How to install a camber correction kit?

I recently got my hands on a front and rear camber correction kit... and by "kit", I mean four little bolts.

Anyway, does anyone have any knowledge/instructions on the installation of these? The ones that I have are very similar to these:



I would honestly have no idea where to start, as I am still somewhat of a "suspension moron."

Thanks all.

[mbtoloczko]

Hi Garrett. Unless you are going to lower the car by more than an inch, you don't need to install the aftermarket front camber kit. The front suspension already has camber bolts in it that are good for about +/- 1 deg of camber.

The installation is pretty easy for the rear (or front). Jack up the car, remove the rear wheels, match mark the strut body against the knuckle, loosen the lower strut-to-knuckle nut, then re-snug it, and then remove the upper strut-to-knuckle nut and bolt. You'll probably find that the nuts needs some liquid wrench before they will easily break free. Install the camber washer, bolt, and nut in the upper strut-to-knuckle hole. The washer does not go with the nut but with bolt head. The washer needs to be oriented on the strut hole so that the tab on the washer sits in the hole. If you get the tab properly positioned, then as you spin the camber bolt (with the lower strut-to-knuckle bolt loosened), the camber on the knuckle will change. You'll have to take the car in for an alignment to set the camber values properly. Changing the rear camber will also change the rear toe slightly, so you'll probably have to adjust the rear toe back to zero after you set the camber.

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

Hi Garrett. Unless you are going to lower the car by more than an inch, you don't need to install the aftermarket front camber kit. The front suspension already has camber bolts in it that are good for about +/- 1 deg of camber.

The installation is pretty easy for the rear (or front). Jack up the car, remove the rear wheels, match mark the strut body against the knuckle, loosen the lower strut-to-knuckle nut, then re-snug it, and then remove the upper strut-to-knuckle nut and bolt. You'll probably find that the nuts needs some liquid wrench before they will easily break free. Install the camber washer, bolt, and nut in the upper strut-to-knuckle hole. The washer does not go with the nut but with bolt head. The washer needs to be oriented on the strut hole so that the tab on the washer sits in the hole. If you get the tab properly positioned, then as you spin the camber bolt (with the lower strut-to-knuckle bolt loosened), the camber on the knuckle will change. You'll have to take the car in for an alignment to set the camber values properly. Changing the rear camber will also change the rear toe slightly, so you'll probably have to adjust the rear toe back to zero after you set the camber.

I think I can visualize what you're saying... But as mentioned, I am sort of a suspension retard. Vehicle suspension is one of the few and final things that still perplexes me about cars. So does anyone have any pictures of the rear strut area? A quick little map to what-is-what would help.

Thanks Mychailo (again).

I just tried doing a search for "rear suspension" and "rear suspension pic" to no avail. I also tried browsing a lot of the lockers. I know that there has got to be a picture of the rear strut-area some place on this site...

Well, I wrote down your instructions, took a peek at the exploded diagrams on subaruparts.com, and did what I could.

The following picture is from my cell phone, so the quality is a little low. You can make out the things in the picture though (and my labels help).

So, did I do it correctly? If not, please let me know. I will fix it tomorrow.

[SVXRide]

Better yet, take the rear camber bolts to a good alignment shop and have them install them and do a 4 wheel alignment...(as Mychailo said, changing camber does effect toe)
Speaking from experience, the stock front bolts are good to -1.5 degrees of camber.
-Bill

[mbtoloczko]

Originally Posted by deruvian

...

So, did I do it correctly? If not, please let me know. I will fix it tomorrow.

That's about how I expected that camber bolt system to look. If you loosen the camber nut and the lower strut mounting nut, then as you turn the camber bolt, you should see the angle between the strut and the knuckle changing.

The orientation of the camber bolt washer will affect whether the range is say, from 0 to +1 deg or from 0 to -1 deg. That tab on the washer is what does it.