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  #1  
Old 02-15-2007, 05:35 PM
Hop Hop is offline
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timing belt specs?

I've received my t-belt/waterpump parts from subaruparts.com and hope to start the work tomorrow. I was slightly disappointed as there was no fanfare when I opened the box, then the parts didn't magically fly out and mount themselves to the car and to finally top it off, you can imagine my surprise when there was no mini mechanic in the box to install the stuff. I guess that I'll just have to do it myself. Crap...I wonder if I could talk the wife into doing it?

Does anyone know if there are torque specs for the 10 or so bolts that mount the water pump?

I found these other specs:

cam sprocket bolts:80-94
harmonic damper bolt:106-123
t-belt idler pulleys:30 note:all are in ft-lbs

Are there any other specs that I should be aware of? t-belt covers?
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  #2  
Old 02-15-2007, 05:40 PM
davew833 davew833 is offline
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You have to pay extra for the mini-mechanic. But it's worth it because his little hands fit where yours won't-- he's great for spark plug changes and such.
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  #3  
Old 02-15-2007, 05:46 PM
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Crazy_pilot Crazy_pilot is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davew833
You have to pay extra for the mini-mechanic. But it's worth it because his little hands fit where yours won't-- he's great for spark plug changes and such.
My dog ate the mini-mechanic.
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Old 02-15-2007, 05:48 PM
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Water pump is 7-10 lbs, and the cover is 4 lbs. Check the How-To documents (look for the locker named "How-To") for others.
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92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping
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  #5  
Old 02-15-2007, 06:51 PM
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Simple question:

Do you all really go out and invest in torque wrenches to tighten up bolts on water pumps, timing covers, spark plugs, license plates, tire valve caps, etc?

I need to go back into the tool biz, apparently I was marketing to the wrong target group.

BTW, if your torque wrench cost less than $150 it probably isn't worth owning. That's not to say a torque wrench should cost that much, it's just that the market has allowed that to occur.
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Last edited by Beav; 02-15-2007 at 07:05 PM.
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  #6  
Old 02-15-2007, 08:07 PM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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Torque specs apply to precision parts... the water pump needs to be snug but not over tightened.

Tom
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  #7  
Old 02-15-2007, 08:20 PM
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Nobody told me that the mini mech was more. Man, nothing is for free nowadays is it? Doesn't matter though does it now that he's been eaten by Chris's dog -- I hope that your dog can at least tell you how to fix things

Chris, Thanks for the torque specs on the WP I looked but didn't find them.

Hey Beav, I don't own a torque wrench, I just run down to the local auto zone and sign it when I need it (no charge and it's a pretty good tool). Personally I favor the grunt method but I find that I freq overtorque bolts and have broken quite a few off which caused mucho trouble. Overtorquing with an alum block = bad!

Torquing a tire valve cap? Bet you had to snicker when you wrote that didn't you I guess that I won't ask if there is a bolt pattern used for tighening the water pump 1-6-5-3-4-2
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  #8  
Old 02-15-2007, 09:32 PM
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Trevor Trevor is offline
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Beav is pointing out that it is not difficult to feel when a bolt/nut is tight and not stretched. As mentioned, the tendency is usually to over do it.

This is often due to a set of spanners/wrenches, having the smaller sizes quite long. Good for reach, but bad if the added leverage is not taken into account. As a rule, if possible I always grip them short.

Fine automotive threads, exert a real advantage when it comes to leverage. The days of blacksmiths square nuts, is long gone. (Even if they did have them.)

Please take this as comment and not as a lecture.
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Old 02-15-2007, 11:21 PM
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I always said the first two years of a mechanic's life was learning how far he could go with things. And how to fix them after he broke them.

I realize there's little reason for most people to purchase a good torque wrench but loaners from the parts store are probably worse than guessing. They have been abused by almost every single person that picks them up. They get used as a breaker bar (the damage is done everytime someone continues past the click), they are rarely stored properly (they have a spring inside that needs to have its tension released as soon as the job is done in order to have a chance of staying in calibration), they have to be recalibrated on a special test fixture at least once each year (remember the spring?) and that goes for a wrench that a single mechanic uses - at least double that for a shared tool. Ninety pound weaklings yanking on them to hit a sixty pound setting, cheater pipes, dropped in the mud/gas/oil, pitched in the truck bed, etc., etc. Funny, people get more upset about renting a video tape that wasn't rewound.

Use the six-pack method. Exert as much effort as it takes to lift one or two six-packs. If the bolt breaks, drink the six-pack.
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  #10  
Old 02-16-2007, 04:10 AM
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Darren Darren is offline
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Is the six pack method beers or 2 body builders from your local gym?
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  #11  
Old 02-16-2007, 09:30 AM
STORMINORMAN STORMINORMAN is offline
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Lightbulb Actually, the Craftsman...

Microtork wrenches are available in 3/8" drive with a 25 to 250 in-lbs. range #44593 as well as the more common (& longer!) 20 to 150 ft-lbs. #44595 and are probably accurate enough for anything a DIY'er needs to do. Under $40 on sale, as I recall. Handy if you have a motorcycle.

Still, I should'a bought the Mac 1/4" drive torque wrench I saw at the tool exchange for $75 a couple years ago, though... That was one fine precision tool.

Cheers!
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  #12  
Old 02-16-2007, 11:34 AM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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I use my torque wrench most on my wheel lug nuts.
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