Getting the big old bolt loose...

[kwren]

on the crank pulley. Got my car back from the dealer today after 6 weeks of diagnosis and started going into the timing belt stuff. Got to the crank pulley and won't budge. I have removed it a dozen times in the last 3 years and never a problem. My big break over bar and the heavy mauled easily does the trick. I worked on it over an hour tonight and even resorted to a "bigger hammer". A big sledge hammer even, and it is way too tight, won't budge. Didn't think they went into that area, but in 6 weeks a lot of stuff could have happened.

Anyway, I probably have to wedge the fly wheel with something and need to know the best way to do that without damaging the flywheel.

Anyone have a better idea please respond.

All help appreciated.

Keith

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by kwren

on the crank pulley. Got my car back from the dealer today after 6 weeks of diagnosis and started going into the timing belt stuff. Got to the crank pulley and won't budge. I have removed it a dozen times in the last 3 years and never a problem. My big break over bar and the heavy mauled easily does the trick. I worked on it over an hour tonight and even resorted to a "bigger hammer". A big sledge hammer even, and it is way too tight, won't budge. Didn't think they went into that area, but in 6 weeks a lot of stuff could have happened.

Anyway, I probably have to wedge the fly wheel with something and need to know the best way to do that without damaging the flywheel.

Anyone have a better idea please respond.

All help appreciated.

Keith

Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.

...............

I almost did it but I would still like a second opinion. No offense intended.

Could I maybe have a third opinion as well.

I am really a big chicken.

[YourConfused]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.

good idea, w/ good success rate, but sometimes it may result in teeth missing from the flex plate, or in our case the torque converter. I have seen it before.

Other idea would be to remove a inspection plug on the block/bell housing and stuff in a screwdriver, breaker bar, whatever...
The idea is to stop the flywheel from turning and then use a breaker bar on the crank bolt to loosen it. The slower introduction of stress on a small area would lessen the possibility of breaking a tooth. I have done it this way and never had a single issue ever. Using the starter is easier though. If you do do the starter method just make sure to disable the car in some way, like un plugging the ignition igniter on the firewall or removing the fuel pump fuse or something.

[kwren]

I like to have options and will mull over them!
Thanks again.
Keith

[YourConfused]

Originally Posted by kwren

I like to have options and will mull over them!
Thanks again.
Keith

Are you thinking that they messed something up? How much did weeks at the dealer cost you anyway?

[kwren]

Originally Posted by YourConfused

Are you thinking that they messed something up? How much did weeks at the dealer cost you anyway?

they finally decided on a blown head gasket. To replace for $2200.00

I am checking on a belt skip notch thing first and go from there.

I'm Confused, but I think the diagnosis of blown head gasket after 6 weeks in the new Subaru loaner was their way of saying goodbye!

I will get it worked out but the big old bolt has been a project. I want to make sure the timing is ok before I go into it farther.

I appreciate it!
Keith

[YourConfused]

Originally Posted by kwren

A word of caution... The plan "B" method of Getting the big old bolt loose... with the starter will not work with the negative battery terminal disconnected

Keith.

Originally Posted by YourConfused

good idea, w/ good success rate, but sometimes it may result in teeth missing from the flex plate, or in our case the torque converter. I have seen it before.

Other idea would be to remove a inspection plug on the block/bell housing and stuff in a screwdriver, breaker bar, whatever...
The idea is to stop the flywheel from turning and then use a breaker bar on the crank bolt to loosen it. The slower introduction of stress on a small area would lessen the possibility of breaking a tooth. I have done it this way and never had a single issue ever. Using the starter is easier though. If you do do the starter method just make sure to disable the car in some way, like un plugging the ignition igniter on the firewall or removing the fuel pump fuse or something.

plan "B" method is never a good idea. just my thoughts on this.

[Landshark]

when i did mine, i used the starter method with a breaker bar duct taped to the alternator. duct tape stability = no flying tools FTW!



i don't think i'd do it that way again, though.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by Landshark

when i did mine, i used the starter method with a breaker bar duct taped to the alternator. duct tape stability = no flying tools FTW!



i don't think i'd do it that way again, though.

Maybe the floor jack handle and duct tape! What a great combination. Keith

[huck369]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.

This is the method I always use, simple and easy.....

[Suby Fan]

there are crank pulley holding tools you can buy... i have a vice grips with a chain attached to it

[Hocrest]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Hi Keith, I think the accepted way is a socket on a long breaker bar, set against the chassis rail, and hit the starter.

Harvey.

+1

I rest it against the ground under the battery. I mean ground as in pavement, dirt, driveway, etc. And not the battery grounding point...

[kwren]

...............

[lhopp77]

I just bought that crank pulley tool that was for sale on Ebay. I suspect it will pay for itself many times over in actual cost savings and/or time.

I would also check the timing belt jump problem unless you are getting water in your oil or oil in your water. Both of course sure signs of head gasket failure.

Are you losing any coolant? You can of course have a blown head gasket without noticable oil/coolant problems but you normally do have the problems.

Lee