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  #1  
Old 05-26-2005, 09:45 AM
AvPPoW AvPPoW is offline
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Exclamation Solenoid C

My car developed a weird binding problem. When I drive, it feels like there is rubbing. When driving in a straight line, the car whines when I let off the gas, and I need more power to move than normal. The whining sounds like a failed pump (or possibly sticking valve). When I turn it locks up even moreso. feels like it's rubbing. I took off all four wheels and it it not physically rubbing anywhere but rather struggling right from the tranny. The tcu threw me a code 24 the other day and I assume it's either duty solenoid C, the recall transmission filter, or the internal transmission filter (do I even have one of these, or is that what the recall filter is on the '92?). I drained/replaced oil/atf and made sure all fluid levels were good. My ATF was only slight brown with little to no metallic flakes, which leads me to believe that it's the solenoid as the tranny doesnt seem worn (shifts better than ever since the new ATF!).

I'm looking to replace my solenoid C assembly. I came up with these parts for the fix. Can anyone confirm that this is all I need to do the solenoid swap, or give me correct part numbers/advice? While I'm under my car, I'd like to swap the transmission filter too. From what I've heard '92s lack an internal transmission filter. Is this true? If so, where can I get a replacement recall/campaign filter.

31942AA070 Pt040396 Vlv Ay Trf
31952AA030 Plate Transfer Valve
31954AA071 Gasket Transfer Valv

Any advice, suggestions, etc, would be really appriciated.

Thanks, John
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  #2  
Old 05-26-2005, 11:04 AM
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I did this work on my SVX about 4 years and 120k miles ago. Mine was stuck so that there was no RWD.

You have to take down the exhaust so you need the exhaust gaskets and springs and bolts and nuts. I replaced all five gaskets so that there would be less chance of a leak afterwards. The spring bolts had to be cut out with a saws all.

I used a new plate and gasket for both sides because I do not like to spend time cleaning old gaskets off if I can avoid it.

You will need the gasket between the transfer housing and the tranny.

There are more searchable posts on this subject.
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  #3  
Old 05-26-2005, 11:35 AM
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Check on the AWD clutch itself. You may want to replace it while you're in there.
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  #4  
Old 05-26-2005, 12:17 PM
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If it's whining while going strait, measure your tire diameters, according to Subaru they have to be within 1/4" of each other.
It sounds like your solenoid C is bad, but install the 10 amp. FWD fuse in the under hood fuse box and see if the symptoms go away.

P.s. The 92s had/have internal filters.
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Last edited by svxfiles; 05-26-2005 at 12:20 PM.
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  #5  
Old 05-26-2005, 12:52 PM
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Pics in my locker from when Tom (SVXFiles) and I replaced the Solenoid C in my '92.
-Bill
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  #6  
Old 05-26-2005, 12:59 PM
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With the FWD fuse, it doesn't bind. It does however, whine (alot less than without the fuse, but theres still a little whine). Car was driving fine, parked it, drove it again and symptoms developed. I don't think tire diameter problems would happen so quickly
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  #7  
Old 05-26-2005, 01:27 PM
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With the fuse installed, go to an empty parking lot and make some very small circles, slow speed circles as tight as the wheel will allow, then do it in the other direction.
If the clutches are stuck together this might free them up(maybe?).
Is it possible that there is a second similar whine?
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  #8  
Old 05-26-2005, 03:10 PM
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This may sound stupid but are all four tires equely worn. When I had my replaced, the previous owner had new on front and old on back. there was about a 1 to 1.5 inch circumfrence differenc. this will cause some binding. remember AWD = all tires the same.

Steve
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  #9  
Old 05-26-2005, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxfiles
With the fuse installed, go to an empty parking lot and make some very small circles, slow speed circles as tight as the wheel will allow, then do it in the other direction.
If the clutches are stuck together this might free them up(maybe?).
Is it possible that there is a second similar whine?
I tryed this and the symptoms I was having seem to be gone. I'm going to give it a few days to make sure it is really gone. Not even pulling a sol c code now.

Thanks, hope it is gone for good
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  #10  
Old 05-26-2005, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvPPoW
I tryed this and the symptoms I was having seem to be gone. I'm going to give it a few days to make sure it is really gone. Not even pulling a sol c code now.

Thanks, hope it is gone for good
another happy patient of Dr. SVXFiles....
-Bill
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  #11  
Old 05-26-2005, 09:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvPPoW
I tryed this and the symptoms I was having seem to be gone. I'm going to give it a few days to make sure it is really gone. Not even pulling a sol c code now.

Thanks, hope it is gone for good
ReadingVideoReadingVideoReadingVideoReadingVideoRe adingVideoReadingVideoReadingVideo
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  #12  
Old 05-27-2005, 12:47 AM
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I took John's car out for a ride today to assess the damage and fine out what the heck he was talking about... Well, I am stumped

Really though, his car shifts fine and there is absolutley no binding. There is still one problem. there is a whine in the car when the accelerator is not active while cruising. Like a bad bearing on the ass end of the pinion in the transmission. Anyone who has had a pinion gear loose(in any rwd car/truck) knows what I am talking about. It cruizes under pressure fine but when the accelerator is let go, there is a pretty loud whine/whirr. I thought it was his diff at first so i check the fluid....No reading on the dipstick, so I pulled a quart of gear oil out of my box o tricks in the trunk of my car and dumped it in. Filling him up the the low line we made a run to local Wal-mart to get more. Once filling him up I thought we may have dispersed of the problem. To no avail as it is still very much present. I do not believe it is in the front diff at all at this point. In this photo The bottom bearing is which I speak of. I feel this bearing has gone bad in a turn of events and is allowing movement of the pinion shaft. I bleive this is where his noise is comming from. If anyone may agree with my opinion or oppose it please do because I am very much uncertain...It could even be the center bearing on the drivshaft for all I know. I think this is feasible, although I would like to get it up on a lift and have the wheels spinning.

Tom
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  #13  
Old 05-27-2005, 02:08 AM
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If installing the FWD fuse reduces the whine, I think that would indicate a problem with the rear driveline. This sort of problem can be difficult to diagnose. An experienced transmission expert might be able to listen to it and tell you exactly what it is. ...or he may not. It requires luck sometimes and may be a waste of money.

First, if installing the FWD fuse does reduce the whine, I would inspect the driveline with a mechanic's stethoscope; Just listen for a grinding while turning the parts slowly. You might even remove all of it, starting with the propeller shaft. (Sucky, I know.)

Having somebody drive along side you with their window down can help find the location of the whine. Sounds often seem to come from areas far away from the actual source. (My exhaust resonator was buzzing. With the windows down it seemed to come from the engine compartment, but with the windows up it seemed to come from under the trunk. It wasn't until I drove around with the door open and my head hanging down six inches from the asphalt that I could tell exactly what was making the nose. We have 4 header joints, 3 catalytic converters, 1 intermediate joint, 1 resonator, 1 muffler joint, 1 muffler, and 2 exhaust tips as possible sources.)

It might help us if you were to describe more precisely what the 'whine' sounds like, and exactly when it happens.
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  #14  
Old 05-27-2005, 08:34 AM
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The whine is part whine and part grind. When I go to accelerate, all is fine, if I take my foot off the pedal, the whine occurs. When I need to downshift, if I go into neutral it takes pressure off the driveline and seems to make less noise. With the fuse in, the whining still occurs. I DID have binding however, so what I believe happened is whatever broke off back there got clogged in Solenoid C or the transfer clutch until I broke them free. I no longer get a code 24, and my car is working properly in AWD, though its in front wheel now to lessen the damage. I am not driving the car until it's fixed. Work and school are close to home and I can bum rides or bike. If this problem becomes too expensive to deal with, I'll be looking into a 4.11 or 5spd swap.

Oh, and SVXFiles, Earthworm has been uploading them since I posted the thread. I think I'll post again and see if anyone else can provide the bandwith.

Thanks guys
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  #15  
Old 05-27-2005, 08:49 AM
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Thank you!





So, ya SAW that didja?
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My locker
4.44 Swap link
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