Race engine for my race svx.

[longassname]

I finished the crank work a while ago but don't think I posted pictures. Here's a picture of the ECUtune bearings just because they are so awesome.



I got the heads and valves back from being coated and dropped them off for the valve job. I'll machine the step deck onto the block later today while I have the machining center going then clean up the shop to begin assembly.

[svxash]

What kind of performance gains do you expect with the finished engine?

[Hocrest]

Originally Posted by longassname

...In the SVX's case, however, it looks more likely to that the cooling system simply can't keep up with the demand of extended high rpm operation with only one fan running and, or the fan kicking in only after the coolant is already very hot. I believe that with both fans running the oe cooling system will perform well in extended high rpm operation...

Are you serious about this statement??
First of all, the fans are wired to come on together. There are 3 speeds dependent on inputs from the ECU, speed sensors, AC and others (don't have the FSM's to look back at) but they are designed to always be on together. If they aren't then you probably have a bad relay.

Secondly, the fans are completely ineffective at high speeds. The fan controller actually cuts power to the fans at a certain speed. Off the top of my head I'm gonna say 35 mph, but like I already mentioned I don't have the FSM's here. At the vehicle speeds requiring extended high RPM's there is more air flow across the radiator from vehicle movement than the fans could ever manage.

[longassname]

I would appreciate it if you could be more courteous and respectful. I am editing my reply now to have my own tone rather than reflect back what I read.

You are correct that both fans come on together but the information I have indicates that the fans draw far more air through the radiator than driving does and that turning both fans on high at a lower temp like 176 or 180 will likely provide all the cooling Tony needs.

Tony has a multitude of coolant temp sensors and wiring to turn his fans on/off manually installed in one of his cars and has monitored the coolant temp before and after the radiator and a couple other places I don't remember. I believe a correct summary of what he found was that the cooling system doesn't cool much when the fans aren't running but when the fans are on high it can really strip away a lot of heat. If my synopsis of his findings isn't quite right I'm sure Tony will politely correct me. He may even be willing to share his information with you if you are courteous.

Originally Posted by Hocrest

Are you serious about this statement??
First of all, the fans are wired to come on together. There are 3 speeds dependent on inputs from the ECU, speed sensors, AC and others (don't have the FSM's to look back at) but they are designed to always be on together. If they aren't then you probably have a bad relay.

Secondly, the fans are completely ineffective at high speeds. The fan controller actually cuts power to the fans at a certain speed. Off the top of my head I'm gonna say 35 mph, but like I already mentioned I don't have the FSM's here. At the vehicle speeds requiring extended high RPM's there is more air flow across the radiator from vehicle movement than the fans could ever manage.

[shotgunslade]

If you have good results overcoming the overheating problem after extended periods of high output operation. I would appreciate some advice. Would like to take my SVX back to the track without spewing coolant all over the engine compartment.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by longassname

I would appreciate it if you could be more courteous and respectful. .

Oh yes sir.

Harvey.

[XT6Wagon]

Depending on how serious you are you can do something as simple as steal the IC waterspray system from a 04-07 STi and mount it so it sprays the Radiator. This is what the Mitsu EVO did for years with its "IC" waterspray... prevent overheating at high output since the radiator wasn't getting enough cool air to keep tempatures stable at sustained high output.

Also it looks like you might not have your front undertray on, those help cooling by making more of a pressure drop across the radiator.

Last, how about a front splitter, more downforce AND more cooling.

Oh and Believe LAN, more fans = more cooling at anyspeed as turning them off decreases the flow through them even if you are going 155. Its all about the pressures before and after the radiator how much airflow you will get across it.

[longassname]

It's assembly time. I machined the step deck in Tony's block today. If you look very closely at the last two photos you should be able to make out that the rest of the deck is machined a very slight step lower than the liners.

My lesnor Maehr spindle wizard is a very tight machine with a national 40 spindle, xr ball bushing bearings and linear guides, C0 grade precision ground ballscrews, and 750 watt servos on each axis. I just updated the control and have .00005 resolution on the x, y, and z axis and 1/1000 of a degree resolution on the troyke 4th axis. It's very well set up and tuned and I used a 3" iscar tangimill on a sandvik coromant arbor so both the acuracy and finish quality are excellent. Doing the actual machine work takes less time than pulling the pins out of the blocks and getting them bolted to the table. Controling it from my laptop I'm able to walk and peak around all the tight corners as I'm commanding it.

[Dessertrunner]

The engine looks great can't wait to give it a run.
As regards cooling Mike was correct if I turn the fans on manually (not simple to wire in switches as you need diodes to stop grounding ECU) when driving at 120kph the engine temp drops. One catch I found out is that if you don't run the air con it is impossiable for the fans to run at maxium speed. It might be best to dig out the old thread I had on this issue and not take over this one.
Tony

[longassname]

Valve job is done and I dropped off the new valve springs and seals for assembly. I'll be assembling the short block tonight and or tomorrow.

[Sov13t]

What are you doing for the head studs/bolts?

-Sov13t.

[longassname]

ARP 2000 head studs

Originally Posted by Sov13t

What are you doing for the head studs/bolts?

-Sov13t.

[SVXRide]

Michael,
Looks good! Did you ever sell the rod and main bearings you still had on the shelf?
-Bill

[longassname]

I've gone through a bunch of them.

Originally Posted by SVXRide

Michael,
Looks good! Did you ever sell the rod and main bearings you still had on the shelf?
-Bill

[longassname]

I thoroughly washed the block again after machining the deck, blew it off to dry it, oiled the cyllinders and left it for a couple days to let the bolt holes more thoroughly dry.

I started to assemble the short block today--chemically cleaned the mating surfaces, re-installed the main bearings to the same locations I caged them in, began installing the rods on the crank. When I got to installing the rods I didn't like the feel of the tension on the oil film (actually moly-graphite assembly lube). I know what the right oil clearance feels like and this didn't feel like it; they felt too tight. I re-measured the pins and remeasured the caged rod bearings and I got the same measurements as before. I was measuring the bearings with a 2.0-2.4" brown and sharpe intrimik set with a certified setting ring and the crank with a nsk japan 2-3" outside micro set with a certified standard. Since these two extremely acurate, high quality tools were giving me reliable measurements which I believed didn't match I decided to use a bore gage I could set using the outside micrometer to determine if the standards don't match--they didn't. There's a .0008" mis-match between the standards.

I'm not at all happy with the oil clearances being 8 tens tighter than I wanted them so I'm going to have to get the crank polished. Giving each journal and pin 2 turns on a belt polisher will put it just right.