intake manifold

[immortal_suby]

There was a small hole in the center of the gunk in the EGR pipe but who knows what it looked like upstream of that and if there was any flow at all. The car has felt alot better since - I haven't had the dragging an anchor feeling yet this week.
I am driving from SC to disneyland tomorrow so that should give me a good test of highway mileage - the best I ever got before was 27mpg and I normally average 25-26 on long highway trips.
I am also curious to see if the oil looks clearer for a longer time. It used to stay perfectly clear between oil changes but lately it has been darker at oil change time - same brand oil and filters used always.

[Beav]

Darker oil shows signs of combustion by-products in oil, such as rings not sealing well, etc. With 157k it should be considered normal, but something you may try would be using an engine flush the next few times you change oil. There's a number of good flushes out there, Rislone and Marvel Hi-Rev come to mind. Just be careful to follow the instructions explicitly. What you'll be attempting to do is loosen the sludge that builds up in the piston rings. Usually oil cokes up the rings and they don't float freely, allowing the oil contamination. It can't hurt and may cure, and as an experiment it should only cost a few bucks additional per oil change.

Have a good trip and be safe!

[immortal_suby]

The best mileage I got was 25mpg. This may have been screwed up since the plastic part of the radiator cracked and I had to limp around for a while watching the temp gauge. Luckily I had a stick of epoxy gunk in the svx medkit which sealed it enough that it only leaked slowly and I could get about 100 miles before losing enough water to make the temp go up enough to have to pull over. On a good note - still no anchor draggin feeling - feels as strong as ever.
I should have known this would be an eventful trip when the wife called me friday morning to tell me her svx's tranny was slipping. After swapping cars in a parking lot I drove hers to work with only a little slippage once it got heated up and then it lost all its marbles on the way home and had to be flatbedded to the house Not sure exactly what is broke - it lost all gears eventually after slipping badly in all of them - even lower gears. When mine blew I was able to drive it for 2 weeks with only high speed slippage and weird shifts - this one happened pretty quick.
Ah - the joys of owning 2 svx's - 2 tranny replacements within months of eachother.
We did find a local import shop that actually knew what an svx was, claims they have access and use all of the subaru TSB's and all subaru parts, 1 year warranty, and - $1200-$1800 max guaranteed - including torque converter replacement. I'm glad we did too cause my hands are still healing from replacing my own.

[gtdanielgt]

Extremely old yet extremely useful thread guys... I will be attacking this project over the weekend, and hopefully having the car running as good as new and free of that annoying dummy light on the dash.

[gtdanielgt]

Hey guys,

Got the manifold off last night and sure as spit you guys were dead on about the brittle vacuum hoses, some were cracked already, others cracked when taking the manifold off...the good news is none of the plastic 'nipples' broke, yay! Can anyone tell me where the pcv valve and the egr valve are? I bought the pcv valve, and want to clean the egr as you guys suggested...but im dumbfounded as to the locations of these too...i know everyone is prolly thinkin 'what a dumbash'...thanks for the help...

-Daniel

[immortal_suby]

The PCV valve is on the underside of the intake just behind the IRIS valve. 17mm socket should get it off.


EGR is on the passenger side rear of the engine but you won't be able to reach it really to clean it


EGR port is on the passenger side rear of the intake manifold. It is the one where you had to take 2 little (8mm?) bolts out to disconnect the pipe.

[immortal_suby]

Oh yeah - get some valvoline synthetic carb cleaner to clean out the throttle body and intake. This stuff is awesome. I did the pepsi challenge with it and other carb cleaners and this stuff is the best. It instantly dissolves gunk.

[gtdanielgt]

hey matt, you are a lifesaver as usual..thank you so much I'm going to tackle the pcv tonight when i get off work, do you suggest removing the egr valve and then just spraying the cleaner into it several times until it comes out clear? whats the best method...also according to someone else, seafoam is great stuff.. After putting everything back together i plan on running that stuff through the vacuum like the bottle suggests.

Thanks again everyone for all your help.

-Daniel

[immortal_suby]

I've never removed an EGR valve so I can't say much about it.
I just clean the EGR pipe and then clean the part of the intake manifold where it connects. Spray cleaner in there and if it is really caked up you may have to use a smal screwdriver or something to clear out the gunk.

[TomsSVX]

2+2 Gum cutter. Best **** ever to clean intakes and TB's. I have tried everything and this stuff really works

Tom

[gtdanielgt]

Hey guys my friend and I are trying to get the manifold back on and I asked him before hand to make sure he knows where everything goes and he said he did, but now we can't figure out some of the vacuum lines. Can someone please save the day and post or tell me the location of the vacuum line diagram? Thank you so much everyone! I need to have it finished tonight cuz the rental car goes back tomorrow...

-Daniel

[SVXRide]

Be careful not to break any of the plastic nipples on the valves!







-Bill

[gtdanielgt]

Ok an update on my situation.

Got everything back together beautifully thanks to all of you and your diagrams and suggestions..thank god for this forum and you wonderful people.

Now the BULL**** problem is the check engine light is displaying a code of 22 which im sure you guys know is RH knock sensor. HOW CAN THIS POSSIBLY BE?
The only code showing before the whole manifold was taken off was code 28...LH knock sensor...and it had a visible crack in it. Now that code has gone away, but as you gentleman suggested, it is best to replace them in pairs which I did. Now with a BRAND new sensor in both places, its throwing code 22.. I am dumbfounded, greasy, tired and EXTREMELY frustrated. Please anyone out there let me know where I need to go for here.

I am very thankful for all of your help.

-Daniel

[gtdanielgt]

No one can help me out here ?





Daniel

[Earthworm]

If you reset the code will it return?