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  #1  
Old 10-04-2002, 01:27 AM
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Do "new rotors" need to be turned?

I'm referring to the drilled/slotted ones that I got from ebay. I am considering doing them myself, but only if turning is not a requirement.
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Old 10-04-2002, 05:20 AM
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I checked them with a dial indicator while installing them. They all had less than .002" lateral runout, which was probably just hub runout/mounting. As long as they weren't bounced real hard you should be good to go. Just use a cheap set of pads to break them in, they aren't chamfered and will probably slice up a good set of pads before the slot and hole edges are worn a bit.
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Old 10-04-2002, 01:07 PM
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Thanks for the reply! How do you like them? Hmm I was going to wait until I needed a brake change as well before installing them, but you bring up a good point.

I may be naive, but how do you tell if something has been cadmium plated? According to the listing, it was supposed to be cadmium plated for rust proofing.

I somehow expected them to be shinnier
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Old 10-04-2002, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by htyei
Thanks for the reply! How do you like them? Hmm I was going to wait until I needed a brake change as well before installing them, but you bring up a good point.

I may be naive, but how do you tell if something has been cadmium plated? According to the listing, it was supposed to be cadmium plated for rust proofing.

I somehow expected them to be shinnier
Cadmium is kinda like chrome that isn't buffed and polished. It's mostly used as a rust retardant for areas that don't need to be shiny. I've had mine on for a week or so, and even with the little squalls we've had lately they still look like they did the day I put them on (less the swept area where the pads run.)
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Old 10-05-2002, 03:19 PM
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I bought the same set of rotors from ebay but on beav's advice called them and had them made slotted only. I put new pads on the car about 4 months ago. Would I be stupid to use these pads to break in the new rotors since they already have their own 'shape' to them. I know new pads are cheap so I have no problem getting a set but can I safely skip it?

One other thing - do the brake shoes for the parking brake need to be replaced with the new rotors? I've never taken off the rear rotors to have a look at them but how worn can they really be?
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Old 10-05-2002, 04:13 PM
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Use whatever pads you want, I just wanted to forewarn those that may have bought something expensive. Parking brake will be as normal unless someone has previously machined and adjusted the shoes to fit - extremely unlikely. In 32 years I've never done it on any car.
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Old 10-05-2002, 06:13 PM
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Is adjusting a parking brake viable DIY?

Whats the process?


I know My parking brake won't even really engage unless I pay it up so hard, my mom can't put it back down.
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Old 10-05-2002, 07:04 PM
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Shoe Clearance Adjustment

1. Remove adjusting hole cover from back plate (rubber plug)
2. Turn adjusting screw using a flat screwdriver (move screwdriver upward) until brake shoes touch the drum (will stop moving)
3. Turn back (downward) adjusting screw 3 or 4 notches.
4. Install adjusting hole cover into back plate.

Lever Stroke Adjustment
1. Remove console box lid.
2. Forcebly pull parking brake lever 3 to 5 times.
3. Adjust parking brake lever by turning adjuster until parking brake lever stroke is set at 6 to 7 notches withoperating force of 44 lb.
4. Tighten lock nut.
5. Install console box lid.

Attached is the scan from the shop manual so you can see what they are talking about.

Doug
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File Type: gif parking.gif (204.0 KB, 135 views)
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Last edited by mohrds; 10-05-2002 at 07:08 PM.
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