buying an SVX. What to look for? REPLY ASAP!!

I am looking at a 92' SVX AWD with 175k on the clock. Owner says it runs shifts and drives fine, has a few minor cosmetic issues.

I am going to look at this in a few hours (7-8pm PST), how do I tell if the tranny overheating/death problem has been resolved (ie recall kit) and what can I do to prevent the typical SVX failures (warped rotors, dead tranny) from happening?
I think I can get a transmission cooler installed, and that should help significantly but I am not sure what else to do.

Your help is greatly appreciated and time is of the essence as I am going to see this car later today.

Thanks,
Nick + Kristie

[Earthworm]

Welcome to the site!

You will find the following article helpful:

Go to the SVXipedia on http://svx-iw.com/
->General Information
-->What to Look For in a Used SVX

Perfect, that's EXACTLY what I needed.
If the ATF does not smell burnt and the brakes behave normally, I will probably buy this car, despite a few minor dents and scrapes it still looks okay.
Is 175k too high of mileage for it to be reliable? The dude only wants 1k out of it and I need a daily driver. I hear that the 3.3 H6 is quite durable and has excellent longevity.

Will installing a HEAVY DUTY ATF cooler save the tranny from being killed?

Sorry for all the questions, I just don't want to buy another piece of junk.

I'll check back with you guys later and let you know how it went, too.

-Nick

[Earthworm]

Installing an ATF cooler will prolong the inevitable. The tranny will fail, the cooler will just make it last longer.

The engine will last forever (except for gaskets/seals)

I need it to last at least 6 months.

[ensteele]

Welcome to the site. You can find all of that and more in the "How-To Documents" link in the upper right corner of this page.

Okay, the car ran and drove fine. The rotors looked good. The ATF did not smell burnt and was its proper pink hue. The electricals all worked properly, except the CD player. Not a problem since the tape deck works and that's what I need for my 'pod. The transmission shifted crisply and firmly. It ran quite good for a car with 175k and the interior was in fantastic shape given the mileage. It rode quite comfortably. No sign of wheel bearing vibrations or noise.

Here's the bad:
The driver's side corner lamp is busted, and the front bumper is pushed in slightly.
Both headlights, however, are totally functional and intact.
There is a sound like a loose nut that comes from INSIDE the rear passenger side shock tower assembly. The gas gauge does not work most of the time, but does occasionally, and the catalytic converter has a hole in it and needs to be replaced. This car needs to pass california smog, or I need to find a crooked mechanic who'll pass it for me.

It is an AWD model for sure, the rear diff is there.
HOWEVER, there is a RED light on, on the dash that says FWD. Apparently it's in FWD ONLY mode?
It appears that it happens when you remove a 10a fuse? I want to put it back so the SVX has AWD again.
What style of fuse is it, and where does the fuse go? I will not buy the car tomorrow if it's going to be FWD only, I refuse to have a FWD-only subaru. My friend with the 'rex will NEVER let me live it down.

Anyways, if replacing the fuse reinstates the AWD system, I will join the ranks of SVX owners tomorrow.

[Earthworm]

You have it backwards. AWD works with the fuse removed.

I have a brand new front driver's side turn signal assembly for you if you do end up purchasing.

[It's Just Eric]

And the bumper being pushed in can probly be fixed with a heat gun and / or a hammer, depending on if its just the cover or the actual support thats pushed in

..and yeah, having a fwd suby makes no sence. Sucks when people say "Is that rear wheel drive" and you HAVE to say "...no...Front wheel" as you hang your head between your shoulders and walk away defeated, as opposed to overcoming curiosities with an unexpected "Actually *****, its all wheel drive"


or at least thats what happens to me.....