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  #1  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:10 AM
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Changing brakes

I have my car up on jack stands, and trying to get my calipars off. The bolts that hold them on seem to be frozen solid. Due to limited space i can only get a 1ft braker bar in, my ratchets are pretty short, so not much help there. I don't have a 17mm box wrench either. I have them soaked with kroil right noww. If anyone has any suggestions that might help it would be greatly appricated. THanks.
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  #2  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:51 AM
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If you're on the ground, facing the rotor, it's clockwise to loosen. Other than that, you need to believe. If it's going to break, nothing to be done, but break it. Once the rotor is off it can be drilled and tapped. Good luck!
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  #3  
Old 04-14-2007, 09:57 AM
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Calipar off! 3 wratches and 2 braker bars later, i must admit subaru uses qualityparts. I would have thought the bolt would have died long before the tools i use. 2 craftsman wratches the guts stripped, 1 the part of the wratchet the socket connects to sheared. I broke one right-angle braker bar, but the 4th wratchet and 2nd braker bar got the job done. The bolts looked like they hadn't been touched, not a single nick.

As far as getting the rotor off, rubber mallet and flat head screwdriver do it?
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:05 AM
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Rubber only if you're reusing the rotors. The fronts have two bolt holes to force the rotor off the hub. I don't recall anything safe to pry against.
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  #5  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaySVX
As far as getting the rotor off, rubber mallet and flat head screwdriver do it?
If you are replacing the rotors, then nothing beats a Big Fuji Hammer.
Like a dead blow hammer.
Most SVX rotors have two tapped holes in them.
If so run a 8X1.25 screw into them to push the rotor out.
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  #6  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxfiles
If you are replacing the rotors, then nothing beats a Big Fuji Hammer.
Like a dead blow hammer.
Most SVX rotors have two tapped holes in them.
If so run a 8X1.25 screw into them to push the rotor out.
That is what I have done in the past. I have also put some pressure on the rotors using the bolts and sprayed it with PB Blaster to help break it loose.
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  #7  
Old 04-14-2007, 10:47 AM
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Got it off no problem, just tapped it 1-2 times with rubber hammer, quarter rotation, same thing, until it came off. Happened to have a 4"x1.5" steel piece that i could put in and get a c clamp to push the pistons back in. Not much room for error, it was quite a tight fit. One tire done, 3 to go. Thanks for advice.
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  #8  
Old 04-14-2007, 12:52 PM
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On the rear calipars, i've got the rotor changed out, and the piston recessed and the new pads loaded, but i can't seem to get the pads lined up properly to fit onto the rotor. The piece that slides back and forth on the calipar doesn't seem to want to move, it needs to go in so that the pads line up with the rotor. Any suggestions?
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  #9  
Old 04-14-2007, 02:18 PM
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Best way is to remount the caliper and bracket w/o the pads. Then take out the top bolt that attachs the caliper to the bracket. The caliper should swing away. Load the pads into the bracket, right against the rotor, then swing the caliper back in and reattach the bolt.

Somewhere in here, make sure that the caliper moves freely on the bolts that attach it to the bracket. This is critical for proper functioning. If it doesn't only one pad will do any work, you won't stop well and that pad will wear quickly. If the bolts are rusted, you might be able to clean them up and grease them, but I'd just replace them.

Last edited by cdvs; 04-14-2007 at 02:20 PM.
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  #10  
Old 04-14-2007, 02:42 PM
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I had to put it back together for the day with the old pads and rotors, as i couldn't figure out how to get it to work properly, and my time ran out for the day. Hopefully next weekend at reading someone will be able to assist me in getting htem on properly, i tried everything to get it on but nothing moving. You mentioned a bolt. Did you mean the bolt that holds the calipars on? I removed them and got the new pads loaded without any issues. I just couldn't get that bracket piece that holds the pads to mvoe back or forth.
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Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!!

Last edited by JaySVX; 04-14-2007 at 02:45 PM.
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  #11  
Old 04-14-2007, 04:02 PM
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The bracket is what is held onto the hub. There are 2 bolts that that hold the caliper to the bracket. The caliper needs to slide on these bolts. If the caliper doesn't move in relation to the bracket, you have to free it up. You will need to remove these bolts and clean them up or replace them.
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  #12  
Old 04-14-2007, 04:18 PM
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Make sure the top pin is clean so it can work properly.
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  #13  
Old 04-14-2007, 04:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvs
...There are 2 bolts that that hold the caliper to the bracket. ...
Actually there is a bolt on the bottom and a slider pin on the top. Once you remove the bottom bolt, you can hinge the caliper away from the bracket to access the pads and then slide the caliper off of the pin to completely remove the caliper from the bracket.
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  #14  
Old 04-14-2007, 05:37 PM
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Interesting. I saw that one side of the slide rhad a bolt and one side did not, and i wasn't sure about it, but i had never seen that setup before. I was unable to slide it back and forth but left that bolt alone. Free 6pack at reading to he who's willing to help me finish it there! have all parts and tools. Should i bring a canopy to reading?
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  #15  
Old 04-14-2007, 08:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JaySVX
Bla, bla, bla, bla, bla, bla, bla, bla, bla, bla, . Free 6pack at reading to he who's willing to help me finish it there! have all parts and tools. Should i bring a canopy to reading?
DUDE!!!!!

See you there!
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