New Trannie Binding Questions (Help!)

[Tim]

I was never able to find hte lsd differential additive. Where can you get it?

TE1221 Check your PM's, sorry about the delay

[SSSVX]

Originally posted by 96svxer
Well Binding issues are gone, I took Kervin Subaru's advise and added slip differential additive to my trannie, and instantly the problem was gone.

Thanks guys!

The 100% Success rate continues.

I'm just wondering if your binding has ever come back since that day?

How many miles have you put on your SVX already since you added the additive thing? Change any new tires so far?

Wow that thread was a plast from the past. I am happy to say my tranny has worked flawlessly since i added the additive, I have put around 10,000 miles on her since. I have the same tires on the car since I bought it. I would recommend the additive to anyone with binding problems.

[SSSVX]

Thanks for your reply.

It looks like a good cheap solution for pple who's experienced bindining problem.

P.S: Did you do any tire rotations in betn this 10,000miles?

No tire rotations. Car is AWD not much difference in wear between all sets of tires.

[SSSVX]

But, for my experience, if i don't rotate my tires, my front tires do wear out much faster than the rear ones. (our front-end is heavy).

Maybe your awd system is activated more often than mine?? But,
my awd does work pretty well during this winter so far.

I have the binding problem on my UK imported JDM 92 model. I understand there are differences between the transmission specs on these and the US models i.e. it is permanent 4WD. Does anyone know if the Brad Penn Additive would work on these as well?

[nysvx10]

Where can I find some of this additive? Does anyone have a link for an online store?

Hey a fellow upstater. I got my additive at Pepboys. I'm would think autozone would have something comparable.

[msvx95]

hey look at my post called AWD binding again...just posted today...I am looking for an answer too...I bought some stuff, but online, so I couldn't check the label for what it actually does...

Does this Kerven dealership still sell to the public??

[blue thunder]

I'm also having this binding issue and had a question. I am getting a c solenoid code #24 so I ordered a new c solenoid transfer valve for my subaru mechanic to put in. I dropped my car off for this part to be put in and now he wants me to get a whole series of parts additionally. He hasn't started any repairs. He is assuming that the clutch plates are bad and all the gaskets and rings etc... I have driven a few weeks with this binding going on. I'm going to try this LSD additive tommorrow if I can find it. Worth a try. If the c solenoid is stuck does it usually damage the clutch plates. Just looking for second opinions. They already replaced the rear differential when that wasn't the problem. Thanks.

Mike

[sperry]

Bump!

After my 4.44 swap fiasco (I had a 4.11 rearend on the car for a bit...) my new 4.44 has some binding. So I figured, this additive might be an easy "fix".

I grabbed some stuff from my local Kragen, and dumped it in with the ATF. It took a little bit of driving around before it started to help (I took a few laps around the neighborhood). I would say the binding is about 90% gone, but it's not "fixed". In addition, I'm noticing harsher shifts and light vibration while idling in D, like at a stop light. Pop it into N and the vibration stops. It seems like this additive stuff may do more than just assist the transfer clutch!

So I'm curious...

1st, why does the friction modifier help the transfer clutches? This stuff is supposed to make gear oil less slippery... so why does higher viscosity ATF work against binding?

2nd, what is the downside to putting this stuff in a 4EAT's ATF? I've got to think that it's going to raise temperatures at the torque converter (I better install my tranny cooler/filter before spring!). I also have to think that in the long term, this stuff will be bad for the gears themselves (and anything else that needs unmodified ATF for lubrication).

3rd, since I've still got some binding, should I just go and replace the transfer clutches and flush all this modified ATF out of the tranny? What parts do I need, and does anyone have a how-to or instructions for doing the transfer clutch repair on a '96 Legacy 4.44 4EAT?

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by sperry

Bump!

After my 4.44 swap fiasco (I had a 4.11 rearend on the car for a bit...) my new 4.44 has some binding. So I figured, this additive might be an easy "fix".

I grabbed some stuff from my local Kragen, and dumped it in with the ATF. It took a little bit of driving around before it started to help (I took a few laps around the neighborhood). I would say the binding is about 90% gone, but it's not "fixed". In addition, I'm noticing harsher shifts and light vibration while idling in D, like at a stop light. Pop it into N and the vibration stops. It seems like this additive stuff may do more than just assist the transfer clutch!

So I'm curious...

1st, why does the friction modifier help the transfer clutches? This stuff is supposed to make gear oil less slippery... so why does higher viscosity ATF work against binding?

2nd, what is the downside to putting this stuff in a 4EAT's ATF? I've got to think that it's going to raise temperatures at the torque converter (I better install my tranny cooler/filter before spring!). I also have to think that in the long term, this stuff will be bad for the gears themselves (and anything else that needs unmodified ATF for lubrication).

3rd, since I've still got some binding, should I just go and replace the transfer clutches and flush all this modified ATF out of the tranny? What parts do I need, and does anyone have a how-to or instructions for doing the transfer clutch repair on a '96 Legacy 4.44 4EAT?

Hi Mate, read the thread, and I think the binding problems that you have may be normal. Well normal in as much as there may be nothing wrong to fix.

When you do the 3.5 to 4.44 swap, you end up with a "front to rear" rotational difference at the TCU.

The front speed sensor, is still reading the same revolutions as it did before, where as the rear speed sensor, is now reading about 20% faster. This is about the maximum difference, for the TCU to allow for turning, so it may consider the rotational difference to be wheel spin, and apply some transfer clutch to stop it.

Just a theory, but makes sense to me.

Harvey.

[sperry]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Hi Mate, read the thread, and I think the binding problems that you have may be normal. Well normal in as much as there may be nothing wrong to fix.

When you do the 3.5 to 4.44 swap, you end up with a "front to rear" rotational difference at the TCU.

The front speed sensor, is still reading the same revolutions as it did before, where as the rear speed sensor, is now reading about 20% faster. This is about the maximum difference, for the TCU to allow for turning, so it may consider the rotational difference to be wheel spin, and apply some transfer clutch to stop it.

Just a theory, but makes sense to me.

Harvey.

Are there two speed sensors? I was under the impression that there's just the one 3 wire speed sensor from the OEM tranny that gets reused after the swap. No one else w/ a 4.44 swap has had issues with binding, or with the speedo reading incorrectly if they reuse the OEM sensor.

Finally, if there really was a problem with the conversion as you suggest, then I would expect it to be at all times, not just around corners. My symptoms are right in line w/ a worn transfer clutch.