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  #16  
Old 07-05-2009, 11:16 AM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Quote:
Originally Posted by wawazat?? View Post
I'm headed in this direction as well with my '92. 147k miles and fully depreciated. It is now equipped/modified as follows:
-'02 WRX 5 speed with Exedy clutch and Kartboy short shifter
-Koni/GC suspension
-Recaro seats and harnesses
-gutted interior from B-pillar back
-removed rear spoiler
-removed rear wiper
-numerous wheel and tire combinations

I know, I know...don't gut it, it's a poor performance car candidate, it's a GT car...it's my car, it costs me virtualy nothing to own and I've got a ton of spare parts. I'll enjoy it as I prefer and have all the parts to re-assemble it when/if I need to. In the meantime I'll have some fun when I can with it

Future cheap speed modifications pending up-turn in the Detroit automotive sector whcih is what my business supports. That'll happen
Fully depreciated I hear the same things too, but like you..I want a more enjoyable SVX on the track.

Good luck with your 02 wrx tranny...for some reason (shifting too fast according to the instructor) 4th gear would grind during the session and on the way home...it has not done it since though.

I have a rubber grommet where the wiper used to be but i dont like the idea of someone popping it out for fun...what else can I put there?
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Rebuilt P/S pump info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50918

If your car wont start info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ighlight=click
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  #17  
Old 07-06-2009, 05:45 AM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Quote:
...for some reason (shifting too fast according to the instructor) 4th gear would grind during the session and on the way home...it has not done it since though.
Mine crunches a little bit on the 3-4 upshift also, only on the track, probably over 7000rpm.
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94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

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92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #18  
Old 07-08-2009, 03:00 AM
Johnybeas Johnybeas is offline
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

I have the same issue.... 3-4th when in higher RPM's it's not as smooth of a shift as the other gear changes. I've tried double clutching and that helps a bit but it's still not perfect
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  #19  
Old 07-28-2009, 03:49 AM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Are you going to fit a rear spoiler of some sort? to increase grip on the rear?
Or is there no point in doing that?
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1992 NZDM SVX Maroonish Red/Black ( 1st car ive owned with an cd player ) Has been retired
1989 Vortex 6 Maroon
1983 RX Silver Grey
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Last edited by subbieatnz; 07-28-2009 at 03:52 AM.
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  #20  
Old 07-28-2009, 05:12 AM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Quote:
Originally Posted by subbieatnz View Post
Are you going to fit a rear spoiler of some sort? to increase grip on the rear?
Or is there no point in doing that?
I have never driven a race prepared SVX at speeds like that. But in my experience with a loaded car, oversteer due to a lack of rear tire grip is not the case especially with a good suspension system. Tail braking is really the only way you can lose yourself aside from pushing too hard through a turn. The car is very stable at higher speeds, I feel a spoiler would cause more drag than what it is worth in stabilizng the already stable rear end. BUT i could be dead wrong with a prepared car and how it effects the weight ratio from front to rear

Tom
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  #21  
Old 07-28-2009, 03:12 PM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

I agree with Tom. Very few if any SVX's will have enough power to traverse sweeping corners at speeds high enough to benefit from a rear spoiler. Our front weight bias means that the SVX has very good bite under braking and thus we also wouldn't get that much increased braking grip due to downforce. The fastest I have gotten my SVX on the track is slightly north of 125 on the Pocono single infield course. At the end of the straight, you have to pull it down to about 80 or so to make the turn. A wing would be pretty ineffective for that cornering.
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95 LS-i Red, 31,xxx; bone stock for now; Daily Driver

94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #22  
Old 09-27-2009, 09:33 PM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Definitely keeping an eye on this thread! any new updates?
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  #23  
Old 09-27-2009, 09:53 PM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

I'll try and answer some of the questions more clearly. I should add, I have no idea what your "street legal" requirements are so make the assumption that everything I suggest renders it illegal, unless you can work out otherwise.
  • Dry ice - yep, dead easy, photos are in the rally car thread
  • Seats - I used Sparco Evo II seats. They mount using side mounts, and have a strip welded to the floor for them to bolt to. Plenty strong enough.
  • Harnesses use the original seat belt mounting points on the floor (either side of the seat) and loop around the roll cage at the back
  • Airbags - everything gone (wiring, sensors, bags ECU etc). More dangerous with them if you have seats and harnesses. Helpfully, any wiring to do with the airbags is wrapped in bright yellow tape, so it was very easy to find and remove
  • Climate AC - I only use mine for demisting the screen. So it's locked on heat setting (when you pull the heaterbox apart you'll see what I mean). All the solenoids, wiring, ECU etc are gone. One switch remains to turn the blower on and off.
  • ABS - all gone...wiring, sensors, modules ECU etc. Not needed.
  • roll cages are custom sized. None of the shelf are avaialble, and I would warn against trying to fabricate one based on measurements.
  • Weight reduction - ongoing. Bumpers have 3 parts, outside plastic skin, foam padding and massive steel structure. I removed the foam, reduced the steel structure (by cutting with an angle grinder) and reduced the weight a lot. I've also pulled out the second firewall (there's twofor NVH). Once the car is stripped, and you realise its intended purpose, you'll be surprised what you don't need. Glass, electric glass winders, sunroof mechanisms, pointless bracketry
  • Suspension - see the rally car thread for the spring rates. Yours will be different if it's for track. Springs will be a lot stiffer, valving a lot firmer. Strut tops, I used generic solid ones and customised to fit.
  • Stock brakes with high quality pads are fine. Anything more complicates it.
  • Engine oil cooler - can get sandwich plates to go between the filter and the block. WRX's run a water cooled oil cooler that will also fit.
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  #24  
Old 09-27-2009, 11:13 PM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dynomatt View Post
[*]Climate AC - I only use mine for demisting the screen. So it's locked on heat setting (when you pull the heaterbox apart you'll see what I mean). All the solenoids, wiring, ECU etc are gone. One switch remains to turn the [/LIST]
This is one of the things im up to doing.
How did you go about having the heater setting locked on?

Thanks
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1989 Vortex 6 Maroon
1983 RX Silver Grey
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  #25  
Old 09-28-2009, 04:31 AM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

when you pull the heater box out, you'll notice that it has a few solenoids that drive a few flaps within the box. It's basically one flap for temperature (ie, more heater core exposed makes it hotter, more heater core blocked makes it colder) and then directing air to the face, feet and windscreen. In my case, I removed all the solenoids, and locked them into the "full heat" and "windscreen demist" setting...but then threw away the ecu and controlling rubbish. I locked them by screwing metal screws through the plastic to hold the flap in place...pretty high tech.

I'm not sure I have any photos sorry.

Matt
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  #26  
Old 09-28-2009, 04:44 AM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Quote:
Originally Posted by redlinedeath View Post
Definitely keeping an eye on this thread! any new updates?
its more of an informative thread at this point. The car I was going to use I decided to save its life...its at the body shop now getting an all black paint job and I am re sealing the enginia and mating it to an 02 wrx trans.

More than likely ill find another car in worse shape than this one was...then make another attempt..I think there are a lot of useful tips in this thread and will be applying most of them to my gold car.
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Rebuilt P/S pump info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50918

If your car wont start info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ighlight=click
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  #27  
Old 09-28-2009, 05:03 AM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Quote:
Originally Posted by SomethingElse View Post
...power seatbelts are out. any serious track car needs racing seats/ racing harness. The ones on the gravel car thread look great! but I didnt see any info on type of seat or installation how to.

...install roll cage.
Schroth harnesses are DOT legal, but may not be enough for what you're looking to do.

Either way, I would not be alone in advising against installing a roll cage unless you're going to perpetually be wearing a helmet, or risk bashing your brains out if in an accident.
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  #28  
Old 09-28-2009, 07:50 PM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Quote:
Originally Posted by dynomatt View Post
when you pull the heater box out, you'll notice that it has a few solenoids that drive a few flaps within the box. It's basically one flap for temperature (ie, more heater core exposed makes it hotter, more heater core blocked makes it colder) and then directing air to the face, feet and windscreen. In my case, I removed all the solenoids, and locked them into the "full heat" and "windscreen demist" setting...but then threw away the ecu and controlling rubbish. I locked them by screwing metal screws through the plastic to hold the flap in place...pretty high tech.

I'm not sure I have any photos sorry.

Matt
I did think of using super screws lol... Did think it was a little bit crude tho
I mite actually do that. It be easy thing to do
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1992 NZDM SVX Maroonish Red/Black ( 1st car ive owned with an cd player ) Has been retired
1989 Vortex 6 Maroon
1983 RX Silver Grey
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  #29  
Old 10-30-2009, 07:02 PM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

heater assembly:

use an assembly from a different vehicle!
scout around salvage yards and see what might work!

i think the best candidate would be from early 70's volvo 142/144
rather hard to find perhaps, but MINISCULE in size/weight!!!!

as for harnesses/belts...
YES use proper competition harnesses when on track, but DON'T use them on the street!!
most arent DOT approved and should u have an incident, the insurance co. can say your injuries were caused by the belts and deny coverage!!

instead, install stock subaru belts! they are cheap at a salvage yard and BOLT RIGHT INTO an svx!!

the one caveat is that depending on which model/year belts you install, the reel assembly may need to be rather vertically oriented (90 deg to the ground)
there is a check-ball inside that will lock the belt (or NOT lock the belt) when u least want it to!!

my belts are out of a 1990 legacy wagon and work fine, mine have the check-ball so i had to do a bit of neanderthal engineering to the area where it bolts in so that it stands vertically...

total weight is probably 3 -4 pounds/belt assembly...small price for comfort, convenience and legality.

oh yes, they "click" properly into the stock svx buckle too !!




i DO have a question though...

i just yanked the a/c out of my car...

if a person "split" the condenser, could you not use 1/2 of it for an oil cooler and the other 1/2 for a trans cooler?(4eat trans of course...)

it saves the weight of adding cooler(s) and its right out front in the air-flow...

seems like a clever idea....but am i missing something?

obviously, the condenser would have to be properly cleaned/flushed out first...

but can it stand the pressures involved...?

just what psi does an a/c condenser face in normal use anyway....?

i figure if a trans cooler's line can be rubber with HOSE CLAMPS...then the line pressure is moderate at best...

but what about engine oil?...if a sandwich plate is used at the oil filter, does that mean a cooler is facing full oil pressure?

just wondering...sorry for rambling on....
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  #30  
Old 10-31-2009, 12:30 AM
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Re: To Build A Track Car...

Quote:
Originally Posted by rallyingrob View Post

obviously, the condenser would have to be properly cleaned/flushed out first...

but can it stand the pressures involved...?

just what psi does an a/c condenser face in normal use anyway....?
typically I see a/c systems run around 150 psi on the high side under load. I don't see why you couldn't run oil through it...its made for gas though and your trying to force a liquid through it....may run in to some complications.
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Rebuilt P/S pump info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50918

If your car wont start info... http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...ighlight=click
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