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  #1  
Old 04-09-2007, 05:10 PM
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Radiator Repairs

I have noted many instances of radiators being replaced purely because of a split/cracked top tank.

This was a recent problem which resulted in my SVX letting me, or in to be exact my wife down, for the first time in eight years of daily motoring.

Several radiator specialists offered a new OEM radiator, a replacement custom made alloy top tank or a new custom made alloy radiator. All very veryexpensive options.

I went to a plastic repair specialist and the tank was welded for the huge sum of NZ$20,00. The fracture was welded closed, overlaid with extra material, then reinforced with fiberglass tape impregnated with weld.

The crack of about five inches in length, was across the internal angle formed at the front of the tank, where a flange is formed to provide a flat surface for crimping to the the metal core. This is an obvious weak point, subject to vibration stresses, originating from the flexibly mounted engine and passed via the top hose. The area is now reinforced and I beieve better than when new.

The tank could have been welded while in the car, but I chose to remove the radiator as the traveling distance involved, could have meant overheating the engine.

When the car overheated while my wife was driving, it would appear that the ECU shut things down. She had noticed heat and had observed the temperature gauge in the red, just before this happened. She said it was if the ignition had been turned off and there was no indication of anything tightening up. I have not seen this feature documented and wonder if anyone can confirm it as a being safety measure?


P.S. ---- N.B. I am advised that the tank is of a Nylon matereial and a special plastic welding rod is used together with a special hot air gun. The result is a fused joint much as with a metal weld. This is no way a stick on fix and is permanent.

I reason that the crack has in fact relieved what was a previous stress point in the tank by opening up. Therefore the repair should correct an existing problem. Special attemntion shoiuld be paid in respect of the flexibility of the top readiator hose, for obvious reasons.
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Last edited by Trevor; 04-11-2007 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 04-10-2007, 03:03 PM
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TomsSVX TomsSVX is offline
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Maybe there is an ignition cut when the temp rises too high... I never allowed any of my cars to get that high if it was overheating though... I hope there is no serious damage and that your heads and block remain true.

On the welded radiator note... I had plastic welded my old radiator in my ebony when it had a crack... I cut away the plastic aroudn the crack and started with good material to start with... Laid a bead in the channel I had cut. I then laid beads on both sides of this one for reinforcement. It held up well until it broke again. It turns out the head gaskets didn't fix my problem and the head was warped(im an ass for not having it machined I know ) If the head had been good, I would have forseen this as a perminent fix, or until it cracked somewhere else(****ty end tanks). Thats why I opted for the all aluminum rads from there on out

Tom
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Old 04-10-2007, 04:57 PM
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Thanks Tom,

There was no damage to the engine as the excessive temperature was noticed and the engine cut out. It does appear that the ECU is set up to include this safety feature, but I am unable to confirm this as fact. More information will certainly be of interest.

All the best with your projects. Cheers Trevor
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Old 05-21-2007, 02:45 PM
Laxes Laxes is offline
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I just noticed today that i have a similar crack on the top of the radiator tank, when steam started to pour out from underneath my hood. It is a very small leak but i guess i was driving long enough to cause enough pressure to build up that my tiny crack became a gusher. I was about ready to go into a radiator shop to get it looked at today when i saw your post. Just wondering where you would find a plastic welder to fix that? Is it a DIY job, or should i leave it to a professional? Seems to me that that the top of the radiator is just poorly engineered.
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Old 05-21-2007, 04:22 PM
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Unfortunately the repair in my case did not last and another crack developed alongside the weld. When I removed the radiator a second time the top connection tube broke up along the edge showing that the plastic had deteriorated over time and with heat. Sadly I can no longer recommend welding as a fix.

As mentioned in another post, I have since had an alluminium top tank fabricated and fitted by a local radiator shop, one of several, here in Aucklnad New Zealand, who offer this service,. My radiator is now better than new.

It has surprised me that this option has not been taken up in your part of the world, given the prices quoted for new radiators. The tank replacement cost me, in your money, approximately $150-00.
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Old 05-21-2007, 04:38 PM
cdvs cdvs is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
...It has surprised me that this option has not been taken up in your part of the world, given the prices quoted for new radiators. The tank replacement cost me, in your money, approximately $150-00.
Well, we can get new ones for about $150 and shipping. Twenty years ago one could choose which radiator shop to get a repair done. The only shops I know that do this work now are exclusive to big trucks and equipment.
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Old 05-21-2007, 05:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvs
Well, we can get new ones for about $150 and shipping. Twenty years ago one could choose which radiator shop to get a repair done. The only shops I know that do this work now are exclusive to big trucks and equipment.
$150. From where and what is the final landed and delivered cost.?
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Old 05-21-2007, 06:08 PM
cdvs cdvs is offline
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Do a search on ebay motors/parts for SVX Radiator. There are choices.

I'm not an importer or exporter, I've no idea what your 'landed and delivered' cost would be. To US, like I said, $150 + about $20 shipping.
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Old 05-21-2007, 06:58 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvs
Do a search on ebay motors/parts for SVX Radiator. There are choices.

I'm not an importer or exporter, I've no idea what your 'landed and delivered' cost would be. To US, like I said, $150 + about $20 shipping.
I now see that they are available within the US and shipping infers local surface delivery. As they are on ebay, does this indicate that they are used/second hand.?
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Old 05-21-2007, 07:15 PM
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Those I was referring to are new. I did see one that was used as well.
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Old 05-21-2007, 07:40 PM
STORMINORMAN STORMINORMAN is offline
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Thumbs up Do SEARCH on radiator repairs...

...as a simple crack on the top CAN usually be successfully repaired with JB Weld or the green (needs to be "kneaded") radiator repair putty.

The key is to use a Dremel and drill holes at each end of the crack so it doesn't get longer, then use the tool to enlarge the crack itself to about
1/8th inch: that way the repair goop can "mushroom" on the interior side. You also want to wipe the plastic with acetone or some other solvent to get a good bonding surface for the goop the seal. Let it get good and dry 1st.

You can then add a second layer on the top.

Good luck!
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  #12  
Old 05-22-2007, 01:12 AM
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In my case the weld was perfect and reinforced with fibreglass tape. A second crack opened up alongside the welded original fault. The plastic tank was obviously deteriorating. There is no way I would now accept this as a permanent, reliable repair.
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Old 05-25-2007, 08:51 AM
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Yes, the same thing happened to both of our cars. We were advised not to have it welded, and both had to get new (AL) top caps fitted. Sounds like yours was a bit cheaper though...

Matt
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