Cam seals

[simboglide]

Developed and oil leak that appears to be coming from near the lower radiator aluminum neck.After reading articles on possible causes, I believe it may be the cam seals.I found the "How to", but i have three questions.....

(1) How did you relieve tension from the belt to remove it?

(2) What did you use to remove and re-install cam and crank seals?

(3) Did you silicone in the new seals and did you install them dry or oil the
sealing lips?

Thanks in advance !!

[simboglide]

One other thing,, are the seals available aftermarket or OEM? and which would you suggest?

[SoCal LS-L]

Undo the bolts on the tensioner to allow it to slide backwards, then you can remove the belt.

It may be helpful to download the service manual provided below in my signature.

You can use a pick to remove the seals, just be careful.

Im not sure specifically about the SVX seals, but usually a thin coat of oil will ease the install, no silicone is normally needed.

Go to http://www.subarugenuineparts.com to get the seals, I have used them for other gaskets and seals and the quality is OEM, prices are good.

[simboglide]

So,,no real need to silicone outer metal edge,, just oil the lip a bit so it easily slide over shaft?

[simboglide]

Hmmm.. a little confused,, manual says to make sure all the gears are timed before i take off the belt, isn't the engine already timed and since the crank and camshafts can't rotate. wouldn't i only need to make sure the belt timing marks are aligned? Or do i hand crank the engine around so all the marks line up?

[siceclipse]

use a 1/2" breaker bar to turn the crank around until all the timing marks are ligned up, THEN remove the tensioner and belt.

[simboglide]

sounds good,,, now,, what's the secret to taking off crank pully/ harmonic balancer w/o rotating the engine?

[simboglide]

I assume a standard balancer puller from Autozone will work just fine.

[simboglide]

Well they have a puller.. nothing to secure the pulley while i turn the bolt.
UPDATE.....
have both end covers off, no oil in the bottom of them and belt is dry.hmmmmmm

[trophy956]

hi use OEM cam and crank seals ,the brown rubber seals are better against hardening and leaking ,pry the seals outward so you dont score the cam
always rotate the engine from the crank to align the marks ,there are special tools for loosening the crank shaft bolt but it can be done by holding the torque converter ,loosening the cam shaft bolts are little more work ,better with a strap wrench,anotther thing the crank shaft pulley doesnt always just fall off ,spraying a good rust inhibitor in the hole and hitting down on it with a block of wood will loosen it ,crank shaft torque is 108 ftlbs camsprocket 80 to 94 ftlbs ,dont for get intake plugs while you are in there
charlie

[SoCal LS-L]

You DO NOT have to align the marks before removing the belt, its non interference and you simply have to align all 3 timing marks when you INSTALL the belt.

To remove the bolt securing the crank pulley, use the appropriate sized socket connected to a 1/2" breaker bar. Let the end of the bar rest on the chassis on the DRIVER side, and crank the engine. This will break the bolt loose as the engine spins clockwise (looking from the front).

[simboglide]

http://i1013.photobucket.com/albums/...de/oilleak.jpg

[simboglide]

crank pullEy off..looked inside hole....DRY...GRRRR , now i'm starting to think maybe the head gasket...the mounting to the block is in the area.

[trophy956]

leftside of the oil pump or rist pin access plug

[simboglide]

any pictures or diagrams where pump and pin may be located?