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#16
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also i ve noticed that we have 2 cyllinders to push breakpad against the break disk (or rotor, whatever u call it there) on front breaking system.
in my case second cyllinders (both sides) almost dont work, ie almost dont move can it be the problem? |
#17
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Hi Sergi,
1st an apology. I hadn't looked where you are from. Our pilgrim cousins have strange names for some car parts and I sometimes use those names to save confusing them. How did you check the piston movement? Was the caliper off? were the pads out? or just 'as is'?
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Andy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ If I would be a young man again and had to decide how to make my living, I would not try to become a scientist or scholar or teacher. I would rather choose to be a plumber or a peddler in the hope to find that modest degree of independence still available under present circumstances. -- Albert Einstein, The Reporter, November 18 1954 |
#18
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oh i did it a while ago when i changed break pads, i think it was 4 months ago. i took callipers out, and yeah second piston was stuck, so i pushed it in and out (locked other piston so whole pressure was for second, stuck, piston) so i made em move abit, cleaned the rust, added some grease , and eventually made second pistons move. But still they were not working as the first ones.
but when i break it feels like one side breaks harder then another, then another breaks harder then first one. and so on. |
#19
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1st thing you need to do is get your calipers working properly. You may have warped discs, but without decent calipers it will be hard to make progress.
Trevor lives in your neck of the woods, he may be able to help.
__________________
Andy ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ If I would be a young man again and had to decide how to make my living, I would not try to become a scientist or scholar or teacher. I would rather choose to be a plumber or a peddler in the hope to find that modest degree of independence still available under present circumstances. -- Albert Einstein, The Reporter, November 18 1954 |
#20
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well what is defined but working properly
its the first car of such class i have so wont have a clue how 2 pistons should work anyways whole problem comes from 1 side.. left side i can assume that its curb side (New Zealand!!) so something can be damaged there but hell knows i checked visually, everything seems ok... oh yup, the caliper holds the break pads.. how tight should it be? coz i can move the caliper bit up and down (all 4 on 4 break disks) should it be like that? think when i break they should get tight and dont move up and down... ill swap the wheels tomorro to see if its wheel balancing problem but i doubt |
#21
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Tell me if I got this right. You drive down the road at "whatever" speed, & all's fine. You hit the brakes at speeds over "whatever", & you get a shimmy. If so, it's the rotors. They're warped permanently. I lived with this for two years. When time for new brake pads, we installed new rotors. No more shimmy when braking. Life is good.
Ron.
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Good s**t happened. 69 was worth the wait. '92 stock semi-pristine ebony - 160K '96 Grand Caravan - 240K '01 Miata SE - 79K '07 Chrysler Pacifica - 60k - future money pit. |
#22
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well
seems like it still shakes abit when i drive at 120hmh+ but its really noticable when i break. ok it was not the lug nuts tightning - checked that. plus i did some testing and found out it was left front side for sure then i lifted the left front wheel, and tried to move it as i tried to turn the wheel left/right, and it seemed to be bit loose, i could rotate the wheel by hmm 1 degree, not more. i mean it was loose. so if i drive fast then this might be noticeble? so what can be lose there? steering rack ball joint? (not sure if it excist but i think its what failed me WOF) but they showed me the other side which seemed ok for me... p.s car done almost 300,000 kms, so i bet rotors are screwed as well, but everything was sweet as when i boutght the car 5 months ago |
#23
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You could be experiencing a couple of unrelated problems. The shimmy upon braking is usually a rotor thing. A shimmy at 120 KPH is likely a tire balance problem. Firstly, I'd work on the balance issue. Rotate the tires front to back & see if there's any difference. If there is, get all four tires rebalanced. If there's still a shimmy, perhaps you've got a bent rim. A decent tire (tyre) store should be able to diagnose everything at a reasonable cost.
Ron.
__________________
Good s**t happened. 69 was worth the wait. '92 stock semi-pristine ebony - 160K '96 Grand Caravan - 240K '01 Miata SE - 79K '07 Chrysler Pacifica - 60k - future money pit. |
#24
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ok i swapped tyres today, front and back, seems like its all the same
plus its second set of wheels i have on SVX and same problem so seems like its not wheel balancing problem ok i lifted up my mums car (primera) and tried to rotate the wheel nothing is loose, plus calippers are tight but wheel can rotate freely so seems like 300,000 kms make thigs to appear bit loose anyways 2 posts above, any ideas what is loose and how to fix? cheers |
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