2

I have explained that I think the spike in lean air/fuel ratios could probably be eliminated if the shifts were super fast. Here is the thread that this info was posted in --->
Thread: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ht=Hydrosystem

Here's is what I said in this thread:

Originally Posted by Myxalplyx

Who has had the Level 10 PTS Hydrosystem (Or valve body) job performed on their SVX? What is your experience with it? I am interested in knowing since I plan on doing this sooner than later.

I know there are other options but it would be nice to see if someone has taken this route already. I had it done with my Outback Sport and I love it.

This is what I am thinking it will do-->

1) It will shorten the shift time between shifts by allowing the clutch packs to engage quickly rather than slipping to engage. I believe this will eliminate or dramatically shorten the 'power-loss' phenomena that a lot of us have been talking about. I don't think you need to go inside the TCU in order to do this. The only reason why I say this is because my Outback Sport shifted similarly before having the hydrosystem done,

2) It will dramatically shorten or eliminate the lean air/fuel ratio condition between shifts. I believe the TCU is telling the ECU (I am going to shift) and the ECU cuts fuel to the engine. If the TCU says (I am going to.....) then Boom, the transmission is in the next gear, the ECU will have little to no time to cut fuel to the engine.

3) Forgot to add this (Adding on 10/22/07). The hp & torque in between shifts should jump up an additional between 50-70hp & lb-ft of torque. Should feel like someone turned on nitrous in between shifts for a split second. That would be cool! That would be a big difference than losing hp and torque like we currently do.

I am going to apologize to those this may have offended since a lot of work has gone into making firmer shifts from people here. I just wanted to voice my opinion on this even though I have less experience in the ins and outs of our tranny shift behavior.....

Thoughts!?!

I have experienced the same problem that you did with the shifting of the car to 4th gear before I had my valve body modified. If you look at my dyno graph, you'll notice that my car does not shift when yours did after you had your shift kit installed. My power simply kept going then dropped off. It would not shift into 4th gear.

Just wanted to let you know that you are not alone. Also wanted to thank you for confirming what I have been stating all along. That I believe you WILL eliminate the air/fuel ratio spike in between shifts with a shift kit. Trust me, your tranny should like it due to the reduced trans temps. If I had another SVX, this'd be one of the first mods no doubt. Send me a PM if you like to discuss further. You may be in an uphill battle trying to convince some people (No offense) that this is worth doing. I never got back on the dyno to prove what I thought it'd do to the air/fuel ratio. Again thanks!

Also, you have proven what I said about he torque/hp jump in between shifts. See my quote above. THANK YOU!!!! I love it!!!!

Originally Posted by wannarace928

THIS IS THE AFTER DYNO RESULTS!



Video to go with the results:

http://s187.photobucket.com/albums/x...2eddyno004.flv

My car did considerably better on the dyno today. It actually shifted into 3ed this time. The guy that runs the dyno said he definately noticed it shifted a whole lot better.

[Myxalplyx]

Originally Posted by oab_au

In the before chart we see the torque line rising fast at the start and slowly decrease as the speed rises. At about 34.5 MPH/6500RPM the fuel injection pulse to every second injector is turned off. At the first green line the band is applied and the box is in second gear. The rise in the torque line between the two green lines is the Torque converter slowing the engine down the necessary 2800 rpms. This is helped by the 50% torque cut that is on, but the torque still increases as the 2800 rpm difference brings the converters torque multiplication factor up to 1.9 times. As the engine slows and the speed difference reduces so does the torque factor. The peak of this is reached at about 36 MPH and the engine has come down to speed at about 37 MPH, the injection is brought back on gradually to conform to the “no change felt policy”, and the engine is restored to full power at about 38 MPH. All the time between the two red lines is the lag that we feel, about 4.5 MPHs worth.

Harvey, I apologize ahead of time for not purchasing your kit when we talked PM (before I had the Level 10 done). I wasn't sure it was doing what Tina charts suggests. As for the bolded area above, I just wanted to confirm the time you suggested from the time I plotted on my dyno chart from a previous post.

Originally Posted by Myxalplyx

Just bumping this up since crazy ideas keep popping into my head.

I still do not like the lose of fuel between shifts. Harvey stated that the fuel can continue to flow instead of being cut off between shifts. I have already contacted Level 10 and have been considering a valve body (Hydrosystem) job. I told them I would like to have the shifting on the firmer/harder/quicker side. The car feels like it shifts great but I sat down last night to look at a few things.

On the 1st to 2nd gear, the SVX is not making any power for 4.1 seconds on the dyno (29.7 to 33.8 second mark). On the 2nd to 3rd gear shift, it is not making any power for 2.6 seconds (59.5 to 62.1 second mark). That is a total of 6.7 seconds of power loss. I do not have data for the 3rd gear to 4th gear gear change time since I never took it that far on the dyno. Even still, 6.7 seconds of power loss out of a car that has been ran in the low 15 second range seems significant.

Power loss in 1st to 2nd gear has been as low as 84whp and from 2nd to 3rd gear as low as 92.5whp. How significant a drop in the 1/4 mile time can be achieved if you could turn these times of power losses to 100% power gains? In other words, make your shift change from 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd power gain as much as it orginally lost after a valve body job.

Just pointing out the 4mph you were talking about above, is what I noticed as well. That is significant to me.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...Akit%2A&page=2


I am still wondering why the 2nd to 3rd gear shift is not as powerful as 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. Same 'issue' I have. I still do not like my 2nd-3rd gear shift even though it is still good. The 'neck-snapping' shift is not there or as apparent as the other gear shifts.

Harvey, congrats on your work. I want to purchase this kit despite the valve body job I have already. That 1-2 shift is neck snapping. I like a lot and I don't think I quite feel that much torque going through the gears. Good luck and I hope you sell a ton of these. I wish I could apply your kit to my XT6. I'd do it tomorrow.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Myxalplyx

Harvey, I apologize ahead of time for not purchasing your kit when we talked PM (before I had the Level 10 done). I wasn't sure it was doing what Tina charts suggests. As for the bolded area above, I just wanted to confirm the time you suggested from the time I plotted on my dyno chart from a previous post.

Just pointing out the 4mph you were talking about above, is what I noticed as well. That is significant to me.

I am still wondering why the 2nd to 3rd gear shift is not as powerful as 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. Same 'issue' I have. I still do not like my 2nd-3rd gear shift even though it is still good. The 'neck-snapping' shift is not there or as apparent as the other gear shifts.

Giday Kevin, no need to do that mate, you were not the only one to not realise its operation, there were others, it probably did seem a bit too good to be true.

The differences in the 1-2 and 2-3 changes is, when the box is in first the forward clutch is on, to go to second the brake band only has to be applied, the forward clutch is still used. If the band slips a bit or it is late to apply, the box is still in first so you won't notice it, you just get a later change.

The 2-3 change is different. The band has to be released, and the high clutch has to be applied. This takes a bit of timing, both with the valve body and the TCU. If the band is released before the high clutch comes on, it will 'flare', (actually it still has the forward clutch on, so it goes back to first), till the high clutch comes on to go to 3rd. So it doesn't have the snap action of just applying the band, it takes a bit of shuffling to do.
Older 3 speed boxs did this change over using the same applied pressure, releasing the band and applying the high clutch with the same applied pressure. Because our 4 speed uses the band again for 4th, it has a much more involved release/apply system. Hence the reason for the difference in the changes.

The 3-4 change is a bit like the 1-2, as the high clutch is still on and the band is applied to hold the front sun gear. If the band slips in 4th, it just goes back to 3rd. But only having to apply the band, gives the same snappy change as 1-2.

Harvey.

[Trevor]

When I design something I subscribe to the "KISS" principal, so it is pretty simple.
It uses a LM741 Op-Amp configured as a comparator, comparing a regulated set voltage to the Throttle Position Sensors voltage. When the TP voltage reaches 1.8 V the Op-Amp sets to turn on a transistor to operate a DP/DT relay.

Why not a simple transistor driven voltage sensitive DPDT relay? I gather there is a direct connection to the TPS. This means that whenever the throttle position provides 1.8 V. or more, torque reduction can not occur and line pressure runs free, regardless.

One half turns the TCUs Torque Control line off the ECU and on to a regulated 4.5V, that it can pull up and down happily.

This indicates that the torque control signal is applied to the output from a 4.5 volt regulated supply. Phil has advised that the torque control is a binary switch not a voltage. It is either On or Off. Therefore the described arrangement will ask the torque control to short circuit a voltage regulated supply, backed up by 14 volts. Interesting stuff.

The other side of the relay inserts a resistor in the A solenoids control line to limit its signal to 5%. This action keeps both the ECU/TCU from posting trouble codes.

The circuit looks like this, the Throttle pressure signal is a 12V duty cycle that is run through the dropping resistor to reduce the signal to a 5V. signal to mix with the 5V shift signal. It is therefore claimed that the shift signal to the solenoid is at 5v. The inclusion of the resistor to allow the two signals to drive the solenoid even though they may be opposite. Opposite? At negative potential? This happens when the throttle is wide open its duty cycle signal is 5%, when the shift is to operate the shift voltage is increased to about 80% to soften the engagement, if the resistor was not used one line would short out the other line, Why? They are of the same polarity. so it acts as an isolator, or voltage divider. In order to operate as a voltage divider the so called ‘throttle signal’ must be at negative potential.

Everything indicates that the resistor circuit must be at negative potential, which it is not.

When the Small Cars Shift Kit is used, the reduced resistance in the Throttle line causes a higher line pressure that (?than) would normally be used, but even with this in place, a full throttle change still has the line pressure reduced through the shift line, Exactly how? so it really does nothing but fool the driver into thinking it is producing a solid change. (Not according to those who have it. The secondary resistor included in the kit is of high resistance and is included only to prevent a fault signal. The effect equates with fully opening the circuit, which has been found to have a definite effect, confirmed by many who have tried it.)

The "Q C" may work, but not in the way intended or described and only as result of luck.

[Trevor]

At the moment with my brain still loose in my skull, bending down makes things spin, so that I am unable to undertake experimental work myself. I hope that someone will have a crack at the following idea. This does not mean that I entirely agree with the mod. involved, which is carried out entirely at the users choice and risk.


Shift kit, KISS/RS (simple, Rapid Shift)

Requirement.

On a partial opening of the throttle, insert a resistance in the torque control and line pressure signal circuits connected to the TCU, so as to prevent these from operating, while eliminating any abrupt, complete opening of the circuits as well as fault signals. As a result torque control will be eliminated and line pressure increased to controlled pump output pressure.

Features.

Cost effective, simple easily understood system, easily installed by the user at minimal cost i.e. bugger all for those who have a junk box.

Method.

Micro switch operated directly from the throttle spindle.

Components.

Alternative 1. Special bracket & actuator user made, one S.P.D.T. miniature micro switch, one D.P.D.T. 12 volt 10 -15 amp relay, two carbon resistors, insulated hook up wire, connectors, fastenings.

Alternative 2. Special bracket & actuator user made, one D.P.D.T. micro switch, two carbon resistors, insulated hook up wire, connectors, fastenings.

Component Specifications.

(1) Micro Switch with lever actuation, S.P.D.T. Size and switching capacity not important. Maximum over travel, which largely depends on maximum lever length and this can be extended. (The existing lever can easily be lengthened by sweat soldering an extension, and a brass/bronze lever is therefore preferable. Otherwise the extension can be epoxy glued.)

Relay, 12 Volt operating, say 10 - 15 Amp nominal switching capacity. Otherwise users choice of connecting terminals and mounting etc. Give anything you have in the junk box a try.

(2) Micro Switch, D.P.D.T. Maximum switch capacity available within a suitable size. Otherwise as (1) above. An alternative is to mount two switches in tandem. Again check the junk box.

(1&2) Actuator, comprising a light metal strip 75 mm/3” long, 1-12 mm/3/8-1/2” wide.

(1&2) Bracket. Sheet metal right angle bracket, to rigidly mount the micro switch, using the existing two screws at the outside end of the throttle spindle support. To rise upwards and then outwards to support the switch from underneath, so that the lever moves backwards and forwards. Holes drilled accordingly. Innermost switch mounting holes slotted to allow for adjustment.

(1&2) Two carbon film resistors, 180 - 470 ohm, 1 watt, to be each chosen after practical testing

Method Of Operation.

A strip of steel is epoxy glued to the outside of the quadrant operated by the throttle peddle cable, so the it protrudes above the edge in order to strike the lever of a micro switch. The switch is mounted to the outside of the throttle spindle by means of suitable bracket.

The switch lever is aligned close to the outside of the quadrant, clear of the second outer quadrant, so that in the closed throttle position, the switch is activated by the protruding strip at the maximum of available over travel. Therefore the switch lever will be released and the N/C contacts close, after the throttle is past part way opened.

The normally closed contacts are utilised to operate a relay (1) or directly close the circuitry (2). As a result resistors connected across the two circuits, which have been intentionally broken, are brought into play.

It will be seen that the switch position can be adjusted to set the point of throttle opening, where the circuit will become activated.

If a relay is used and a S.P.D.T micro switch as in (1), the normally open relay contacts are connected across the resistors. An ignition switch controlled auxiliary supply is connected to the relay and the other side grounded via a lead to the micro switch N.C. contacts.

Exact details can be discussed with anyone wishing to install the system. Suitable micro switches are manufactured by Cherry Corp. as well many others. Relays are a dime a dozen and many could have one or both items in their junk box.

P.S. If any member wishes to test and finalise this project, make brackets and source components so at to offer a kit, go for it, you will have my assistance. I have no financial reward in mind and all is for free. Those who have thoughts about me stealing ideas, should refer to post #57.

[Myxalplyx]

When you guys start talking like this, the conversation goes to another level. Interesting stuff regardless. I will catch up with understanding by 2020.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Trevor

When I design something I subscribe to the "KISS" principal, so it is pretty simple.
It uses a LM741 Op-Amp configured as a comparator, comparing a regulated set voltage to the Throttle Position Sensors voltage. When the TP voltage reaches 1.8 V the Op-Amp sets to turn on a transistor to operate a DP/DT relay.

Why not a simple transistor driven voltage sensitive DPDT relay? I gather there is a direct connection to the TPS. This means that whenever the throttle position provides 1.8 V. or more, torque reduction can not occur and line pressure runs free, regardless.

One half turns the TCUs Torque Control line off the ECU and on to a regulated 4.5V, that it can pull up and down happily.

This indicates that the torque control signal is applied to the output from a 4.5 volt regulated supply. Phil has advised that the torque control is a binary switch not a voltage. It is either On or Off. Therefore the described arrangement will ask the torque control to short circuit a voltage regulated supply, backed up by 14 volts. Interesting stuff.

The other side of the relay inserts a resistor in the A solenoids control line to limit its signal to 5%. This action keeps both the ECU/TCU from posting trouble codes.

The circuit looks like this, the Throttle pressure signal is a 12V duty cycle that is run through the dropping resistor to reduce the signal to a 5V. signal to mix with the 5V shift signal. It is therefore claimed that the shift signal to the solenoid is at 5v. The inclusion of the resistor to allow the two signals to drive the solenoid even though they may be opposite. Opposite? At negative potential? This happens when the throttle is wide open its duty cycle signal is 5%, when the shift is to operate the shift voltage is increased to about 80% to soften the engagement, if the resistor was not used one line would short out the other line, Why? They are of the same polarity. so it acts as an isolator, or voltage divider. In order to operate as a voltage divider the so called ‘throttle signal’ must be at negative potential.

Everything indicates that the resistor circuit must be at negative potential, which it is not.

When the Small Cars Shift Kit is used, the reduced resistance in the Throttle line causes a higher line pressure that (?than) would normally be used, but even with this in place, a full throttle change still has the line pressure reduced through the shift line, Exactly how? so it really does nothing but fool the driver into thinking it is producing a solid change. (Not according to those who have it. The secondary resistor included in the kit is of high resistance and is included only to prevent a fault signal. The effect equates with fully opening the circuit, which has been found to have a definite effect, confirmed by many who have tried it.)

The "Q C" may work, but not in the way intended or described and only as result of luck.

On dear, what can I say.

You have either not understood, or have not comprehended, any of the explanation that I have written, and I have neither the time, nor the inclination to explain it to you again.

Harvey.

[oab_au]

[QUOTE=Trevor;550856]At the moment with my brain still loose in my skull, bending down makes things spin, so that I am unable to undertake experimental work myself. I hope that someone will have a crack at the following idea. This does not mean that I entirely agree with the mod. involved, which is carried out entirely at the users choice and risk.
(1&2) Bracket. Sheet metal right angle bracket, to rigidly mount the micro switch, using the existing two screws at the outside end of the throttle spindle support. To rise upwards and then outwards to support the switch from underneath, so that the lever moves backwards and forwards. Holes drilled accordingly. Innermost switch mounting holes slotted to allow for adjustment.

A strip of steel is epoxy glued to the outside of the quadrant operated by the throttle peddle cable, so the it protrudes above the edge in order to strike the lever of a micro switch. The switch is mounted to the outside of the throttle spindle by means of suitable bracket.

The switch lever is aligned close to the outside of the quadrant, clear of the second outer quadrant, so that in the closed throttle position, the switch is activated by the protruding strip at the maximum of available over travel. Therefore the switch lever will be released and the N/C contacts close, after the throttle is past part way opened.


This would be funny, if it wasn't so stupidly serious.
Here you cobble up a thought, that you will not be testing, and you ask somebody else to try it at their own risk.You can't be fuggan serious.

You are telling this lucky sucker to glue some bits to the throttle quadrant on the throttle shaft, and go out and try killing themselves, or somebody else.

I am absolutely astounded that you would be so irresponsible as to suggest such a dangeriously modification.

Harvey.

[oab_au]

The first delivery of "Quick Change" has arrived in Ohio.
Only took 14 days to get there.

Harvey.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by oab_au

On dear, what can I say.

You have either not understood, or have not comprehended, any of the explanation that I have written, and I have neither the time, nor the inclination to explain it to you again.

Harvey.

Anyone who has technical ability will be able to understand and comprehend exactly what I have said, however it is clear that you do not have this ability. Cobbling together circuits from hobby magazines without proper understanding, results in the sort of imperfect design you have produced. Putting a price on such an amateur effort is not on.

[RSVX]

Originally Posted by oab_au

On dear, what can I say.

You have either not understood, or have not comprehended, any of the explanation that I have written, and I have neither the time, nor the inclination to explain it to you again.

Harvey.

Originally Posted by Trevor

Anyone who has technical ability will be able to understand and comprehend exactly what I have said, however it is clear that you do not have this ability. Cobbling together circuits from hobby magazines without proper understanding, results in the sort of imperfect design you have produced. Putting a price on such an amateur effort is not on.

OK, so you agree to disagree... GREAT!

Let's leave it at that.