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#706
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i am not going to bother. This kit is ideal for a stock motor on no more than 9psi. On my motor is doing more bad than good. I am so fed up with it I want it off
Tom |
#707
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Quote:
Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#708
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well it pulls timing regardless of the pulley size now. I have put the 9psi pulley back on my built motor and it is still picking up knock. i need to take some time and install the "new" software Mike sent me but I am not crossing my fingers for this one. I have had the system for over a year and with the level of effort and income placed into making big power with this, it is just not performing to 1/2 my expectations. I am severely disappointed in this right now.
Tom |
#709
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If I had a 6 sp.
All the more reason to run nitrous on a low compression ccrengine.
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#710
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I plan on running a single turbo. Not nitrous
Tom |
#711
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good luck....large single turbo ej25s have been proven 600-mid 700 wheel hp already....so if the eg33 heads were able to flow enough i don't see any reason we cant see similar numbers
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] STi BBS wheels,legacy gt 4.44, 3" catback exhaust, Stance GR+ 7k/5k, QS Teflon adjustable endlinks, Hankook EVO 245/40/17, 95-LS escaine seats, GC8 V7 steering wheel, JDM clear corners, small car clear lenses, Alcyone badge, JDM rear taillight, 97 grille, stevesby bumper, PWR radiator, Perrin Crank pulley, Urethane Swaybar bushings, urethane diff bushings, DDM 6k 55watt lows and 4500k 35watt fog lights; $15/15min mod, Motorsport whs 22mm rear swaybar, QC shift kit, ToMyx intake, z32 aluminum calipers 13" rotors, nitrous express proton + wet kit. |
#712
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well thats why I am selling my stage III. Like I have said before, it is great on a stock motored SVX. But for my wants and desires for the money I have spent thus far, this is not cutting it like I was told it would
Tom |
#713
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Quote:
It's possible the meshing of the rotors or the geared drives are putting out a sound that the knock sensor circuits interpret as detonation. To work properly it may require a change to a different type of knock sensor. Another possible fix I conjectured was to move the knock sensors to the underside of the block, away from the "noise" You won't get this type of audio interference from a turbo, as it revs way too high to give a signal close in amplitude to detonation sounds, which will run simultaneous to engine revs. There has to be a simple solution to this, it is a fairly simple problem. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#714
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I am fairly confident this is the issue as well. But it is still not going to help me push the envelope power wise. I need to get some time to tinker and with graduation a little over a week away and moving the shop and moving from my apartment I don't have a ton of free time. So once again, I am left to figure out the issues... which is part of my problem
Tom |
#715
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Quote:
By "do away with" I mean take out of use. Leave the circuit in place to keep the ecu happy, but insulate them from the block. Get the standalone one underneath to control timing using a piggyback. If it is done properly [and using Trevor's idea of an audio circuit to identify detonation conditions to ensure that the stand-alone knock sensor is hearing them also] it will safeguard the engine, while allowing for higher boost. I think. Joe
__________________
Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#716
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Even if we corrected the "knock" issue we still will not be making the desired power level. The blower is too small plain and simple...
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Former: 1994 Barcelona Red(x2), 1995 Brilliant Red, 1992 Liquid Silver, 1992 Ebony(x2), 1992 Pearl White (x2) Current: 2017 Ford Raptor 2017 Kawasaki KLR 1995 Guards Red Carrera 1995 Spec-ish Miata - track car 1957 CJ-5 |
#717
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well I know audible knock is no way to tune an engine but I plan on doing something similar. I am want to tie the knock sensor off the intake while still plugged in with an insulated wire attached to a bolt. This wire will lead to the engine to supply the ground I believe it needs to operate properly. This should give me a better idea of whats happening without spending even more on the car just to troubleshoot.
More importantly I bought a kit because I wouldn't have to make things myself. Granted there was a lot of work behind this kit, but to have it on the car for over a year running numerous different test and even blowing up a motor doing it... I would say the "kit" aspect that drew me to this system is gone and I would rather start over and do it myself. Tom |
#718
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Quote:
If so, the theoretical power output with either water/alcohol injection, or excellent charge cooling maxes at 400-420 hp, which I think is plenty. It won't do 440 crank. This is using my famous spreadsheet. The twin screw runs cool, but at high boost [14-15 in this case for these horsepowers] it needs good cooling to deliver all the power. You guys know this is the way to big power with turbos. It is no different with a PD pump. Don't let the fact that it runs cooler than a Roots fool you into the notion that it does not need charge cooling. Because it does. Joe
__________________
Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#719
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Yes but it really should not need cooling at 9psi to avoid knock. The only solution provided was when i had suggested noise from the blower causing the sensors to pull timing.
Tom |
#720
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There is no way to cool the stage 3 either. Methanol is a possibility, but all this work and dumping a lot of meth into my car for what? 400whp? The blower is still way beyond it's efficiency range. If I cannot sell it I will put it on my red car on 9psi with cams and methanol and that car will be a 270-300whp fun car. For my silver I want more than fun. The stage 3 will not get me to that level without dumping insane amounts of methanol into the motor along with a LOT of tuning and writing new software.
PS it is a 1600 blower
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Former: 1994 Barcelona Red(x2), 1995 Brilliant Red, 1992 Liquid Silver, 1992 Ebony(x2), 1992 Pearl White (x2) Current: 2017 Ford Raptor 2017 Kawasaki KLR 1995 Guards Red Carrera 1995 Spec-ish Miata - track car 1957 CJ-5 Last edited by sicksubie; 11-26-2007 at 08:23 PM. |
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