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#1
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Turn key, doesn't start
On my 92 LS-L i turn the key, and it clicks. i turn it off, and on, click, off, on, click, off, on, start. Then it runs fine. If it weren't happening like that, i'd think it was the starter, the battery, or the connection, but when it starts, it starts right up with no hesitation. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, how did yo ufix it? Thanks.
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*No SVX at the moment...* 1987 Winnebago Elandan 35' 2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver. Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!! |
#2
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It's probably the starter. They go out like that...makes you go running around trying other fixes but no it's the starter. Don't get one from an auto parts store. Either get one from the suby dealer or get a used one off of an almost new suby.
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#3
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1. Clean up the connections between the starter and battery (make sure the battery is good).
If that doesn't fix it: 1. Try to replace the starter solenoid contacts. This is likely the cause of your trouble. If you can't replace those, you'll probably have to replace the whole starter. 2. If those don't work - it might be the ignition switch or igniter, but those are rather unlikely. The solenoid contacts most often cause that clicking sound you described.
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-Jason (8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95 Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod, svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar, silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear (1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver (12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k) I have a bad feeling about this. -Obi Wan Kenobi |
#4
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My car has done this exact same thing for a long time (since I bought it). I replaced the starter once when my car quit starting altogether (left me in a post office parking lot, but even though the starter is buried in there, it still is not that hard to replace, I replaced it in the parking lot), but the starter I replaced it with was a used one, and it still does the exact same thing, the car will start 90% of the time correctly, then once in a while it does that turn the key and click thing.
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#5
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This same problem has been thrashed out many times and the ignition switch has been the culprit. The evidence is on record so do a search.
Whatever you do, don't replace the starter without properly diagnosing the exact problem.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#6
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I'm not sure that is exactly correct. I believe some people used a relay to send more current to the solenoid than the ignition key does to solve the problem but it doesn't necessarily follow that the ignition key is the problem.
Often times a great deal of the problem is the contact on the solenoid isn't very good. When you're stuck in a parking lot it never hurts to give that spade connection a jiggle and try to get it on real tight. Even better, remove the plastic and adjust the spade to actually fit on tightly. None the less these starters do weird things when they start going bad. If you see your clock dim out when you turn the key and the car doesn't start that's not your ignition switch. That's basically a short through the starter and it sucks so much life out of the electrical system you'll register a voltage drop accross all other contact points even if they are relatively good. If your clock doesn't dim start looking at your ignition switch. Quote:
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#7
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well... lets put it this way...
I had this problem with my 6mt for some time... I knew exactly what was causing the issue but never got around to fixing it... Finally I replaced my neutral saftey switch wires with 14AWG wires instead of the 22-24 gauge I had in there... problem has since been non-existant. SO this goes to show it is lack of good current to the starter... Trevor said it right... when its doing this its most likely the ignition switch on the way out Tom |
#8
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#9
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Looking at working on this one today. I'll report back with results.
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Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#10
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Re: Turn key, doesn't start
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where is the spade connector |
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