electrical problems continued

[Iceman59718]

So, my harmonic balancer finally arrived and I've got her back on the road. Now I'm back to the electrical problems I was battling before. In doing some more searching I found someone from a few years back that had the exact same problem: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...oor+lock+stuck
Sadly, he decided to part the car out rather than fix the problem. I love this car and parting it out is not an option so I'm hoping for some help. I've read several posts on electrical problems, but I feel this must be a central short or something as I'm having the EXACT same problems that "nota5speed" was. Here is my original post: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=32647 Anyway, I realize that I've got some serious electrical gremlins that will likely be difficult to find, but never-the-less any help my fellow SVXers can offer would be greatly appreciated. Suggestions, wiring schematics, things to put the voltmeter on first, etc. I am determined to fix this problem without it putting me in the poor house. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Cheers,

-Dave

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Iceman59718

So, my harmonic balancer finally arrived and I've got her back on the road. Now I'm back to the electrical problems I was battling before. In doing some more searching I found someone from a few years back that had the exact same problem: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...oor+lock+stuck
Sadly, he decided to part the car out rather than fix the problem. I love this car and parting it out is not an option so I'm hoping for some help. I've read several posts on electrical problems, but I feel this must be a central short or something as I'm having the EXACT same problems that "nota5speed" was. Here is my original post: http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=32647 Anyway, I realize that I've got some serious electrical gremlins that will likely be difficult to find, but never-the-less any help my fellow SVXers can offer would be greatly appreciated. Suggestions, wiring schematics, things to put the voltmeter on first, etc. I am determined to fix this problem without it putting me in the poor house. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Cheers,

-Dave

With respect Dave,

You have read the above threads which shows how much time has been put towards trying to assist and you are now asking that all should start again from scratch. You must start this thread again advising EXACLY what is NOW at fault and EXACLTY what you have so far investigated, repaired or altered.

You should appreciate that from the view of those trying to assist the picture has become confused beyond reason. Be sure help is on hand but you must be of help yourself.

[Ken92SVX]

Iceman,
I just bought a 92 SVX on Sunday. It had some electrical problems also.(dash lights on dimly, blinkers did not work, or the radio)The guy who was selling it did not want to put any money in to it so he left it as is. He said it needed an alternator, so I figured I would get it home and check it out for grounding, etc, before I got one. The battery terminals were corroded pretty bad so I cleaned them up. I took the from the negative lead of the battery that was loose. I cleaned it up, tighten it and put the battery back on and everything then worked great to my suprise. I was hoping it was a bad/loose ground and I got lucky. Check your negative terminal under the battery, maybe that may be your problem too.
Ken

[Iceman59718]

Ok, so Trevor made a good point. Instead of having anyone who may be able to help bounce all around to read previous posts I will update the current situation of the SVX. There was some sort of short circuit that caused my fusible link to blow as well as the following fuses: clock fuse and RH fan relay in the engine fuseblock and the following fuses in the kick panel fuseblock: EGI unit/AT unit, Cruise/ABS, Meter/SRS lamp, and Illumi. I have replaced all fuses with the proper replacements, and I made another fusible link with fusible link wire I bought at the auto parts store. The battery has been checked and is good. I have a new alternator and all looks good with the basics of the charging system (14.55 volts measured at the battery with the car running). I'm still having the following issues: blinkers and hazard lights will come on but not blink, passenger side door lock actuator stuck in locked position and I can hear the relay trip behind the passenger side dash when I try to use the locks from the driver's side, the air bag and ABS lights are on the dash, and I have no cruise control because it blows the fuse whenever I try to replace it. I found it interesting that I am getting 14 volts from the empty cruise control fuse socket with the car on. I've looked at my grounds and have done some other basic checking, but have refrained from tearing into the wiring system too much. I have a Suby Chiltons manual (little use I know). Do you guys think I should break down and get the 1 year Alldata membership so I can see some wiring schematics? Anyway, I hope to look into this further this weekend, but with 2 jobs and a girlfriends we'll see what time alots. Oh well, at least she's back on the road.

Cheers,

-Dave

[Trevor]

Thanks Dave,

***** One hell of a mess ---must be tackled logically ------

Ok, so Trevor made a good point. Instead of having anyone who may be able to help bounce all around to read previous posts I will update the current situation of the SVX. There was some sort of short circuit that caused my fusible link to blow

***** Must have involved a very hefty current flow.

as well as the following fuses: clock fuse and RH fan relay in the engine fuseblock and the following fuses in the kick panel fuseblock: EGI unit/AT unit, Cruise/ABS, Meter/SRS lamp, and Illumi.

***** Very strange. Must involve a short or heavy load connected in parallel with all these circuits. Damn strange indeed! Hmmm? All in the kick panel fuse block. Wonder if they are mechanically located such that something could bridge all of there connections??

I have replaced all fuses with the proper replacements, and I made another fusible link with fusible link wire I bought at the auto parts store. The battery has been checked and is good. I have a new alternator and all looks good with the basics of the charging system (14.55 volts measured at the battery with the car running).

***** It would appear that the original fault has now been cleared, but how ?? Therefore was the alternator the original problem? If so why did the alternator fuse not open/blow by way of protection. Was horrible damn up grade wiring by passing the fuse ????? ANSWER REGARDING THIS REQUIRED.
BUT ----- If this was the original fault, why all the subsequent damage????? Could the now remaining faults have been caused inadvertently, through heavy handed fault finding errors in respect of the original fault ???? ANSWER REQUIRED.

I'm still having the following issues: blinkers and hazard lights will come on but not blink, passenger side door lock actuator stuck in locked position and I can hear the relay trip behind the passenger side dash when I try to use the locks from the driver's side, the air bag and ABS lights are on the dash,

***** This could indicate a possible sneak circuit, or subsequent damage during fault finding as suggested above.

and I have no cruise control because it blows the fuse whenever I try to replace it. I found it interesting that I am getting 14 volts from the empty cruise control fuse socket with the car on.

***** There must be a short circuit or heavy overload within the cruise control circuitry, but how does this effect the other US circuits. Hmmm, are they negative leg switched?? Voltage at input side of fuse socket normal.


I've looked at my grounds and have done some other basic checking, but have refrained from tearing into the wiring system too much.

***** For goodness sake do not TEAR into anything! Faulty ground connections can not cause fuses which are in positive lines to blow. A ground wire would have to be part of a short circuit but this is possible, particularly if located within a loom.

I have a Suby Chiltons manual (little use I know). Do you guys think I should break down and get the 1 year Alldata membership so I can see some wiring schematics?

***** Will not assist at this stage.

Anyway, I hope to look into this further this weekend, but with 2 jobs and a girlfriends we'll see what time alots. Oh well, at least she's back on the road.

***** I hope that this means that there is no call for panic.

Cheers,

-Dave
__________

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[Earthworm]

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