Lsvx-t

[Blacky]

Very nice setup. I didn't know the Wilwood's mounted that way.

[svxnavyvet]

Tom nice work.
could you post part numbers for us please?
Jim

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by svxnavyvet

Tom nice work.
could you post part numbers for us please?
Jim

It's an off the shelf kit from wilwood. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-12875

Will also require replacing the studs with shorter ones p/n 230-9078. Will require 4 new studs. I don't think there is a way around having to shave down the brackets but anyone with a grinder can do it so it's not hard. I would love to have used a mill to cut it properly but alas, my garage is not equiped with such luxuries. I will try to follow up with measurements of how much material needs to be trimmed when I finish the other side.

Tom

[svxnavyvet]

Thanks I have a mill big enough for this.
beets replacing the backing plate

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

It's an off the shelf kit from wilwood. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/wil-140-12875

Will also require replacing the studs with shorter ones p/n 230-9078. Will require 4 new studs. I don't think there is a way around having to shave down the brackets but anyone with a grinder can do it so it's not hard. I would love to have used a mill to cut it properly but alas, my garage is not equiped with such luxuries. I will try to follow up with measurements of how much material needs to be trimmed when I finish the other side.

Tom

[TomsSVX]

So, kind of came up with a better way to trim the brackets which I will document in the following set of pictures and instructions. Primary issue is that the brackets are meant for a tighter mounting radius. While the bolt holes are perfectly spaced apart from the other their mounting radius is roughly 13mm further away from the center of the hub. Doing my initial research I found the 13" and 14" wilwood kits were only different by the rotor size and the use of two 13mm spacers used to increase rotor size roughly 1" in diameter. That means the removal of the spacers would allow the correct radius for the 13" brackets to work with the 14" rotors. Now the 14" kit comes with 3.25" mounting studs preinstalled in the brackets. These are far too long for the application without using spacers so the additional 2.5" studs that are meant to be used with the 13" brackets will need to be ordered in addition to the 14" kit. Part numbers will be listed at the bottom of this little write up. Anyone with access to a proper mill can laugh at my work all they want, don't really care.

The brackets as they come in the 14" kit are pictured below


The corners of the brackets need a radius of material removed to clear the inside of the roto that overlaps it. The easy way to do this is to place the unmounted rotor (no hat) over top of the bracket. I oriented them so that the outer edge of the brackets were intersecting with the inner diameter of the rotor. As seen below


Then scribe the inner radius of the rotor to the brackets as shown below


I set up a small router milling bit into my router as seen below. Wood bits work well since brackets are made of aluminum


Set the depth to 9mm


Slowly trim away material (safety glasses very important) using the router until you meet the scribe line drawn earlier. It should look like this


Paint or refinish to preference and complete the assembly instructions provided by wilwood and once the rotor is mounted, it should have a clearance that looks like the following


Hope this helps. Please ask any questions if I missed something

Wilwood 14" brake kit p/n 140-12875
Wilwood replacement studs p/n 230-9078

Tom

[TomsSVX]

For anyone curious about the rears. I have swapped in a complete Nissan 350z rear subframe. So I was able to use a complete no fuss bolt in kit



Tom

[Silverback]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

For anyone curious about the rears. I have swapped in a complete Nissan 350z rear subframe. So I was able to use a complete no fuss bolt in kit

Tom

How much work was it to fit that 350z rear subframe?

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Silverback

How much work was it to fit that 350z rear subframe?

Well it wasn't incredibly hard per say but I did have to remove the factory fuel tank and already planned on a custom driveshaft. To do it in an otherwise stockish svx would be a huge waste of time and $. If you want to upgrade rear brakes on stock rear suspension just swap out the backing plates for sti ones and use whatever kits are available for an sti I would think.

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Update on the front brackets. After trimming and painting. Got everything reinstalled with the correct studs and it's a perfect fit! Now to work on connecting the lines but I want to get safety wire on the rotor bolts before I button up the brakes. I will return my focus to wiring for the foreseeable future

Tom

[Silverback]

Originally Posted by TomsSVX

Well it wasn't incredibly hard per say but I did have to remove the factory fuel tank and already planned on a custom driveshaft. To do it in an otherwise stockish svx would be a huge waste of time and $. If you want to upgrade rear brakes on stock rear suspension just swap out the backing plates for sti ones and use whatever kits are available for an sti I would think.

Tom

Thanks for your response, I was thinking more about using the r200 rear diff for rwd. I don't trust the r160 or r180 for those duties.
I was also trying to find a way to run a bellhousing adaptor for a cd009 to complete the reliable rwd setup

[TomsSVX]

Been a while since I have had an update. Got some used rotas that'll be good for street tires. More or less wanted something cheap to put the car on the ground with. I am still in desperate need of headlights and corner lights so I can finish up my wiring up front. I've got my light controller mocked up with the tails and front harness almost done. Got some exhaust parts coming. Going to try and run a single 3.5" pipe to a pair of 2.5" tail pipes out the back. As of right now. Will start with straight pipes for now and maybe add some shorty mufflers if it's too loud. More to come!




Tom

[TomsSVX]

So I was able to finish up my light wiring and verify my rear lights working well. I still need to make the headlight harness but I confirmed my chassis harness has all the right things in all the right places. I also got a chance to install my 5v power source and pwm controller for my alternator. Dialed it in and now I am charging at about 14.7 which makes me happy 😁.

Still waiting on my wheel hardware before I can even attempt to move the car which I would like to do as my garage is a hot mess and I would very much like to clean up before moving forward with more work.





Tom

[TomsSVX]

Originally Posted by Silverback

Thanks for your response, I was thinking more about using the r200 rear diff for rwd. I don't trust the r160 or r180 for those duties.
I was also trying to find a way to run a bellhousing adaptor for a cd009 to complete the reliable rwd setup

Sorry just saw this. If you want to go rwd just use a brz trans. If u want a cd009 might as well get rid of the eg33 while you are at it. That engine needs attention and there are several more engines you can make fit and make more power and be more reliable

Tom

[TomsSVX]

Got my rings and lugnuts today so I did a thing.







Moved under its own power for the first time!! Just circled my culdesac and never shifted out of first but hey. It's getting there

Tom

[irox]

Hey Tom,

fantastic job so far!

About your search for lights, I might have an old set in storage I'd give you. They are in ok condition, the car they came from (my previous SVX) had taken a bump on the front at some point, so if I remember correctly there were some tabs cracked (may be missing a level gauge), but they still bolt in and work. I'll see if I can find them this week (probably in storage) and take a pic. Unfortunately I don't have side lights.

Cheers!
Ian.