Binding

#1 05-20-2002, 08:03 AM

When I bought my '95 SVX a few months back, I noticed a problem that I now know is called "binding". I knew the steering pump needed to be replaced and I attributed the symptoms to that. After the pump was replaced, some of the symptoms went away, but not the binding problems.

Crunching while turning at low speeds, little jumps and kicks and such.

Can anyone give me detailed information about the cause and what it may take to fix this problem. There are 2 Subaru dealers near me in the Northern New Jersey area and I don't trust either one of them to give me a straight answer or fair price. One of them told me about the binding but told me it's only a minor inconvenience. I can't believe that, it feels like the axle may tear out of the wheel if I don't get this fixed.

Any help would be appreciated...

Aredubjay · #2 05-20-2002, 08:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by InukSean
When I bought my '95 SVX a few months back, I noticed a problem that I now know is called "binding". I knew the steering pump needed to be replaced and I attributed the symptoms to that. After the pump was replaced, some of the symptoms went away, but not the binding problems.

Crunching while turning at low speeds, little jumps and kicks and such.

Can anyone give me detailed information about the cause and what it may take to fix this problem. There are 2 Subaru dealers near me in the Northern New Jersey area and I don't trust either one of them to give me a straight answer or fair price. One of them told me about the binding but told me it's only a minor inconvenience. I can't believe that, it feels like the axle may tear out of the wheel if I don't get this fixed.

Any help would be appreciated...

Sean,
Sounds like your transfer clutch has gone south, but, can't really tell without actually driving it. But that's what it "sounds" like. Are you getting any "trouble codes" flashing from your "power" light? If not, the problem is definitely mechanical and not electrical (i.e. duty solenoids)

#3 05-20-2002, 08:30 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by Aredubjay

Sean,
Sounds like your transfer clutch has gone south, but, can't really tell without actually driving it. But that's what it "sounds" like. Are you getting any "trouble codes" flashing from your "power" light? If not, the problem is definitely mechanical and not electrical (i.e. duty solenoids)

The power light neither stays on past 10 seconds nor blinks at any point.

How much work is it to replace the duty solenoids?

kuoh · #4 05-20-2002, 08:35 AM

It's only a minor inconvenience until something in the transfer case gives and spews metal bits all over the inside of the tranny. Then it becomes roughly 3500 bits of minor inconveniences that you'll have to fork over to the dealer to get another tranny. My advice is don't ignore it and don't let them tell you that it's minor or that doing figure 8's in the parking lot will fix it. If you didn't have to do figure 8's when you first bought it brand new, why would you need to now?

Now as for which dealer to trust, that I can't help you with. I no longer trust any of them to do it right or any better than an import shop. It seems to come down to your luck, or how close you happen to live to Beav or Eddycat

KuoH

Quote:

Originally posted by InukSean
One of them told me about the binding but told me it's only a minor inconvenience. I can't believe that, it feels like the axle may tear out of the wheel if I don't get this fixed.

Aredubjay · #5 05-20-2002, 09:05 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by InukSean

The power light neither stays on past 10 seconds nor blinks at any point.

How much work is it to replace the duty solenoids?

Like I said, if the power light doesn't come on, it isn't the duty solenoids. If it were duty solenoids "A" or "B" you'd only have to pull the valve body, but, duty solenoid "C" handles transfer. It's located inside the extension case, so, would still involve a tranny drop. Again, I doubt if it's the duty solenoids. My guess (only a guess, mind you) is the transfer clutch.

I agree with Kuo, here. Get it checked out ASAP before shards of metal create a major problem. Get a second, and, if needed, third opinion.

#6 05-20-2002, 09:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by kuoh
It's only a minor inconvenience until something in the transfer case gives and spews metal bits all over the inside of the tranny. Then it becomes roughly 3500 bits of minor inconveniences that you'll have to fork over to the dealer to get another tranny. My advice is don't ignore it and don't let them tell you that it's minor or that doing figure 8's in the parking lot will fix it. If you didn't have to do figure 8's when you first bought it brand new, why would you need to now?

Now as for which dealer to trust, that I can't help you with. I no longer trust any of them to do it right or any better than an import shop. It seems to come down to your luck, or how close you happen to live to Beav or Eddycat

KuoH

lol...unfortunately I live nowhere near either of them.

I am going to try to search out an import shop in my area with some Subaru experience.

Any idea what parts I would need to get?

svx_commuter · #7 05-21-2002, 01:32 PM

I work in Englewood. Do you want to measure your transfer pressure? This will tell you if it's the valve stuck open or if the clutches are hanging up. I have changed the transfer valve on my car.

Aredubjay · #8 05-21-2002, 01:41 PM

Here's another thought. Put your FWD fuse in and see if the mess goes away. That'll at least tell you if it's a problem with your rear (no jokes, please. This is serious). If your FWD light doesn't eluminate, it could be your TCU. At any rate, If you can get to John, do it. He'll help you figure it out. You just got to watch out for when his eyes start darting around -- that means he's about to take something apart. Could be a dangerous thing.

<Turns away and walks out, bursting into laughter that was stifled after making the "rear" remark>

wawazat?? · #9 05-21-2002, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by InukSean
When I bought my '95 SVX a few months back, I noticed a problem that I now know is called "binding". I knew the steering pump needed to be replaced and I attributed the symptoms to that. After the pump was replaced, some of the symptoms went away, but not the binding problems.

Crunching while turning at low speeds, little jumps and kicks and such.

Can anyone give me detailed information about the cause and what it may take to fix this problem. There are 2 Subaru dealers near me in the Northern New Jersey area and I don't trust either one of them to give me a straight answer or fair price. One of them told me about the binding but told me it's only a minor inconvenience. I can't believe that, it feels like the axle may tear out of the wheel if I don't get this fixed.

Any help would be appreciated...

The problem is the mechanical components of the transfer clutch assembly and as such you will not throw a code. Depending on the shop and their experience, they *MAY* replace the transfer clutch assembly or may push you to replace the entire transmission. I had the transfer clutch assembly and solenoids replaced under warranty recently at a cost to Subaru of $900.

My advice, get it fixed PRONTO before it grenades the rest of the transmission!

#10 05-21-2002, 06:23 PM

Thank you everybody!!!

I have PM'd svx-commuter to see if he could take a look.

All your advice is greatly appreciated.

#11 05-22-2002, 08:27 PM

update: (in case anyone cares)

I tried Aredubjay's suggestion (with urging from John). I fitted the fuse in the FWD spot and not only did the light turn on, but the problem disappeared. Seems kind of freaky to me.

Next step, fixing the problem once and for all.

svx_commuter · #12 05-29-2002, 07:24 PM

I was over at Sean's and checked out the car. The TCU prior fault diagnostic says it is okay. The light blinks just fine to indicate no prior faults. The transfer pressure is way high when the car is idleing at about 46 psi instead of 10. The line pressure behaves okay with resistor plugged in and goes up when it is unplugged. the transfer pressure is not effected by the line pressure.

The only thing I am not sure about is that the TCU thought everything was okay with the resistor unplugged. No blinking light after the resistor was unplugged and the car was restarted. On my car I have to restart it once to get the power light to blink when the resistor is unplugged.

Sean you should unplug the resistor after the tranny has warmed up, start and stop the car a few times and see if the power light blinks. It really should blink when it is unplugged unless the 95 is different for some reason.

oab_au · #13 05-29-2002, 07:46 PM

If the fuse caused the clutch to disengage, it can't be the plates or the transfer valve. The fuse on your model applies full power to the C sonenoid causing it to bypass all the pilot pressure so the transfer valve has moved back to the off position. It looks like the C solenoid its self is having problems, may be sticking.
What do you think John ?
Harvey.
ps could miss the chance to post my 100.

#14 05-29-2002, 07:52 PM

OK John. I'll drive the car to work again tomorrow and disconnect the resistor while still warm and give a look at the power light.

And I will keep checking back to see the opinions on the C solenoid theory.

vkykam · #15 05-29-2002, 09:12 PM

I hope I'm not too late jumping into the thread here. I've, um, neglected the board for the past 6 weeks. Yes, yes, shame on me.

Anyhoo, don't overlook the obvious. What are the condition of the tires? Do the tread depths match from front to rear? If I recall correctly, all it takes is 2/10ths of an inch difference between front and rear tread depths to cause binding as well.

Good luck.

VK