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  #31  
Old 02-25-2007, 06:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
(2) The drivers door locking latch is depends entirely on electrical control and the sliding lever comprises only an electrical switch, with any mechanical connection restricted to the key barrel. [See (5) below.]
This is not quite correct as per my understanding. I believe that there is a type of loose-coupling between the motor and the mechanism.

When you slide the lever, the latch moves to the locked position but the motor initally remains in the unlocked position. However, because the latch has now moved, the microswitch has disconnected the ground from the control wire, so the controller drives the motor into the locked position - even though the latch is already in the locked position.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
(b) Whether the motor marked “M” has a rotary or linear motion.
The actuator unit operates in a liner fashion, but the motor inside is a rotary type driving plastic gears which move the actuator rod in and out. There are metal contacts inside to define the limits of movement - this internal circuitry is not shown on any diagram. These contacts can wear out or become corroded. If the rubber boot on the actuator rod is split then the actuator can fill up with water which causes no end of problems.

I'm still trying to digest the other information recently presented.
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Last edited by b3lha; 02-25-2007 at 06:20 AM.
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  #32  
Old 02-25-2007, 12:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
... Phil's image is hard to define and as I gather you have originals you are best able to decide. Do colour codes offer any extra confirmation ?
I don't have originals of the diagram that Phil (really John/Suby_Fan) posted. However the relevant circuitry is the same as Subaru's USDM 92 diagram I posted.

Based on some slight differences and lack of wire color designations, I suspect John's is from an aftermarket wiring book. I simply zoomed and rotated for a closer look. It's still difficult to tell whether the digit in question is "6" or "8." But it shows all of the other pin numbers on the Door Lock Timer module going to the same places as on Subaru's diagram.

EDIT: John's diagram is from Subaru's "Service Procedure" for the security module (I didn't realize that I had a copy). I'm surprised Subaru left off the wire colors.

I can definitely tell from my copy that it is pin 8.
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Last edited by SVXdc; 03-03-2007 at 01:31 PM.
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  #33  
Old 02-25-2007, 01:01 PM
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Incidentally, I have already tested the theory in my own car. I don't have the security module -- just the connector. Using an amp meter, I shorted the two corresponding wires (14 and 15) to ground. The doors unlocked and locked as expected. The current draw was only 54mA. So obviously pins 5 and 8 on the DLT are low-current inputs, and the module has relays that drive the actuators.

I'm confident that this method will work in any USDM model. The question remains whether a similarly easy trick is possible in JDMs.

Is anyone aware of any JDMs that do not have lock actuators in both doors? Do all JDM years have some sort of keyless entry (either infrared or RF)?
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  #34  
Old 02-25-2007, 03:12 PM
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Cool Door unlock remote

My main reason for wanting the gear ****er area button was to enable a convienent method of unarming the central locking by both front passengers - it becomes a pain having to contort over your shoulder to unlock or lock doors.

On the NZ new versions there was no motion detector that automatically locked the doors -- unlike JDM or other countries.

I though I would get hold of the central switch & work backwards from the drivers door switch wiring loom etc.

Steve in New Zealand
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  #35  
Old 02-25-2007, 04:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SURTEESS
My main reason for wanting the gear ****er area button was to enable a convienent method of unarming the central locking by both front passengers - it becomes a pain having to contort over your shoulder to unlock or lock doors.

On the NZ new versions there was no motion detector that automatically locked the doors -- unlike JDM or other countries.

I though I would get hold of the central switch & work backwards from the drivers door switch wiring loom etc.

Steve in New Zealand
Steve, it would appear that the NZ system is the same as the Australian, which means that you have a problem in achieving what you desire.

This system has no electrical activation of the locking mechanism in the drivers door. Operation is purely mechanical, but at the same time a switch is moved so as o also unlock the passenger door. Therefore you can not get over the awkward opening of the drivers door.
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Last edited by Trevor; 02-25-2007 at 04:35 PM.
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  #36  
Old 02-25-2007, 06:33 PM
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Did the New Zealand and Australian SVXs have the option for keyless entry?

Quote:
Originally Posted by SURTEESS
My main reason for wanting the gear shifter area button was to enable a convienent method of unarming the central locking by both front passengers - it becomes a pain having to contort over your shoulder to unlock or lock doors.
Steve- Are you saying that when the driver's door is locked, you can't simply pull the inside door handle to open the door?

If/when you pull off your driver's door panel to work on this, please take some pictures and post.
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  #37  
Old 02-26-2007, 02:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc
Incidentally, I have already tested the theory in my own car. I don't have the security module -- just the connector. Using an amp meter, I shorted the two corresponding wires (14 and 15) to ground. The doors unlocked and locked as expected. The current draw was only 54mA. So obviously pins 5 and 8 on the DLT are low-current inputs, and the module has relays that drive the actuators.

I'm confident that this method will work in any USDM model. The question remains whether a similarly easy trick is possible in JDMs.

Is anyone aware of any JDMs that do not have lock actuators in both doors? Do all JDM years have some sort of keyless entry (either infrared or RF)?
Interesting. I wonder if the door lock timer is the same between JDM and USDM models and the only difference is the security module. You might be able to retrofit the JDM automatic locking by wiring Speed Sensor #2 to the door lock timer on a USDM car. Is there an unused pin?

Both my JDM cars have 2 actuators and Infrared keyless entry. I think the wiring on my 92 is similar to the 92 USDM diagram you posted above. It's been a long time since I took it apart, but I was referring to my 92 USDM service manual at the time.

From what Trevor has posted, it sounds as though the Aussie model is like the Canadian model with no motor in the driver's door. I wonder if the wiring is in place such that a JDM lock could be fitted.
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Last edited by b3lha; 02-26-2007 at 02:37 AM.
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  #38  
Old 02-26-2007, 10:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by b3lha
... You might be able to retrofit the JDM automatic locking by wiring Speed Sensor #2 to the door lock timer on a USDM car. Is there an unused pin?
The diagrams show the DLT connector, B89, having 8 pins -- so no spares. But that doesn't preclude Speed Sensor #2 going to some other module, which in turn connects to the DLT's unlock input (pin 8).

Aside: What does the speed-sensitive-lock-cancel button look like? (please refer to my post #19, above)

Quote:
From what Trevor has posted, it sounds as though the Aussie model is like the Canadian model with no motor in the driver's door.
Bear in mind that the Canadian diagram above is for 94 and 95 (possibly 96 and 97 too). The 92 and 93 diagrams cover both US and Canada. That makes it difficult for me to believe that Subaru would have gone to the trouble to omit the driver's door actuator from the 92 in AU and NZ.
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  #39  
Old 02-26-2007, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc
Bear in mind that the Canadian diagram above is for 94 and 95 (possibly 96 and 97 too). The 92 and 93 diagrams cover both US and Canada. That makes it difficult for me to believe that Subaru would have gone to the trouble to omit the driver's door actuator from the 92 in AU and NZ.
It is documented that they did, and there is in fact no use for such an actuator. There is no actuator shown in the drivers door in the AUL and NZ models, as is shown in the manuals.

This thread and another, now contain complete information, but have become confused to the extent that this now difficult to access all of that provided. At this point I feel that there is no more useful information that I can add.
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  #40  
Old 02-27-2007, 02:08 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc
The diagrams show the DLT connector, B89, having 8 pins -- so no spares. But that doesn't preclude Speed Sensor #2 going to some other module, which in turn connects to the DLT's unlock input (pin 8).
No. On my JDM 92 the yellow/red speed signal wire goes directly into the door lock timer above the glovebox. I discovered this when I was converting the cruise control to mph.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXdc
Aside: What does the speed-sensitive-lock-cancel button look like? (please refer to my post #19, above)
I'm not able to photo it at the moment, but it's a non-latching button next to the heated rear window button. The logo is a car door with a key on it. There is no light up indicator.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NZ_SVX
I do have a override button on the left hand side of the steering column however once the car has slowed below the 15kmh it becomes active once the car exceeds 15kmh again.
This is not what happens on mine. Once you press the button it seems to remain cancelled. While I am prepared to believe that mine may be faulty, I have trouble believing that Subaru would design it such that the "correct" operation would require you to press the cancel button every time you stop at a set of traffic lights. More likely it is supposed to remain cancelled until you next turn off the ignition, manually lock the doors or use the IR remote (or some combination of the above). One day I'll trace the wiring and see where it goes.
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1992 Alcyone SVX Version L
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Last edited by b3lha; 02-27-2007 at 02:19 AM.
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  #41  
Old 08-18-2007, 03:58 PM
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To bump an old thread, I'm sitting in the garage right now with a lock/unlock switch from a 96 that I'm about to try and make work in my 92 LS-L.

Along with that is an alarm and remote start module by Clifford. I'll post my findings when it's all done.
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  #42  
Old 08-19-2007, 01:44 AM
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I can confirm that this is quite simple to do. Just a matter of attaching black to ground, using a DMM to figure out which wire (orange or orange/green) is lock/unlock (done by testing continuity), then running a wire for each back to the security module harness, and tapping into the lock and unlock wires.

Worked like a charm.
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