Car is dead! Please help

[blue thunder]

My car was driving fine yesterday although the ABS light came on and stayed on while driving. I have had incidents where the steering wheel would start shaking after driving a few miles. During the heat of the day. When driving home late at night when its cooler never any shaking. Now today the car will not come out of Park and no lights come on when I turn the key all the way over. My battery is like two months old. Any help with these symptoms would be appreciated. I'm not sure what to do next. Thanks.


Mike

[SVXdc]

Your shift lock solenoid is not being activated -- that's keeping you from shifting out of park. That plus not seeing any lights when you turn the key makes it sound like you have a dead battery.

Is anything electrical still working?

Either you got a bad battery, or something in the car drained it.

Did you check the water levels in the battery?

[blue thunder]

I just checked the voltage and I'm getting nothing. I can't find anything that I left on to drain battery. If battery is completely dead can the shifter still be moved out of park? I'm riding my bike to get a battery charger assuming my battery is still good. Oh yeah I'll check the water level if possible. I have never had the shifter stuck in park in over seven in a half years owning this car. Thanks for the quick reply.

Mike

[Nomake Wan]

The button in front of the shifter there will release the shifter in the event that the shift lock solenoid fails or you lose electrical power. Hold it down and move the lever out of park.

At least, that's it on the 92. Is it different on the newer ones? Maybe there's a cover you have to remove and push the release with a flathead screwdriver...?

[SVXdc]

Only 92-93 have the exposed release button. 94-97 require a bit more effort.

Originally Posted by blue thunder

If battery is completely dead can the shifter still be moved out of park?

Yes. If you have your owners' manual, the procedure is detailed there. Let us know if you don't have it.

Basically, you pop open the little access plug, remove a screw, and gently press a screwdriver into the hole. But be careful -- if you jam the screwdriver too far down you will tear up the windings on the solenoid. Don't ask me how I know this...

To release the lock, you need to insert your screwdriver into the hole only about 1/2" below the sliding metal piece. The lock release mechanism is a metal lever just below the hole. It's possible for a small screwdriver to go past the lever to the side, so it helps to angle the tip of the screwdriver just a little towards the right (and the handle towards the left). When the tip contacts the release lever, you should feel a slight springy resistance. Push it down just a little, then you'll be able to push the thumb button on the gearshift lever. While still holding the thumb button, remove the screwdriver, then move the gearshift down to 1st.


(click for larger image)

Hopefully you'll be able to recharge your battery so you won't need to mess with the shift lock.

[blue thunder]

Thanks guys. I have had issues over the years with the shifter getting temporarily stuck in park and me wrestling with it to get it out when the light turns green. I did have my car towed once and the release button had to be used. So loss of battery will cause it to stick as well. I'm getting a charger now. If my battery is no good I have a receipt I'll use tommorrow. Thanks again.

Mike

[d4d330]

is how I would describe our '92 when the temps cause the radiator fans to come on. One fan is bent so much that you can feel it though out the car including (or mostly) though the steering wheel. Since you mention it seems to happen on warmer days, I'd pop the hood next time it happened and unplug the fans briefly to see if that was it.
We are waiting for ebay seller to send us replacements now...
Terry

[blue thunder]

I started charging battery in car and the ABS box in car started making a constant humming noise. My battery showed it was charged. Almost 100% on charger. What do I do now. ABS is shutting car completely down.

Mike

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by blue thunder

I started charging battery in car and the ABS box in car started making a constant humming noise. My battery showed it was charged. Almost 100% on charger. What do I do now. ABS is shutting car completely down.

Mike

Your explanation is very brief. Is the ABS humming only when the charger is connected? If so the charger could have faulty rectifiers and be delivering alternating current, at I believe in your case 60 CPS.

[Cho]

Hey I had that same problem once Last winter. The best way to get the abs to stop pissing u off is charge the battery. Then turn it to on position but dont actually start it. Then turn it off. Open the hood and find the ABS box. It should say abs in white letter u cant miss it. unscrew the screw, take off the cover and remove the abs chip. Go back to the car start it for about 3 seconds or so and shut it off. Now go back and put the chip back in and start the car. Turn off the car a few seconds later. The abs problem should have gone away.

This happened in my 95 L and it made me mad because it was -5 degrees outside and I had to mess with it. Pain in the !$#.

[blue thunder]

Cho thanks for that info. Thats what I have a 95 L. I recharged the battery earlier today and removed the ABS fuse to stop whatever was making noise in the ABS box and I think draining my battery. I was going to drop it at a nearby shop tonight so they could look at it but the car drove fine with no apparent problems. I will follow what you said tommorrow with the chip. Thanks.

Mike

[Trevor]

Mike, you are now running two threads on the same problem. This confuses the issue and is frustrating when one has spent a great deal of time trying to assist you. The threads are now one hell of a tangle.

In your other thread I have included much detail and there is a question which you have not answered i.e. Quote ----

*Mike ---- N.B.
It would be interesting to learn as to which fuse, when removed, causes the ABS unit noise to cease. This information would allow the investigative process to be advanced somewhat. -----


With the fuse identity known this, will enable me to advise as whether ABS control circuitry, which includes the IC is faulty, or alternatively the motor circuit. As explained, each is independently fused and therefore can be separately isolated.

I now learn from this thread, that apparently your battery is no longer discharging, after removal of an ABS fuse. If the removed fuse is SBF-7 rated at 30 amps, this will indicate a suspect motor circuit.

If you remove the ABS enclosure cover, replace the fuse and find out where the noise is coming from. If it is the hydraulic motor, remove control fuse No 19 and see if it stops. If it does not do so, this would indicate that the motor relay is possibly stuck closed and this relay should be checked.

If it turns out that the motor relay is buzzing, which I think is unlikely, remove fuse 19 and see if it stops.

Only after these prior tests, as Cho has suggested, remove the IC.
N.B. and only while fuse 19 is out to isolate what is a permanently energised circuit. The ignition switch will not do so.
Replace the IC, then fuse 19 and report back on the results.

This is all very tedious, but as I understand it money is tight and you will be saving heaps. Print this out so that you have notes on hand.