Duty solenoid C replaced, but still have the code

[FM977]

I replaced my duty solenoid c but still get the 16 power light flashes. I pulled the code and get duty solenoid C after resetting everything. I don't have binding but the car feels like it's in full time 4wd. It also rocks back and forth after shutting the engine off from park and clunks very loudly when shifting from D to R on a steep slope. Can someone who's knowledgeable and isn't a smart-ass kid punk please help me out here? I'm stumped.

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by FM977

I replaced my duty solenoid c but still get the 16 power light flashes. I pulled the code and get duty solenoid C after resetting everything. I don't have binding but the car feels like it's in full time 4wd. It also rocks back and forth after shutting the engine off from park and clunks very loudly when shifting from D to R on a steep slope. Can someone who's knowledgeable and isn't a smart-ass kid punk please help me out here? I'm stumped.

Gee I don't know if I am old enough to answer this, but I'll give it a go, just be easy on me.

Your discription does sound like the solenoid is not opening, to keep it in 4WD.

If you are getting a code for the C solenoid, then it means that there is a short, or open, in the wiring to the solenoid, or the armature in the solenoid is not responding to the duty cycle signal.

As the solenoid is new, we can discount the last one and just look at the first two. The wire to the solenoid may be jamed between the cases, or it was not plugged in when it was fitted.

Harvey.

[FM977]

Thanks for this information. Do you know where I should look for a short and where the wire is? Is it hard to get to?

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by FM977

Thanks for this information. Do you know where I should look for a short and where the wire is? Is it hard to get to?

To be sure of what you are looking for, you need to check the wire to the solenoid with a meter. There is a plug on the LHS of the box that has the wires to the solenoids.
Pull the plug apart and check the Green/Red stripe wire to the box with the meter set on OHMS. You should get a reading of ~12 Ohms if the wire is connected to the solenoid. If it is a high resistance (wire open), the plug inside the box may be apart, or was not plugged in, when the rear of the box was fitted.
If you get zero resistance the wire is jammed between the rear case and the box case.

You can see the solenoid and the plug to it, on the left bottom of this diag.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/oab_au/3097.JPG

Harvey.

[Chuckls]

Since you included the smart ass punk comment, I felt compelled to post in here.

Here, have some spiders!

[FM977]

Originally Posted by oab_au

To be sure of what you are looking for, you need to check the wire to the solenoid with a meter. There is a plug on the LHS of the box that has the wires to the solenoids.
Pull the plug apart and check the Green/Red stripe wire to the box with the meter set on OHMS. You should get a reading of ~12 Ohms if the wire is connected to the solenoid. If it is a high resistance (wire open), the plug inside the box may be apart, or was not plugged in, when the rear of the box was fitted.
If you get zero resistance the wire is jammed between the rear case and the box case.

You can see the solenoid and the plug to it, on the left bottom of this diag.
http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/files/oab_au/3097.JPG

Harvey.

If the FWD fuse fixes the problem, is it still likely a short in the wiring?

Thanks

[FM977]

I see a connector on the left side of the engine bay and a wire that runs down behind the front left axel. Is that the one that goes to the solenoid that you'd like me to check?