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  #16  
Old 11-19-2003, 04:36 PM
6evil9
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from PCV valve to inlet manifold

is not it PCV screwed into the manifold?

refer to link i gave before, do u mean hose (6)?

and refer to : http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...ategory=050-A2

PCV, (2) is screwed into manifold and hose (6) on link few posts before goes to PCV... well im missing hose 6, it cracked badly so i removed it ...

Thx for replying that fast and frequent
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  #17  
Old 11-19-2003, 05:07 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by 6evil9
from PCV valve to inlet manifold

is not it PCV screwed into the manifold?

refer to link i gave before, do u mean hose (6)?

and refer to : http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...ategory=050-A2

PCV, (2) is screwed into manifold and hose (6) on link few posts before goes to PCV... well im missing hose 6, it cracked badly so i removed it ...

Thx for replying that fast and frequent
No the PCV valve is screwed into the crankcase. Hose 6 connects it to the inlet manifold.

Yes hose 6 is the one that has the vacuum applied to it. A leak in this hose will cause idle problems.

Harvey.

Sorry a bit more hoses 1,3,7, are not vacuum hoses.
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Last edited by oab_au; 11-19-2003 at 05:09 PM.
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  #18  
Old 11-20-2003, 04:39 AM
6evil9
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hmmmm lols its like all i understood but back to the first my post:
air cant go through pcv valve into where its screwed in! so hence no air can possible come out from crankcase through PCV valve

thats what i was confused about origionally

lols back to the beginning...

where the plastic black connector is connected to then? (with hoses attached to it? - back to first picture)

hey im not dumb lols

the operation as whole thing is clear, but particular technical implementation is still not understood properly

sorry Harvey

P.S. hose (6) connects PCV to the black plastic connector with hose going to manifold, right?
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  #19  
Old 11-20-2003, 06:53 AM
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Jamsvx Jamsvx is offline
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I am reading these threads with great interest and trying to expand my knowledge too!

That tsb link mentioned that the PCV valve should be changed every 12 months or 10,000miles - is this correct?

Thanks in advance

James
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  #20  
Old 11-20-2003, 10:43 AM
Clydesvx Clydesvx is offline
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If your dipstick is blowing out of the tube, and you have over 150,000 miles or so on the car, try what fixed the same problem on mine. Go to SUBARU and pay 1.97 for the "O" ring that goes on the bottom of the yellow plastic on the top of the dipstick. A different "O" ring fixes the similar problem that occurs when you start blowing Diff fluid out of the Diff dipstick tube.
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  #21  
Old 11-20-2003, 05:32 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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PCV operation.

Quote:
Originally posted by 6evil9
hmmmm lols its like all i understood but back to the first my post:
air cant go through pcv valve into where its screwed in! so hence no air can possible come out from crankcase through PCV valve

thats what i was confused about origionally

lols back to the beginning...

where the plastic black connector is connected to then? (with hoses attached to it? - back to first picture)

hey im not dumb lols

the operation as whole thing is clear, but particular technical implementation is still not understood properly

sorry Harvey

P.S. hose (6) connects PCV to the black plastic connector with hose going to manifold, right?
OK mate no trouble, I think we need to define the names of the components. "black plastic connector", I reckon that you mean the unit that is screwed into the engine block on the air box side of the throttle body with hoses 3 and 6 connected to it, and not the black plastic pipe "air delivery pipe", that runs from the air box to the throttle body.

This "black plastic connector" is screwed into a compartment built into the back of the crankcase where there is a baffle to remove the oil from the fumes. The fumes are drawn up out of the engine through this connector, mixed with air from the air delivery pipe through hose 3 and up to the PCV valve through hose 6.

When the manifold vacuum is high, as when idling. The vacuum pulls the plunger in the PCV right back to allow a metered amount of air to flow from the air delivery pipe, through hoses 1 and 7, into the cam covers, on the sides of the engine. It then goes to the back of the crankcase, where the oil is removed, up through the "black plastic connector" where it is mixed with some air from hose 3, along hose 6 to the PCV valve into the manifold to be burnt.

When the manifold vacuum is less, as when cruising on part throttle, the plunger in the PCV valve is pulled back to a middle position, as the spring overcomes the lower vacuum to open the valve wider to consume more fumes.

When the throttle is wide open and the manifold vacuum is almost zero the spring in the PCV valve closes the valve. As the ECU goes into open loop and we don't want an air leaking in to lean the mixture. In this case the fumes flow backwards from the crankcase through the cam covers up hoses 1 and 7 to the air delivery pipe, where it connect to the throttle body. There is a passage built into the bottom of the box section, that connects these pipes to a small elbow pipe that goes up to the air delivery pipe. Then it flows through the throttle bodies into the engine to be burnt.

The best way to tell if the system is working ok is to warm the engine, remove the oil filler cap while the engine is idling, place the palm of your hand over the filler pipe for a few seconds. If you feel the vacuum pulling on your hand, the venting is blocked. This is most likely at the "black plastic connector" or where the two pipes 1and 7 from the cam covers go into the air delivery pipe. Then pull the hose 6 that goes to the PCV valve off the "black plastic connector" put your finger over the end, you should feel the vacuum pulling, if not then the PCV valve is blocked.


How is this version. Make sense to you. If not just ask.

Harvey.
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  #22  
Old 11-20-2003, 05:42 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Clydesvx
If your dipstick is blowing out of the tube, and you have over 150,000 miles or so on the car, try what fixed the same problem on mine. Go to SUBARU and pay 1.97 for the "O" ring that goes on the bottom of the yellow plastic on the top of the dipstick. A different "O" ring fixes the similar problem that occurs when you start blowing Diff fluid out of the Diff dipstick tube.
If the dip stick is blowing up out of the tube. This is a clear sign that the crankcase venting is blocked. There should be no positive pressure in the crankcase to blow the dipstick up. This is also a cause of oil leaking out seals and gaskets. Because of the build up of crankcase pressure.

Harvey.
Ps if the o ring is faulty then by all means replace it.
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Tell it like it is!

95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels.
97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls.
04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls.
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  #23  
Old 11-20-2003, 10:09 PM
6evil9
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what O-ring? where?
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2003, 03:22 AM
Clydesvx Clydesvx is offline
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Pull out the dipstick. Look at the yellow portion. There is a small O ring just before the metal part of the dipstick. If you don't see it, there should be an indentation where one belongs.

Changing the O ring fixed my problem. I expect that if I was having other problems the dipstick would still be blowing out.

The same goes for the differential dipstick. Smaller dipstick but it too has a small O ring just before the metal stick.
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  #25  
Old 11-21-2003, 04:51 AM
6evil9
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oh those one

i thin i got one but well i dont care bout it, it does not change perfomance of the car
so why bother

anyways thx

i guess case is closed now

Thank you guys

now u can try answer my other question about tie rod
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